WARSAW

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WARSAW April - May 2007

Saska Kępa Warsaw’s right bank

Gone but not Forgotten Buildings of the past

N°38 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT) www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1641-5264

CONTENTS

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

5

Download mini-guides to Poland: www.inyourpocket.com

Contents Property

12

The Basics

14

Getting to grips with Warsaw

Culture & Events

16

Concert listings

Where to stay

19

To suit all pockets

Dining & Nightlife

30

The highs and lows

Nightlife

61

Bars, Clubs, Vice, Advice

Sightseeing What to see Check out the highlights

71

Cover story On this issues cover is the Monte Cassino Monument found on ul. Długa 62. Wonder why th ere’s an 8.5 metre monument to a small Italian town in the centre of Warsaw? In 1943 the Allied Saska Kępa push on Rome was stopped Gone but not Forgotten sh or t by stu b born resistance at the Gustav Line, a system of German fortifications with its hear t in Monte Cassino. The Allies launched their attack in January 1944 and fought for months without making significant gains. Then on May 12, 1944 the Polish Corps entered the fray, and after six days of fighting the Plosh flag flew over the ruins of Monte Cassino Monastrey. The Gustav Line was broken, and the road to Rome opened. For the full story see page 75.

Saska Kępa, playground of the powerful, stands out as one of Warsaw’s most engaging districts, not to say eccentric. Explore it with In Your Pocket on page 8.

Old Town Courtyards and a fine cathedral

80

Jewish Warsaw

81

Praga The other side of Warsaw

82

Warsaw Uprising

83

Wilanów

86

Nałęczów

88

Getting around

92

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

WARSAW

April - May 2007

N°38 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT) www.inyourpocket.com

From A-B

Mail & Phones

Warsaw’s right bank

Keep in touch

Buildings of the past

Directory Shopping Directory

97

99 104

ISSN 1641-5264

Maps & Index Street index City centre map City map Country map Index

107 109 110 112 114

April - May 2007

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FOREWORD Once described as the Paris of the East the only thing vaguely Parisien about modern day Warsaw are the numerous dog deposits that find themselves on the end of your shoe. To use other cities as a yardstick is a little unfair on Warsaw. This is a town that is barely 60 years old. Flattened in a Nazi fury the city had to rebuild from scratch, and only then under the handicap of having the Soviet Union breathing down its neck. As such its swirl of styles: you only have to visit Warsaw’s centerpiece, the hulking Palace of Culture to see for yourself; intricate socialist realist reliefs peer from stone walls while not two hundred metres away you’ll find daring new skyscrapers, buildings still bullet scarred from the war, grim tower blocks slapped up in the 1960s and tin huts selling kebabs. And then, squashed into the northern fringe of the city, Old Town, painstakingly reconstructed using original architects sketches centuries old. This is a city with no rhyme or rhythm. Everything appears in jarring contrast, from the tramps picking burgers out of bins to the Escada clad blondes who clip clop past them. This is not a city to love at first sight, but one that requires patience. What appears to be little more than a concrete and neon whirl at the start turns out to be one of Europe’s most exhilarating places, bursting with distractions of every kind; from cultural to nocturnal. It’s come a long way in a short time, and there’s no better time to see it than spring, when Warsaw emerges from its Stygian like winter gloom. Enjoy it. As always we welcome comments and criticism. Get in touch with our editorial department at [email protected], or [email protected] with any commercial enquiries. Have a cracking time.

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S In Your Pocket Poland ul. Żurawia 6/12 (room 315) 00-503 Warszawa, Poland tel. 022 420 34 00 tel./fax 022 420 34 01 [email protected] www.inyourpocket.com

Europe In Your Pocket

Much has been happening at In Your Pocket since our last issue, not least the launch in February of our new-look website at www.inyourpocket. com, packed with new features and even easier to use than before. We also recently became the first publisher to produce a city guide to the exciting Bulgarian mountain resort of Bansko, while elsewhere research and writing continue ahead of an early-summer launch for guides to Katowice (Poland), Kaliningrad (Russia) and Minsk (Belarus). The full In Your Pocket range is available to buy online, at http://clickandbuy. inyourpocket.com.

Editorial

Copyright notice

Editor-in-chief (Poland) Alex Webber Assistant Editor Zuzanna Ananiew Contributor Sco Research Agnieszka Łopuska, Karolina Montygierd-Łojbo, Aleksandra Olszewska Design Tomáš Haman Photography Agnieszka Pagińska, Lena Wachacka, Sco Cover Sco

Text and photos copyright WIYP Sp. z o.o. 1999-2007. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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Basia Olszewska WIYP Sp. z o.o. ul. Paderewskiego 1, 81-831 Sopot 058 555 08 31 Printing CGS Published 25,000 copies, 6 times per year

Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM Rynek Główny 6, Szara Kamienica 31-042 Kraków tel./fax 012 421 24 48 [email protected]

Warsaw In Your Pocket

Maps

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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SASKA KĘPA Set on Warsaw’s right bank Saska Kępa is Warsaw’s sexiest district, home of the rich, the powerful, the artists and the intellegentsia. You won’t see many rusty Maluch’s gasping around the streets, here it’s all embassy cars with blacked out windows, pristine streets and a nutty collage of architectural styles that range from 19th century manor houses to classic 30s to bland Cold War tower blocks. First settled by Dutch farmers in 1628, the following century saw it become the hunting ground of choice for Warsaw’s nobility, though it was not just wild beasts on the agenda – it was in the palaces of Saska Kępa that the aristocracy would conduct their frivolous affairs with the local maidens. By the 19th century it emerged as a favourite weekend destination with the bourgeoisie classes, who would sail across to enjoy the bowling alleys, shooting ranges and fairground attractions that had by now sprung up. But it was not until the beginning of the 20th century that the district really took off. The inter-war years saw a particularly intense period of development as the monied classes flocked across the river to what had become Warsaw’s best piece of real estate. After the war the communist authorities attempted to keep an eye on the middle classes as well as the embassies, building concrete horrors to house members of the militia and secret police. In fact, Władysław Gomułka – the first secretary of the United Polish Workers Party (1955 – 1964) – liked the area so much he lived here, in a flat on ul. Saska 109. A plaque commemorating his presence since taken down following persistent vandalism. Crossing from Poniatowskiego Bridge your first taste of Saska will be Rondo Waszyngtona, officially re-christened as such in 2000. While the rest of Saska Kępa enjoys a reputation for its serenity this is anything but. Rondo Waszyngtona is battlefield of tramlines and concrete subways, always buzzing with people laden with plastic bags making their way to and from Poland’s most famous market. The environs of the crumbling Stadion Dziesięciolecia are now home to Europe’s largest outdoor bazaar and rate as Warsaw’s most absurd attraction. Originally built in the 1950s on top of WWII rubble the oval shaped open air arena became the national football stadium and frequently drew capacity crowds of 70,000, and occasionally much more for official state parades and festivals. It was in front of a crowd of 100,000 that Ryszard Siwiec set himself ablaze in 1968 in protest at the Soviet led invasion of Czechoslovakia. Posthumously awarded the Order of Polonia Restituta a plaque today commemorates his act. By the 1980s the stadium was left to fall into disrepair and it was only the fall of the Iron Curtain that signalled its rebirth. Rented out by the city to a group called Jamark Europa the stadium emerged to become the focus of thousands of traders from Poland’s eastern borders, hence its popular tag ‘The Russian Market’. Now the Russians – and the guns they sold – have all but gone, replaced instead by hawkers from Vietnam, Nigeria and other far flung destinations. Although it’s clothes, including some hilarious counterfeit designer attempts, that take up the bulk of the market, it’s still possible to pick up some treasures including Soviet militar y medals, pirated CDs featuring Bulgarian bonus tracks, bootleg ged

Warsaw In Your Pocket

cigaret tes and electrical devices that go boom the moment th ey’re plugged in – great Christmas gi fts, the lot. Although you’ll find numerous police milling around do be on guard for pickpockets, and seein g that not all these hatchet faced traders are completely legal its best not to start pointing cameras into strange faces. Indeed, this remains the main point for black market activity in Poland, with over 30,000 traders prosecuted since the market began. It’s a cultural experience that can’t be missed, though you will do if you don’t get here soon. As part of Poland’s bid to host the 2012 European Football Championship the government has promised to build a new 70,000 all-seater national stadium with this site earmarked for that honour. Plans also include the development of a new subway link, an Olympic swimming pool, hotel and conference facility. Work on this glittering new stadium complex will begin later this year, so in the meantime catch the market in its death throes operating from dawn until mid-afternoon every day of the week. Next up on your Saska safari, cross al. Zieleniecka to hit Skaryszewski Park. This is one of the most beautiful in Warsaw, and also one of its most notorious thanks chiefly to its popularity with people who do odd things in bushes at night. Visit by day though and you’ll find a pleasant 55 hectare site filled with wide alleys originally designed for horse drawn carriages, artificial hills, waterfalls, lakes and flowerbeds. Originally founded in 1905 it first went under the name of Paderewski Park up until 1945. There are several points of interest including a monument commemorating allied pilots killed when their B24 bomber was shot down in 1944 while trying to supply insurgents fighting in the Warsaw Uprising. Only seven crew members survived and one of them, Henry Lloyd Lyne, unveiled the memorial in 1988. Refreshments can be found in the Miśianka café, a former public lavatory which now serves cracking homemade pierogi. To penetrate the heart of Saska take a walk down its principal high street, ulica Francuska, lined with low level housing, restaurants and private boutiques. Yet for all its village atmosphere - everywhere is ‘just down the road’, or ‘two minutes away’ - Saska has a surreal crossroads of the world atmosphere. Every street corner comes with arrows pointing in exotic directions: Yemen, Colombia, Iraq, Argentina. Welcome to embassy land. There’s 17 in total here, all occupying sinister looking villas complete with barred windows and twitching curtains. Although these nests of intrigue are all gated away you can do the next best thing and visit the butchers. Situated on the corner of ul. Meksykańska and ul. Wandy Le Diplomatique is Warsaw’s best meat market, run by a former Lebanese diplomat who had enough of the day job and traded it all in to sell hunks of lamb instead. But then Saska has never been short of quirky characters. Old timers recall one nutter back in the 70s who used to stand on the corner of Francuska and Zwyciężców for hours on end wearing nothing but nylon stockings and a sailor’s shirt and

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SASKA KĘPA cap. What became of him, no-one knows, though its unlikely he shared the grisly fate of Teresa Roszkowska. Poland’s first female stage designer was another well known Saska ‘character’, and never seen without odd makeup and three Pekinese dogs running wild. She met her end when she was murdered in her house on Zwyciężców in 1992. The district has always been traditionally home to Warsaw’s artists and bohema with other noted residents include poet Agnieszka Osiecka and sculptor Stanisław Sikora. A plaque on his house on Obrońców 28/30 commemorates Pablo Picasso’s passing visit, and the garden is home to numerous freaky statues and installations. This is by no means a closed community. Mix with modern day intellectuals at the artistic-literary salon run by journalist and camerawoman Małgorzata Bocheńska. Held each Thursday and Saturday at her house on ul. Saska 101 everyone is welcome for artsy discussion and complimentary bigos with the one rule being guests have to make their own tea. Sessions traditionally end at midnight with a waltz and past guests have numbered Paco Rabbane and jazz musicians Urszula Dudziak and Michał Urbaniak.

Where to eat There’s no shortage of restaurants and cafes in Saska, and they run the range from bank crisis expensive to two buttons cheap. Francuska, the main high street is the natural start point, and while a meal in Dom Polski (ul. Francuska 11) is no longer the pleasure it once was the garden remains as engaging as ever, no more so than when it’s in full bloom. If you can overlook the distinctly average food and top tier prices then by all means, head here. At the other end of the scale is Efes (ul. Francuska 1), arguably Poland’s premier kebab, and definitely our favourite. Either queue at the takeaway window, or practice patience inside while you wait for a table to be vacated. Close by discover one of Warsaw’s top tea rooms on Francuska 12. Decorated with lacework, oil paintings and dark woods Ganders is a revelation for tea aficionados, with dozens of herbal brews displayed in jars and containers, and a favourite with housewives primly dressed in Chanel. For sushi Tekeda on Francuska 16a originally pioneered the ‘fish floating by on boats’ idea in Warsaw, and isn’t a bad choice for those looking for an immediate raw fish fix. Next door is Sublimo, a charmingly tacky café/restaurant with signed photos of local celebs and a Mediterranean atmosphere, while for ice cream go nowhere else but Akwarium on Francuska 50. In other directions Maska on ul. Obrońców 12a is famous for it’s connections with the theatre world, as well as simple local dishes cooked to high standards. Filled with flowers and stage masks this is one of the top venues in the vicinity for drinking and dining and a firm favourite with local embassy workers. On the parallel street find Passe Partout (Zwyciężców 21), a cool effort with blond colours, sofa seating and an experimental menu that features dishes from across the world. The back garden is worth the visit alone. If you’re low on cash, and even if you’re not, visit the Budapest just across the road. It’s a basic space with clay coloured walls, strings of paprika and a cat pottering around, while the simple Hungarian dishes come piping hot and cooked just the way a grandmother would. Finally, no rundown of SK dining would be complete without a nod in the direction of Boathouse (see Where to eat), still one of Warsaw’s top restaurants after years in the business. The garden is the size of a field, with great views of downtown and proper protection against mosquitoes.

Warsaw In Your Pocket

Poniatowskiego Bridge Get to Saska by crossing Poniatowskiego Bridge, a grand structure that’s enjoyed an utterly calamitous existence: in less than one hundred years of being alive it’s seen a coup d’etat staged on it, been bombed twice, collapsed once and burnt down another time. Commissioned in 1904 the plans to build Warsaw’s third bridge met with widespread uproar from the start, with public figures like author Bolesław Prus slating it as a misappropriation of city funds. It took ten years for the bridge to be completed, and it was finally unveiled on January 6, 1914... just in time for WWI. Officially christened ‘The Bridge of our most Gracious Ruler, Tsar Nicholas II’ the 506 metre structure had been built using 6,000 tonnes of steel though that was soon to go up in smoke as retreating Russian troops dynamited the bridge in a bid to stem the German advance. The Germans made a patchwork attempt at rebuilding it but it burned down within a year and stood skeleton-like in the water for several years. In 1921 the newly independent Polish government decided to see if they could fare any better and rebuilt it over the course of the next five years, this time just as a political crisis was looming. With Poland on the brink of civil war the bridge served as a meeting point between the leaders of the two opposing factions (Marshal Piłsudski and President Wojciechowski) on May 12, 1926. Talks broke down and over the next three days 379 people died in fierce clashes before the government ceded power. Renamed to honour Polish aristocrat and military hero Prince Józef Poniatowski the bridge then underwent a complete aesthetic renaissance, with pavilions, lamps, turrets and flower baskets added. But it wasn’t long until Warsaw was under the swastika, and this time the Germans did a professional job on it, more or less demolishing it completely on September 13, 1944. After the war a hastily erected wooden structure was built on the surviving pillars but lasted a matter of months before falling into the Wisła, and it was not until 1946 that Poniatowskiego Bridge as we know it was reopened in a serious ceremony presided over by Bierut, Poland’s first communist leader. After years of being left to rot Poniatowskiego is now returning to its former glory, with many original details being added.

Lena Wachacka

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PROPERTY In the past second home buyers have tended to focus on sunshine destinations such as Spain and France, though recent trends show this is gradually changing. Poland in particular has enjoyed a boom in foreign interest, and the country has seen a large surge in European buyers lured by the promise of cheap prices and fast profits. Poland’s accession to the EU in 2004 further accelerated this trend and foreign property ownership is now far more common than one would expect. Poland’s fast growing capital city has seen a particular spurt of interest. Poland’s messy political situation, high unemployment figures and massive brain drain will not come as news to anyone with the vaguest sense of the world around them. With unemployment hovering at around 16.5% over a quarter of a million Poles have registered to work in the United Kingdom alone, with the magazine Polityka claiming that as many as a million have migrated to British shores. So why invest in Poland when the future looks so uncertain? Firstly the exodus of young Poles largely concerns those in low-skilled jobs, and analysts predict many will return once their cash has been made. Meanwhile, those in white collar positions are just as likely to locate to Poland’s burgeoning cities, such as Warsaw and Kraków. The glory days of making vast profits on property may have come to an end, but Warsaw still presents a very attractive investment opportunity. While you’ll be lucky to find a property that appreciates 20-30% in value per annum, Mike Judge of Polish Property, claims that an annual appreciation of 12% is still achievable. According to government sources the population of Warsaw could double in size by the year 2010. With salaries rising and people flocking to Warsaw Steve Doran of Capital Properties expects the growth in the real estate market to continue for a minimum of seven years, ‘Warsaw will still be the place to invest in as it grows as an international business centre, added to the fact a million people or more will relocate to Warsaw in the next five to ten years’. Conversion to the Euro (projected for 2010) is seen as a further economic kick. Tim Hill, the UK Operations Manager of Mamdom - relocation and property experts - is also optimistic for the future: ‘The gold rush will last a long time. Several factors will cause this. First off Poland has a GNI per capita of $5,820 compared to $25,270 in Germany, which is far too large a gap for neighbouring countries. Secondly only 14% of Poles have a mortgage – as more take them on property prices will rise. Finally increased tourism is a major contributing factor. The underlying economy and Poland’s geographical location make Poland a natural success story that the politicians would have to try very hard to stop. Poland represents an excellent long term investment. It is, however, time to think smarter and consider how the trailblazers who made so much out of Kraków think. In other words look for cities where there are improving air, rail and road links and have features such as attractive old towns. Lublin is a classic speculative choice in this regard as it’s a large city with a possible airport to come, 80,000 students and a location close to the Ukraine which may join the EU within the next ten years’. For the time being the message is clear: get in while you can.

The buying process According to John Naughton o f Krakow-based TNI Proper ties (w w w.tniproper ties.com) your first step will be to find a reputable broker, view and select a property: ‘Choose a solicitor and arrange a notary for the preliminary agreement. A foreigner will also require a licensed translator. The final agreement can be up to four weeks later. If the property is off-plan then a reservation

Warsaw In Your Pocket

is usually the first step followed by a preliminary in which the developer is awarded the building permit – the planning permission will be in place prior to the reservation. The final agreement will then be signed during the handing over of the keys. The bank will usually take care of the stage payments after the first 20% has been paid.’ Although Poland’s political situation remains volatile laws regarding taxation are not expected to change dramatically.

Facts & Figures, Pros & Cons According to Doran 95% of investors are looking for new builds, and as tempting as it may seem to buy a period residence bear in mind many properties will require renovation, which means futures costs. New developments, while lacking the obvious charm of older properties will provide owners with far fewer migraines. Much of Poland remains mired in paperwork, and while Doran claims the bureaucratic situation is no longer the nightmare it once was, buying a new property will mean much of the paperwork will be negated to the developer. Tim Hill recommends looking at properties dating from the 70s and 80s: ‘they’re solid and many have been, or will be, given a facelift. And when agreeing a sale price be clear what you expect it to include. In Poland many vendors assume you don’t want the kitchen, bathroom, flooring and other fittings if you don’t mention it to them. And immediately look at how you are going to transfer the funds as you can make costly mistakes with only small changes in the exchange rates.’ According to Naughton the biggest pratfall awaiting potential buyers comes in the shape of the ubiquitous pub pest who knows it all. ‘Always use a reputable broker with a license and a solicitor to represent you and check out the title deeds.’ Both Judge and Doran agree on the importance of finding a good solicitor, and all property companies will be able to recommend one. Expect to be paying approximately 1,000 Euro to a lawyer dealing on your behalf, and do consider handing him the power of attorney to sign documents on your behalf. Doran further advises for prospective buyers to only deal with known developers and to be aware of any monthly management fees. Rip-off scams are rare, but its imperative that buyers choose the right area. Proximity to a metro line is seen as important, or if you’re driving then make sure you have access to underground or guarded parking. Mokotów is seen as a favourite expat colony, while Wilanów more suited to families looking for detached housing. Those wishing to rent their property can expect yield of anything between 5-12%.

Sample prices In general expect to pay around €2,950 per square metre for an unfinished downtown property, and around €1,800 per square metre in an area like Mokotów. Immediately outside Warsaw €299,000 will buy you a three bed, two bath house (200m2) with garage, on a plot of 1,500m2 at the British-style Czarny Las development (www.czarny-las.pl).

Brokers Capital Properties www.capitalproperties.pl Mam Dom www.mamdom.com Polish Property www.polish-property.net

Centur y 21 Atlantis Real E state B - 3, ul. Swietokrzyska 32, tel. 022 654 21 21, www.c21atlantis. pl. Estate agents with an office in central Warsaw with offers ranging from flats to large developments.

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BASICS Facts & Figures Territory Poland spans 312,685km2 making it the ninth biggest country in Europe. Its borders stretch 3,582km (3,054km - land borders, 528km - sea borders) and it shares frontiers with seven countries: Russia (210km), Lithuania (103km), Belarus (416km), Ukraine (529km), Slovakia (539km), the Czech Republic (790km), and Germany (467km). Kraków is in the southeastern portion of Poland near the Czech and Slovak borders. Population Poland: 38,100,000 (2004) Warsaw: 1,689,000 (2003) Local Time Poland is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1). Twin Towns Astana, Berlin, Chicago, Düsseldorf, Hague, Hamamatsu, Hanoi, Kyiv, Moscow, Paris, Riga, Seoul, St. Petersburg, Taipei, Tel Aviv, Toronto, Vienna, Vilnius

Alcohol While Polish beer elicits mixed reports from the foreign community, Polish vodka stands alongside the best, and the country is rightfully seen as the ancient home of the wicked sauce. The elite brands are commonly accepted as being Chopin and Belvedere, though those who fancy themselves as connoisseurs of mixology should try swallowing a tatanka – a sweet blend of Żubrówka vodka (produced with a blade of bison grass in the bottle) and apple juice. Drunks hankering for something a little more fiery should look no further than ordering Mad Dog (Wściekły Pies) – a mix of vodka, Tabasco and raspberry juice; it’ll leave you seeing stars. One more to look for, and a specialty hailing from Gdańsk is Goldwasser – a sweetish vodka sprinkled with goldleaf. But stand warned: Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel. If you’re determined to make a prat of yourself then make sure it’s not in front of the law. A trip to Warsaw’s premier drunk tank (ul. Kolska 2/4) will set you back 250zł for a 15 hour stay. In return for your cash expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Those resisting arrest will find themselves strapped down to a bed, One Flew Over The Cuckoo’s Nest-style, and if you’re luck is really low you may find yourself having daylights beaten out of you by the guards. Refreshment comes in the form of limitless coffee, though the mug it comes in will smell of urine for a reason. Credit cards not accepted.

Customs If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take 10L of spirits, 90L of wine and 110L of beer. Most countries will not allow more than 200 cigarettes from Poland. A work of art produced before 1945 is classified as a ‘cultural good’ and must be authorised before it can leave the country. If the gallery or shop can’t supply the zaświadczenie (permission) when you buy the artwork, check with the Wojewódzki Konserwator Zabytków (Regional Curator’s Office). If a book was printed before 1945, you’ll need permission from the National Library to take it out of Poland.

www.inyourpocket.com Warsaw In Your Pocket

BASICS Flowers

Roads

Safety

As in much of Eastern Europe the giving of flowers comes with a sophisticated set of rules. Should you wish to stay on the right side of your lover, parents-in-law, etc pay heed to the following. Always give an odd number of flowers (or stems) unless the occasion is a solemn one. If visiting somebody with flowers be sure to remove the paper before you arrive. Decorative foil can be left on. Always give flowers with your left hand in order to shake or kiss the right hand of the recipient. Attention should also be paid to colour. If you’re proposing, then it’s red for your fiancée and pink for her mother. Pink flowers are also considered the most neutral, so when in doubt use those. Yellow is the colour of envy, chrysanthemums are for the dead and carnations remain unpopular, especially among women, due to their communist connotations. Good luck.

In general Warsaw is far safer than most Western cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets working tram and bus routes by the train station. If you’re in a bar or a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. The brevity and dexterity of Warsaw’s criminal community has led to a spate of thefts from unattended coats. Those travelling by car are advised to use a guarded car park. Robberies on overnight trains are not unheard of, especially on the routes connecting Warsaw with Prague and Berlin; book a couchette or a sleeper cabin. Avoid being ripped off by opportunistic taxi gits by using clearly marked cabs, something to bear in mind around the train station and airport. The officially sanctioned state company MPT (tel. 9191) is possibly the best bet, and their switchboard features English speaking operators. The vagrants and pondlife who gather around the train station are by in large harmless and easily ignored. Warsaw’s right bank has traditionally enjoyed something of a no-go reputation, though that is slowly fading; nonetheless avoiding the area around Wschodnia train station at night is wise.

Years of practice during the cold war era has meant that the Poles have truly mastered the art of the queue: more to the point, the art of queue barging. Whether you find yourself at a ticket counter, or your nearest KFC, do not make the mistake of being patient. ‘I’m late for something, can I go first’ is a common ploy used to fool foreigners into giving up their place in a line. Old people in particular seem to assume that they should by rights be able to take position at the head of a line. The only time when the common rules of etiquette seem to apply are in banks or outside ATMs, at which point the natives will assume a stance as far as possible from the next man, often leading to confusion who is and who isn’t queuing in the first place. Note that some municipal offices and post offices employ a ticket system to help organize queues.

Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, lanes unsuited to the volume of different traffic and, most of all, drivers who have no consideration for anybody else result in the common sight of mangled wreckages of cars around the country. Yes, the crosses you see beside roadsides are there to mark fatal crashes. Police seem unwilling to control irresponsible driving, and don’t be surprised to see cars shooting through red lights, cutting each other up and staking a claim for the Formula 1 championship. The road quality issue is being addressed with EU directives and funding but the size of the country’s road network as well as its condition means that it’ll be years till improvements will take effect. In fact the issue of the condition of the road and rail network are being cited by many experts as being a serious handicap to the development of the Polish economy. For someone taking to the road today the following warnings should be taken into account. Firstly when driving outside of built-up areas you will typically find yourself sharing a single lane road with anything from a sports car convertible to an old bloke in charge of a horse and cart. Throw in the huge fleet of lorries that traverse Poland and you will commonly find yourself in a situation where traffic is blocked behind said lorries/horse/tractor. This results in frustrated/impatient drivers overtaking each other at high speed and then braking sharply to avoid oncoming traffic. Be warned and keep a safe distance between you and the vehicle in front. Secondly beware of the hard shoulders of these roads, the vast majority of which are unlit at night. These are often used as pavements by local people who add to the Russian roulette by venturing out at night wearing their darkest clothing. Add in the odd drunk on a bike and these hard shoulders become a very real problem when facing a set of headlights bearing down on your vehicle. For those brave enough to venture out the following information should be noted. Poland has strong drink-driving laws: 0.2% is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. You can use your home driving license or an international driving permit for six months from the entry date on your passport. Headlights must be turned on at all times from October 1st to 31st March. The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities, 90km/hr outside urban areas, 110km/hr on dual carriageways and 130km/hr on motorways. All cars are required to carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement bulbs and a national identity sticker. Car related crime is high and drivers should make use of guarded car parks where possible.

Religion

Smoking

For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the church for solace and during the communist era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can understand. Many Poles genuinely believe that John Paul II single-handedly started the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern Europe. Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes Catholicism very seriously. Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass.

Smokers tired of relentless persecution in the west will be delighted to know that few countries can boast such a fierce commitment to the habit as Poland. Although the number of male smokers has plunged from 70% of the population down to 38% in recent years, this is still very much a tobacco friendly country. Poland is fast becoming the major European production centre for leading cigarette brands, with Phillip Morris, Imperial Tobacco and British American Tobacco all being major investors in the economy. Those gunning for a lung-busting taste of a traditional local brand should keep their eyes peeled for brands like Sobieski, Extra Mocne and Meski. Bear in mind that it is taken as bad luck to light your snout off a candle, especially if you are close to the coast; an action which apparently guarantees the death of a sailor. Non-smokers are in for a tough time, and the tobacco free sections (dla niepalących) of restaurants are often in the nether-regions of the venue.

Money Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents, public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and bar, will refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for such moments. Notes come in denominations of 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10 złotys, and there are 1, 2 and 5 złoty coins. One złoty equals 100 groszy which come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 groszy coins. Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and anywhere with a sign proclaiming it to be a Kantor, though for the best deal you are best off simply drawing out money using your ATM card.

Queuing

Tipping Tipping etiquette in Poland can be confusing for foreigners. While in other countries it’s polite to say thanks when a waiter collects the money, you’ll be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word thank you is taken as a sign that you won’t be wanting any change back. This cultural slip-up can get very expensive. What’s more, the waiter will do his or her best to make you feel deeply embarrassed if you try to get anything back after realizing your mistake. For the most part it is common to reward good service with a 10% tip once you have received your change.

Visas Poland’s entrance into the EU has seen sweeping changes to visa requirements. Members of the EU, and citizens of Australia, New Zealand, Canada and the US can now enter Poland without a visa and stay for a period of three months (British citizens can stay for six months). If you wish to extend your stay then you must visit the Urzad Wojewódzki on ul. Długa 5 and ask to be issued with a Karta Pobytu. Visas are not available at airports or land or sea borders and therefore must be procured from a Polish consulate outside of Poland.

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CULTURE & EVENTS What’s On To find out what’s afoot on the cultural front we have also provided you with a comprehensive list of events covering everything from cinema listings to contemporary art. April 2 Remember that song Supergirl? That was Reamonn, a German Irish band with two platinum records already under their belt. The concert starts at 20:30 at Stodoła, ul. Batorego 10 (F-4) though doors open at 19:00. Tickets cost 100zł and 120zł on the day in the club. For more information visit www.stodola.pl. April 5 German rockers Tokio Hotel perform at the Torwar on ul. Łazienkowska 6a (H-4). Gates open at 18:00. Tickets can be ordered from www.livenation.pl and are priced at 99, 120 and 220zł. April 12 The Original Shaolin Monks will present their actionpacked dancing version of kung-fu at Palace of Culture and Science, pl. Defilad 1 ( Kongresowa Hall) (B-4) at 19:00. Tickets are available for 60, 110, 150 and 180zł at the box office open 12:00 - 18:00, closed Sat and Sun, or through www.ticketpro.pl. For more details www. kongresowa.pl. Until April 22 Sylvia Kolbowski (USA) presents her Inadequate History of American Art through videos and installations in Galler y 1 at the Centre for Contemporar y Ar t, al. Ujazdowskie 6 (Ujazdowski Castle). For more info see www.csw.art.pl. Until April 22 The works of Gustav Metzger 1995-2007 can be seen at Zachęta Gallery, pl. Małachowskiego 3 (B-3). Open 12:00 – 20:00. Closed Monday. April 28 Vonda Shepard, best known as the woman who sings the Ally McBeal songs performs at Warsaw’s Sala Kongresowa inside the Palace of Culture. Tickets are 80-190zł and can be purchased at the Kongresowa Hall box office, open 12:00 – 18:00, closed Sat and Sun, or through www.ebilet.pl. For details see www.makroconcert.pl. Until May 7 Gallery 2 at the Centre for Contemporary Art, al. Ujazdowskie 6 (Ujazdowski Castle) is hosting an international joint exhibit called Uncertain States of America. For more info see www. csw.art.pl. May 9 Vaya Con Dios, heroes for the Polish middle aged perform hits like Puerto Rico, and What’s a Woman…inside the Sala Kongresowa inside Warsaw’s Palace of Culture. Tickets cost 150, 170, and 190zł and can be purchased from the box office, open 12:00 – 18:00, closed Sat and Sun. For more details visit www.kongresowa.pl. May 13 Watch the thrash metal nutcases Trivium perform Warsaw’s Proxima (ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99a). You’ll already be aware these chaps won the Metal Hammer gong for best concert band in 2005, and tickets are priced at 90-100zł. The box office is open from 09:00 – 17:00 though will also be on sale on the gate.

Warsaw In Your Pocket

May 26 Yamato The Drummers of Japan visit Poland once more to present Shin-On – The Rhythm of the Heart. Some reviews of their shows speak of crumbling ceilings and cracking windows so bring a tin hat and body armour. The show starts at 20:00, with tickets ranging from 80-200zł. Buy them from the Kongresowa Hall box office, open 12:00 – 18:00, closed Sat and Sun. For more details visit www.kongresowa.pl.

CULTURE & EVENTS Silver Screen D-5, ul. Puławska 17, tel. 022 852 89 99, www.silverscreen.com.pl. One of the poshest cinemas in town. They also have what’s known as the Platinum Screen, which boasts extra big seats, free refreshments and fewer plebs.

Cultural institutes Austrian Cultural Forum A-3, ul. Próżna 8, tel. 022

June 1 Anyone who has toyed with suicide will be familiar with doom indie rock merchants Placebo, and you can see them in all their weirdness at the Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6. Gates open at 18:00, tickets are 99, 120 and 220zł and can be purchased through www.livenation.pl.

Art galleries CSW G-4, al. Ujazdowskie 6 (Ujazdowski Castle), tel. 022 628 12 71 ext.108, www.csw.art.pl. The Museum of Modern Art holds exhibitions, film screenings and theatre performances. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Fri 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł, Thu free. Galeria Bali ul. Jasna 22, tel. 022 828 67 71, www. galeriabali.pl. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Kordegarda C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 15/17, tel. 022 421 01 25. Avant garde weirdness. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Zachęta National Galler y of Ar t B-3, pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 022 827 58 54, www.zacheta. art.pl. Unmissable. One of the leading galleries in Poland, with a focus on the contemporary. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/7zł., Thu free.

Cinemas All films (except kids films) are shown in the original language with Polish subtitles. The Poles have become obsessed with multiplex cinemas - they’re everywhere, and most of the big shopping malls can boast one. Expect to pay around 15zł plus for a ticket.

620 96 20, www.austria.org.pl. British Council B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 59, tel. 022 695 59 00, www.britishcouncil.pl. Bulgarian Culture and Information Center A-3, al. Ujazdowskie 33/35, tel. 022 620 25 20, www. bigpolska.com. Cervantes Institute G-4, ul. Myśliwiecka 4, tel. 022 622 54 22, www.cervantes.pl. Czech Centre G-4, al. Róż 16, tel. 022 629 72 71, www. czechcentres.cz/warsaw. French Institute B-2, ul. Senatorska 38, tel. 022 505 98 00, www.ifv.pl. Goethe Institute A-3, ul. Chmielna 13a, tel. 022 505 90 00, www.goethe.de. Hungarian Institute of Culture B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 80, tel. 022 629 32 41, www.magyarintezet.hu. Italian Institute B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 72, tel. 022 627 61 44, www.iicvarsavia.esteri.it. Japanese Culture and Information Center C-4, al. Ujazdowskie 51, tel. 022 584 73 00, [email protected], www.pl.emb-japan.go.jp. Lithuanian Centre G-4, al. Ujazdowskie 12, tel. 022 745 05 93, www.lietuva.pl. Russian Culture and Information Center G-5, ul. Belwederska 25 (entrance from ul. Spacerowa), tel. 022 849 27 30, www.ronik.org.pl. Slovakian Institute C-1, ul. Krzywe Koło 12/14a, tel. 022 635 77 74, www.instytutslowacki.pl.

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Made in Poland Like the Czech Skoda and the East German Trabant the Polish ‘Maluch’ has served several purposes during its lifetime; a Godsend for families behind the iron curtain, source of merriment for smirking foreigners and now, as a cult icon for commie nostalgists. Through the years Polish exports have won world acclaim, from expertly cut glass to dangerously delicious vodka, so this flimsy tin deathtrap on wheels is something of an unlikely hero of Polish engineering. Manufactured between 1973 and 2000 in factories in Bielsko-Biała and Tychy the car was produced under the Italian Fiat license, with its official title being the Polish Fiat 126p. Its diminutive size saw it awarded the common moniker of Maluch (little one), a name that was so widely used that the manufacturers officially re-christened the brand in 1997. When the first one rolled off the production belt in June 1973 it was priced at 69,000 (approximately three times the average annual wage), and became the first popular family car in Poland. Throughout communist times the car could only be purchased through joining a waiting list, which at times ran to a couple of years, though diligent workers would often be rewarded with special vouchers allowing them to jump the queue. By the time production came to a halt in 2000 over 3.2 million had seen action on the roads of Poland. The conveyor belts may have ground to a halt but the car still boasts a remarkable staying power, and you’ll still find many zipping and weaving between traffic, usually driven by fearless pizza delivery boys showing an alarming commitment to delivering their goods in record time.

Theatres Ateneum D-2, ul. Jaracza 2, tel. 022 625 73 30, www. teatrateneum.pl.

Atlantic B-4, ul. Chmielna 33, tel. 022 827 08 94, www.

Dramatyczny B-4, pl. Defilad 1 (Palace Of Culture), tel.

kinoatlantic.pl.

022 656 68 44, www.teatrdramatyczny.pl.

Cinema City Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mo-

Great Theatre - National Opera (Teatr Wielki) B-2,

kotów), tel. 022 456 65 00, www.cinema-city.pl. Also at Promenada (ul. Ostrobramska 75), Bemowo (ul. Powstańców Śląskich 126a),Sadyba (ul. Powsińska 31) and Janki (pl. Szwedzki 3) shopping malls. Femina A-2, al. Solidarności 115, tel. 022 654 45 45, www.kinoplex.pl. Shabby multiplex. Iluzjon F-5, ul. Narbutta 50a, tel. 022 646 12 60, www. fn.org.pl. Alternative, underground and cult films. Imax ul. Powsińska 31, tel. 022 550 33 33, www. kinoimax.pl. Kino.Lab D-4, al. Ujazdowskie 6 (CSW), tel. 022 628 12 71 ext. 160, www.csw.art.pl/kino_lab. Independent and alternative gallery and cinema. Kinoteka B-4, pl. Defilad 1 (Palace of Culture), tel. 022 826 12 99, www.kinoteka.pl. Multiplex in the heart of the Palace of Culture. Multikino al. KEN 60 (metro station Imielin), tel. 022 644 66 00, www.multikino.pl. Multikino Baby al. KEN 60, tel. 022 543 52 22, www. multikino.pl. Muranów B-1, ul. Gen. Andersa 1, tel. 022 831 03 58, www.muranow.gutekfilm.pl. Paradiso B-2, al. Solidarności 62 (Museum of Independence), tel. 022 826 90 91, www.solopan.com.pl. Independant cinema. Loads of flicks by Lynch, the Cohen brothers and Greenway.

pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 022 692 02 00, www.teatrwielki.pl. This is the big one. Komedia ul. Słowackiego 19a, tel. 022 833 68 80, www.teatrkomedia.pl. You won’t be laughing when you realise much of it is in Polish. Kwadrat B-3, ul. Czackiego 15/17, tel. 022 826 96 37, www.teatrkwadrat.pl. Mały B-3, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, (Pasaż Wiecha), tel. 022 827 50 22, www.narodowy.pl. National Theatre (Teatr Narodowy) B-2, pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 022 692 07 70, www.narodowy.pl. Rampa ul. Kołowa 20, tel. 022 679 89 76, www. teatr-rampa.pl. Roma A-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 49, tel. 022 628 70 71, www.teatrroma.pl. Sabat B-4, ul. Foksal 16, tel. 022 826 23 55, www. teatr-sabat.pl. Pre-war cabaret, dinner shows, etc.

The latest events online: www.inyourpocket.com

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Pocket Store The entire range of In Your Pocket city guides is now available for sale online at http://clickandbuy. inyourpocket.com. From Albania to Ukraine our priceless guides can now be bought before you travel, making a visit to Europe’s sexiest and sometimes strangest destinations easier than ever. In the not too distant future we will also be offering a range of In Your Pocket branded travel accessories and merchandise for sale too.

April - May 2007

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WHERE TO STAY

PRESS & MAIL Want to see your name in lights? We appreciate all reader feedback. Send your comments - be they good or bad - to [email protected]. Please include a return e-mail. Just wanted to say a big thank you to everyone at the In Your Pocket guides. They were as useful as always so thank you so much for getting them to us. We ended up in Bar Below in Warsaw ourselves (amongst several other bars) and thoroughly enjoyed our stay in Poland. Thanks again for all your help. Kind regards Sue Hastie

I’d like to thank you again for your informative and enjoyable guides - I subscribe to Krakow in Your Pocket and always look forward to the next issue. I’m planning to visit Łódź for the first time at the end of March- it’s only a short trip and I want to see as much as possible, so I was hoping to buy a copy of Łódź in Your Pocket before I go so I can read it at leisure. So far attempts to buy a copy of the Łódź issue in Krakow have only resulted in some funny looks. Gill Buswell Editors reply: The full range of In Your Pocket guides can be purchased online from our website at http://clickandbuy. inyourpocket.com. Mini guides, available in PDF format, can be downloaded for free from www.inyourpocket.com. So now I have let enough time pass by without writing this letter to the In Your Pocket team - it’s high up the time to do this. I clearly and definitely have to state that the guide to Gdańsk is absolutely and indisputably my all-time favourite guide on the planet. No doubt. I have been to many places in my life, and have had to struggle through boring and non-informative stacks of so-called guide books. Sometimes disappointed that I have spent money for such crap, sometimes angry about the same. However, a deep bow for the commitment of all the many avid researchers bustling through the multifarious tri-city, finding the unknown to be known and shown. Respect. Martin Schneider, Vienna

I picked up a copy of your Poznań magazine and while I am really happy that such a guide exists, flicking through it, I found some inaccuracies: I do not think one can get a better deal using an ATM rather than a KANTOR. My experience says the opposite, if you take into account your bank’s exchange rates plus the charge for using the ATM abroad. Queuing: while there is a stark contrast between a Polish and a British bus stop in this respect, generally the system in Poznań works about the same as everywhere in the old EU. As for roads. A horse and cart! I think you should leave town more often! I have not encountered this west of Warsaw for a decade now. It is the battered old Maluch you should warn against. I would like to stress that I appreciate the effort put into the guide, par ticularly in the ever changing worlds of accommodation, restaurants and entertainment. I wish you good luck with next issues. With kind regards, Maciej R. Tumasz

Warsaw In Your Pocket

Picked up your very excellent Warsaw guide in the fitness room in Polonia Palace’s basement. Truly informative and entertaining, especially the sections on booze, clubs, Polish food and what to expect at the cop shop! I do however have a slight reservation about your calling Borpince Ausrtian-Hungarian - it’s as truly 100% Hungarian as it gets! The place was excellent from the food the service to the wine list. Excellent atmosphere too. Thanks for the recommendation. Chris McAlister Your pub and restaurant descriptions - sometimes hilarious, and pretty much drastically accurate. Karol Kardach

I just returned from a business trip to Lodz. Several of us from my company spent over a month in the city. We visited nearly every restaurant and pub available on the main drag and once we discovered our favorites, we returned time and time again. One of our favorites was Hola Amigo. I was surprised to read how dissatisfied you were with this place. The food we had was very good and the service was the best we had anywhere. The energy of the waiter, who turned out to be the owner as well, was incredible and even when the place was packed, he managed to provide great service. He went above and beyond what we expected. I agree with most of your restaurant assessments but, in my opinion, you were too harsh with Hola Amigo. Maybe you should go back and try a steak. They are the best in town. Darrin Miller I recently read - and was very impressed by the latest issue of Warsaw In your Pocket. Concerned as I am by the influx of ‘Angielski dupkow’ (English ar*eholes) virtually every weekend, I was interested in your review of the Kaiser Restaurant and the reason for taking the football scarves down. It saddens me to see bars I have long used degenerate into a sh*t-hole pub most weekends from Friday evening to closing on Sunday. I will not describe any of the antics that these English idiots get up to, but it’s embarrassing for customers and humiliating for the staff who have to serve them. Perhaps I’m ‘pressing the wrong buttons’ and the majority of your readers are ‘Brits on the piss’, and In Your Pocket think all this is tolerable. name witheld

Poland Happenings

The price war between top tier hotels is starting to die and rates are once more creeping up. However, do bear in mind rates tend to drop at the weekend, and while we publish the official rack rate, better deals can often be found online. Prices include breakfast unless otherwise stated. Star ratings are awarded by the local tourist board, not In Your Pocket. Hotels will list their prices in Euros, US dollars and/or złotys. Whatever the case, your bill will be calculated using the exchange rate of the day.

Symbol key

Cream of the crop NEW

D Sauna

W Wi-Fi

P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

C Swimming pool

Hilton Warsaw Hotel & Convention Centre E-3, ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 022 356 55 55, fax 022 356 55 56, [email protected], www.warsaw.hilton. com. Opened in mid-March the Hilton is the latest glittering addition to Warsaw’s five star club. Guests are greeted by a breathtaking glass lobby off which you’ll find a healthy dose of world class drinking and dining options, while situated above are the conference and function rooms – unlike no other in town. Take time out in the hotel spa and health club, which touts a 25 metre pool as part of its repertoire, or live it up in the top floor executive lounge; equipped with DVDs, snacks, computer games and private check in. Rooms come with a stylish modern look, walk in showers and flat screen televisions. The corner suites are particularly impressive, with floor to ceiling views of downtown Warsaw.Q314 rooms (240 singles €150 - 175, 240 doubles €150 - 175, 73 apartments €200 - 255). POTHARUFLGKDCW

Holiday Inn A-4, ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 022 697 39 99, fax 022 697 38 99, [email protected], www.holiday-inn. com/warsawpoland. As you’d expect from anywhere that bears the Holiday Inn crest, this hotel has immaculate rooms which include everything from trouser press to video games. A quick tour reveals designer boutiques, beauty parlour and a fitness centre in the basement. Q336 rooms (56 singles N89 - 155, 270 doubles N89 - 155, 10 apartments N189 - 235). Breakfast €16. THARUFLGKDW hhhh Hyatt Regency G-5, ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 022 558 12 34, fax 022 558 12 35, [email protected], www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com. Situated right on the doorstep of Łazienki Park, the Hyatt not only has all the five star trimmings, but the biggest hotel swimming pool in Warsaw. By hotel standards the rooms are enormous, and come with easy-on-the-eye cream colours and huge showerheads designed for that mock rain experience. Q250 rooms (90 singles N75 - 185, 51 doubles N115 - 215, 16 suites N115 - 355, 16 apartments N175 - 355, 2 Diplomatic Suites N1025 - 1105, 1 Presidential Suite N1995 - 2075). OTHARUFLGKDCW hhhhh

InterContinental A-4, ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 022 328 88 88, fax 022 328 88 89, warsaw@interconti. com, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. A beautiful three-legged structure, the Warsaw InterContinental is nothing short of an architectural marvel. Accommodation fits the setting, with spacious rooms using pleasant colour combinations and including every facility one would expect. Setting it apart from the competition is a fitness centre and swimming pool on the 44th floor, and huge residential suites for long-term guests. Q 401 rooms (266 singles N105 - 150, 35 doubles N105 - 150, 75 apartments N180 - 260, 1 Presidential Suite N1200 - 1700). Tax 7%. Breakfast €20. PTHARUFLGKDCW hhhhh Le Regina B-1, ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 022 531 60 00, fax 022 531 60 01, [email protected], www.leregina.com. Occupying a restored property in Nowe Miasto, Warsaw’s latest boutique hotel is an attractive ensemble of expensive artwork and designer furniture. Bleached oak and marble mocha are used for the floorwork, and each room comes with unique frescoes, bathrobes and personally controlled air-conditioning; even the Do Not Disturb signs are made from velvet. A monastic silence prevails, and colour schemes are a soothing combination of whites, creams and rich browns. Q61 rooms (59 singles N300 - 450, 59 doubles N300 - 450, 1 apartment N650, 1 Le Regina Suite N800 - 950, 1 Presidential Suite €1500). Breakfast €20. Tax 7%. TJHARUFLGKDCW hhhhh Le Royal Méridien Bristol C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 022 551 10 00, www.warsaw. lemeridien.com. Commitment to excellence is second to none, and few hotels can match the history and charisma offered by the art-nouveau Bristol. You’ll be following in esteemed footsteps; the plaque in the lobby lists dozens of celebrities who have stayed here including Thatcher and Platini. Q204 rooms (173 singles N129 - 159, 173 doubles N129 - 159, 30 apartments N169 - 1300, 1 Paderewski Suite €2000). Breakfast €25. Tax 7%. TJHARUF GKDC hhhhh

Poland is an increasingly important centre of culture, and artisans, performers and musicians from all over the world now regularly arrive here to showcase their various talents. From art house sculptors to top-name bands, In Your Pocket is dedicated to bringing news of these events to as wide an audience as possible. Besides the listings on these pages, we also regularly update our website with all the news and events as they reach us, sometimes after our print guide has gone to press. For the latest event information make www. inyourpocket.com the first place you visit.

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WHERE TO STAY Marriott B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 022 630 63 06, fax 022 830 03 11, [email protected], www.marriott.com/wawpl. A hotel with real pedigree, the Warsaw Marriott has everything from Warsaw’s classiest doorman outside to award winning restaurants inside. The accommodation has been home to a long line of visiting nabobs, including George W. Bush. An extensive program of renovation has recently seen all the rooms upgraded. Q518 rooms (278 singles N149, 202 doubles N149, 94 suites N149, 1 Presidential Suite €2000). Breakfast €15/20. Tax 7%. PO THARUFLGKDCW hhhhh

Polonia Palace Hotel B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 022 318 28 00, fax 022 318 28 01, pp.reservation@ syrena.com.pl, www.poloniapalace.com. Originally built in 1913 the structure has undergone an amazing facelift, and positively shines amid it’s surroundings. Inside the grand marble lobby features a glass covered atrium, while upstairs huge rooms come decorated with earth fabrics and contemporary styles. Q206 rooms (198 singles N210 - 230, 198 doubles N220 - 240, 7 suites N250 - 360, 1 apartment N510 - 520). PTHARUFGKDW hhhh Radisson SAS Centrum A-3, ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 022 321 88 88, fax 022 321 88 89, info.warsaw@ radissonsas.com, www.radissonsas.com. An excellent hotel with top-drawer facilities and rooms themed on Italian, Scandinavian and what they describe as maritime styles. All come with dataports, three telephone lines, safes and pay-TV, and there’s also state-of-the-art conference, dining and fitness facilities. The hotel’s chic, fashionable image is a welcome change to a couple of the more stuffy hotels in town. Q311 rooms (283 singles N110 - 240, 283 doubles N110 - 240, 27 apartments N180 - 250, 1 Presidential Suite N1000). Tax 7%. Breakfast €20. PTHARUFLG KDCW hhhhh

Rialto F-4, ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 022 584 87 00, fax 022 584 87 01, www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Poland’s first boutique hotel. Decorated exclusively in art-deco style the furnishings were hand picked from antique stores from across Europe. Individually designed rooms come with custom made Italian linen, DVD players and every extra you can wish for. Our favourite: room number 13, designed in a colonial style and featuring zebra skins and tribal masks. A stay here is not unlike setting foot on the set of a Poirot mystery. Calling the shots in the kitchen is Poland’s number one celebrity chef: Kurt Scheller. Q44 rooms (6 singles N139 - 225, 27 doubles €159 - 241, 11 apartments N390 - 524). Breakfast €15-18. THARUFGKDW hhhhh Sheraton Warsaw Hotel C-4, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 022 450 61 00, fax 022 450 62 00, warsaw@sheraton. com, w w w.sheraton.com.pl. Fi tness centre, office space, boutique and a line-up of top restaurants and bars make the Sheraton a world within itself. There’s first-class traits aplenty and all rooms come with three phone lines, dataports, evening turndown service, etc. The more you spend the more perks you’ll find. The Club Suites come with complimentary cocktails, personal club attendant and fax, copy and printing facilities. Q350 rooms (335 singles N126 - 198, 335 doubles N126 - 198, 14 apartments N406 - 478, 1 Presidential Suite N1439 - 2100). Breakfast €24. Tax 7%. PTHARUFLGKDXW hhhhh Sofitel Victoria Warsaw B-3, ul. Królewska 11, tel. 022 657 80 11, fax 022 657 80 57, sof.victoria@ orbis.pl, www.orbisonline.pl. Dapper rooms boast video games, newspapers and minibar, as well as more mundane items like dataports and trouser press. Business rooms

Warsaw In Your Pocket

come with an additional study, complete with fax, copier and a separate bathroom. Q 341 rooms (158 singles N130 - 195, 120 doubles N130 - 195, 10 apartments N285 - 315, 1 Presidential Suite €1550). Breakfast €20. From Jen. tax 7%. OTHARUFLGKDCW hhhhh

The Westin A-3, al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 022 450 80 00, fax 022 450 81 11, [email protected], www. westin.com.pl. Warsaw’s best lift zips guests to the desired floor, with rooms coming decorated in warm tones and ultramodern fittings. Each comes replete with dressing gowns and slippers, in-room movies and well-stocked minibars. Q361 rooms (361 singles N142 - 192, 361 doubles N142 - 192, 15 suites N342 - 492, 1 Presidential Suite N1600). Breakfast €27. Tax 7%. THARUFLGKDW hhhhh

Upmarket Best Western Hotel Mazurkas ul. Poznańska 177, Ożarów Mazowiecki, tel. 022 721 47 47, fax 022 721 47 51, www.mazurkashotel.pl. Handsome accommodation 14km from central Warsaw. Gleaming fixtures and fittings, plus all the gadgets and extras you require. Q 158 rooms (154 singles 515zł, 154 doubles 550zł, 4 apar tmen ts 1065zł). THARUFL GKD hhhh Jan III Sobieski E-3, pl. Artura Zawiszy 1, tel. 022 579 10 00, fax 022 659 88 28, www.sobieski.com. pl. The façade has just been given a lick of paint, meaning it’s now back to a ghastly combination of pink and yellow. The interior is more subtle and features a marble lobby, big rooms and fitness facilities. Q427 rooms (60 singles N77 - 190, 367 doubles N89 - 205, 41 apartments N135 - 265, 1 Royal Suite N695). PTHARUFLG KDW hhhh

Mercure Warszawa Fryderyk Chopin A-3, al. Jana Pawła II 22, tel. 022 528 03 00, fax 022 528 03 03, [email protected], www.orbisonline.pl. The colourful rooms at the Chopin provide quality accommodation with a hint of Gallic flair. Rooms have a contemporary style and offer guests all expected mod cons: internet connection, air-conditioning, minibar. Q249 rooms (111 singles N135, 131 doubles N135, 7 apartments N220). Breakfast €15. THAUFLKDXW hhh

Novotel Warszawa Centrum B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 022 621 02 71, fax 022 625 04 76, nov. [email protected], www.orbisonline.pl. The giant skyscraper has ditched its former yellow exterior in favour of a sleek silver look, while the lobby has been completely rehauled, with a top notch fusion restaurant and bar added. Upstairs spanking clean rooms come with all expected amenities, as well as grandstand views of the skyline. This is the Novotel experience completely reinvented. Q733 rooms (50 singles €158, 661 doubles €158, 12 suites N230 - 246, 10 apartments N190 - 206). Breakfast €15. PTHARU FLGKDW hhhh Zajazd Napoleoński ul. Płowiecka 83, tel. 022 815 30 68, www.napoleon.waw.pl. Napoleon allegedly camped out here during his march to Moscow, hence the name. Rooms have been revamped since those days but still carry a mildly austere atmosphere as a result of the dark colour schemes and vintage lampshades. Q24 rooms (21 singles 240zł, 21 doubles 340zł, 3 apartments 440 - 540zł). HAULGKW hhhh

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WHERE TO STAY Daniel Liebeskind Warsaw’s changing horizon is set for more dramatic developments with the news that the Orco Property Group in conjunction with acclaimed architect Daniel Liebeskind are to construct a 192 metre residential tower in the heart of Warsaw. Flanked by the InterContinental Hotel and the Palace of Culture the Złota 44 project (www. zlota44tower.com) will house 251 luxury apartments, a 25 metre stainless steel swimming pool and top floor wooden sundeck. The daring glass tower effects the looks of a giant Arabian cutlass and in spite of an average price of 7,000 Euro per square metre apartments are already being snapped up fast by Polish celebs. Completion is sketched in for 2009 and packages include the chance to buy apartments with interiors designed by Liebeskind himself. It’s the first time he’s chosen to design in Poland. Born in Łódź in 1946 much of Libeskind’s family was wiped out during the Holocaust, and he became a naturalized citizen of the United States in 1965. On leaving school he originally opted to study music in Israel, becoming a virtuoso accordionist, before pursuing a degree in architecture at New York’s Cooper Union, and gaining a postgraduate degree from Essex University. Employed as the head of the architecture department at the Cranbrook Academy of Art he rocketed to fame when he won the commission to design the Jewish Museum in Berlin in 1989. Although it took ten years to complete the building proved a design masterpiece, and more commissions followed, including the Imperial War Museum in Manchester. To many though he will be most familiar as the man who won the contract to create the masterplan for the World Trade Center following the 9/11 attacks. Libeskind’s design envisaged a 541 metre Freedom Tower, including aerial gardens and windmills, transit station and museum. Wranglings with the other architects and developers involved meant that by 2004 Libeskind had been complexly squeezed out of the project, but he remains one of the worlds most eminent architects.

Mid-range Agrykola H-4, ul. Myśliwiecka 9, tel. 022 622 91 10, www.agrykola-noclegi.pl. A sterile, green and unspectacular hotel. Finding the right entrance often involves a game of cat and mouse with guard dogs and security lights. Q26 rooms (11 singles 249zł, 11 doubles 300zł, 4 apartments 359zł). HARUGKD Belwederski G-5, ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 022 840 40 11, www.hotelbelwederski.pl. Smart rooms found in the diplomatic quarter. The pink exterior is as wacky as it gets, the rest of the hotel offers conservative mid-range comfort complete with satellite TV and large bathrooms. Q53 rooms (16 singles 240zł, 26 doubles 280zł, 10 suites 320zł, 1 apartment 480zł). THARUK hhh

Boutique Bed & Breakfast C-4, ul. Smolna 14/7, tel. 022 829 48 01, fax 022 829 48 02, [email protected], www.bedandbreakfast.pl. Quiet and cobbled, Smolna is not a typical city centre street, and neither is this your typical set of apartments. Apartments suit all budgets, though the Queen - featuring jacuzzi and large living space - is well worth the extra outlay. Accommodation has been designed to evoke a real atmosphere of home-from-home and features lots of flowers, natural wood and personal touches courtesy of Jarek, your host. Q9 rooms (1 single N60, 8 doubles N70 - 105). THARGW

Campanile E-3, ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 022 582 72 00, fax 022 582 72 01, [email protected], www. campanile.com.pl. Decorated with chequered patterns and green and yellow colour schemes the Campanile accommodation includes satellite TV and pristine bathrooms. High standards and a central location. Q192 rooms (192 singles 269zł, 192 doubles 269zł). Breakfast 27zł. TA RUGKW hh Dom Literatury B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 87/89, tel. 022 827 74 28, fax 022 828 39 20, www. fundacjadl.com. Commanding views of Warsaw’s Old Town relieve the sepia gloom, but lugging your bags to the top floor might give you a hernia. At reception, oblivious to the hotel’s latent menace, awaits a supremely glum and unhelpful desk clerk. His job necessitates daily contact with foreigners, yet he remains resolutely, magnificently monolingual. Q13 rooms (3 singles 220zł, 7 doubles 370zł, 1 triple 450zł, 1 quad 520zł, 1 apartment 600zł). HK

Grand Hotel Orbis C-4, ul. Krucza 28, tel. 022 583 21 00, fax 022 621 97 24, [email protected], www.orbisonline.pl. A central location, proficient staff and a pleasantly modern interior earn the Grand every one of its three stars. A recent campaign to sandblast the façade has seen the hotel shed its previously forboding exterior, and it looks fantastic when illuminated at night. The line of coaches parked outside testify to its popularity with foreign tour groups. Renovations are currently afoot inside half of the building. Q135 rooms (73 singles N103, 57 doubles N112, 5 apartments N126). OTHARULGK hhh

Gromada Centrum B-3, pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. 022 582 99 00, www.gromada.pl. It’s almost a surprise to find such a good deal in the city centre. As the coaches parked outside testify, Gromada is a hit with package tours and conferences. First sight is an over-waxed marble lobby, and a curvy stairwell spirits guests to modern, sunny rooms. Q320 rooms (38 singles 250 - 420zł, 264 doubles 300 - 450zł, 5 suites 560zł, 12 apartments 690zł). AGHKLORTUW hhh

Warsaw In Your Pocket

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WHERE TO STAY Hotel Reservations In Your Pocket, in association with Stay Poland, offers its readers and website users the best deals on a wide range of hotels in all of Poland’s major cities. By visiting www.inyourpocket.com you can instantly view prices and availabilty information for thousands of hotels across the country. What’s more, we also now have a dedicated hotline for reservations or queries, with a fully English-speaking staff. Open 24 hours a day the In Your pocket Stay Poland hotel reservations hotline number is 48 (0)22 351 22 35.

Europejski A superb bygone creation the Hotel Europejski (B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieśćie 13) finally closed it’s doors in 2006 following nearly 130 years of service. Built on the site of a guesthouse called Gerlach, the Europejski – or the Europa as it was first known – was funded by publisher Aleksander Przeździecki, and inspired by the designs he had seen in his travels across the world. Touched up by architects like Henryk Marconi it came to be regarded as the first modern hotel in Warsaw. The German invasion in 1939 brought an end to Warsaw’s golden age and the hotel was commandeered by the Wehrmacht. Throughout the occupation the staff, kept on to serve the Germans, played their part in resistance, hiding both Jews and Russian refugees within the building. The structure was smashed to pieces during the Warsaw Uprising and the Nazi fury that followed and in the post-war years it was down to architect Bogdan Pniewski to faithfully rebuild the Europejski’s shattered shell. For the next couple of decades the building operated as training academy for military police, before being handed over in 1956 to the state tourist group Orbis to serve once more as a hotel. It was to remain in their hands until 2005 when, after 14 years of legal battles and appeals, it was finally reclaimed by HESA, a company owned by heirs of the historic owners. The hotel, which once hosted The Rolling Stones, Robert Kennedy, Marlene Dietrich and Indira Ghandi, might have been closed, but HESA have plans to restore Krakowskie Przedmieśćie 13 to its former glory. The lower floors are occupied by trendy eateries and clubs like U Kucharzy and Hotl, while plans are afoot to develop the upper floors into luxury apartments, office space and, once more, a prestigious hotel. An exhibition of the history of the Europejski can also be viewed inside.

WHERE TO STAY Harenda C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 4/6, tel. 022 826 00 71, fax 022 826 26 25, [email protected]. pl, www.hotelharenda.com.pl. A decent family-style hotel within walking distance of the Old Town. Rooms are decorated in pink and chocolate brown colours. Q43 rooms (34 singles 295zł, 7 doubles 315zł, 2 apartments 460zł). Breakfast 20zł. TJHA hh

Hetman H-1, ul. Kłopotowskiego 36, tel. 022 511 98 00, fax 022 618 51 39, [email protected], www.hotelhetman.pl. This is three-star indentikit accommodation at its finest. The large rooms come with internet access, hairdryers, cable TV and neutral beige colour schemes. On the Praga side of the river. Q68 rooms (13 singles 330zł, 56 doubles 380 - 410zł, 2 suites 700zł). THARULGKW hhh

Hotel MDM F-4, pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 022 339 16 00, fax 022 621 41 73, [email protected], www.hotelmdm.com.pl. Occupying a spot at the top of Marszałkowska most rooms in the MDM feature grandstand views of Warsaw’s finest piece of socialist realism: pl. Konstytucji. Accommodation comes with plum coloured carpets and predictable three star comfort. Q132 rooms (25 singles N120, 103 doubles N130 - 150, 4 apartments N180 - 190). THARUGK hhh Hotel Metropol F-3, ul. Marszałkowska 99a, tel. 022 629 40 01, fax 022 628 66 22, [email protected], www. hotelmetropol.com.pl. While top hotels continue springing up left, right and centre the Metropol is a classic reminder of what staying in Warsaw used to be like. True, some floors are undergoing renovation, but if you pull the short straw you’ll find yourself walking back through time into an era of brown threadbare carpets, piercing bathroom lights, rotary dial phones and smoke stained curtains. This is as cold war as it gets, with only missing ingredient being suspicious characters carrying poison tipped umbrellas. Q166 rooms (96 singles N90, 58 doubles N110, 12 apartments N130 - 170). OTAUGKW hhh

Karat ul. Słoneczna 37, tel. 022 849 33 19, fax 022 849 52 94, www.hotelkarat.pl. Standard three-star accommodation in a leafy suburban setting. Plain, tidy rooms come with clean finishes and all the expected facilities such as TV, bathroom and telephone. There’s no minibar, but the night porter is happy to take orders and head off to the offlicense. Q38 rooms (19 singles 250zł, 11 doubles 350zł, 6 suites 400zł). PTHAULKW hhh Kyriad Prestige E-3, ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 022 582 75 00, fax 022 582 75 01, warszawa@kyriadprestige. com.pl, www.kyriadprestige.com.pl. Neighboured by two other hotels from the Envergure group the Kyriad is the most luxurious of the three, and as such has extra comfortable beds, in-room toiletries and fitness facilities onsite. There’s a heavy slant towards the business traveller with excellent conference and meeting facilities on offer. Q133 rooms (133 singles 369zł, 133 doubles 369zł). Breakfast 32zł. PTHARUFLGKDW hhh

Partner Hotel ul. Marywilska 16, tel. 022 814 23 00, www.partnerhotel.pl. A bright, modern hotel with a Scandinavian aesthetic. Rooms come with pine furnishings and large windows allowing plenty of natural light to spill in. It’s a fair distance from the city centre, so possibly best suited to company conferences. Gym, sauna and a long line of other facilities on site. Q103 rooms (52 singles 320zł, 40 doubles 350zł, 6 apartments 300 - 890zł). HAULG KDW hhh

Powiśle Hotel G-3, ul. Szara 10a, tel. 022 621 03 41, www.hotelpowisle.oit.pl. What startled us was the willingness of the porter to cheerily point out faults and dodgy light switches. “You wouldn’t get this in America,” he chuckled. Indeed not. This dinosaur of a hotel flies the flag for standards that should be consigned to history. Q75 rooms (23 singles 140 - 160zł, 54 doubles 180 - 230zł, 1 suite 350 - 400zł). Breakfast 20zł. HARLGK hh

Lord al. Krakowska 218, tel. 022 574 20 00, www. hotellord.com.pl. Newish hotel within easy distance of the airport. The large rooms are conservatively decorated with clean, cream colours, wood furnishings and rich green carpets. High-standard mid-range accommodation which includes an all-weather rooftop restaurant. Q92 rooms (17 singles 342 - 364zł, 70 doubles 385zł, 5 apartments 471zł). THARUFKD hhh

Praski G-1, al. Solidarności 61, tel. 022 818 49 89,

Maria D-1, al. Jana Pawła II 71, tel. 022 838 40 62, fax

F-5, ul. Rejtana 6, tel. 022 646 31 66, fax 022 646 29 89, [email protected], www.reytan.pl. Found down a quiet side street the Reytan delivers a high three star standard. Crisp bed sheets, bright colours and new furniture. Q86 rooms (10 singles 360zł, 76 doubles 390zł, 2 apartments 550zł). THARULGKW hhh

022 838 38 40, [email protected], www.hotelmaria.pl. A small, family run hotel offering moderate prices and prim rooms featuring random floral designs. Q24 rooms (21 singles 200 - 320zł, 14 doubles 250 - 380zł, 1 triple 300 - 430zł, 3 apartments 350 - 420zł). PTAKW hh

www.praski.pl. A recent renovation means it towers over most other two star chancers and even the shared facilities are spotless. Nature buffs should ask for a room overlooking the Praski Park bears. Q31 rooms (3 singles 200 - 240zł, 23 doubles 220 - 270zł, 5 triples 240 - 300zł). THAR ULK hh

Reytan

Ibis Hotel - Ostrobramska ul. Ostrobramska 36, tel. 022 515 78 00, fax 022 515 78 88, [email protected], www.orbisonline.pl. Practical, fully functional rooms fully in line with the standard you expect from the Ibis chain. Q137 rooms (137 singles 159 - 229zł, 137 doubles 159 - 229zł). Breakfast 28zł. PTHARULGKW hh

Ibis Hotel - Stare Miasto E-1, ul. Muranowska 2, tel. 022 310 10 00, fax 022 310 10 10, [email protected], www.orbis.pl. More of the same from Ibis: international standards at competitive standards. Best of all, its location ten minutes from the Old Town means that your immediate choice is no longer limited to spending suitcases of cash in the Bristol. Q333 rooms (326 singles 269zł, 326 doubles 269zł, 7 apartments 319zł). Breakfast 28zł. THAR UGKW hh Ibis Hotel - Warszawa Centrum D-2, al. Solidarności 165, tel. 022 520 30 00, fax 022 520 30 30, [email protected], www.orbisonline.pl. Reliable international standards, sensibly priced. Rooms come armed with all expected mod-cons. Q189 rooms (189 singles 259zł, 189 doubles 259zł). Breakfast 28zł. THARULGKW hh

www.inyourpocket.com Warsaw In Your Pocket

April - May 2007

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WHERE TO STAY Serviced apartments Old Town Apartments B-1, Rynek Starego Miasta 12/14, tel. 022 820 92 27, fax 022 831 49 56, [email protected], www.warsawshotel.com. A series of apartments dotted around the city, not just in old town. Prices to suit each income bracket. Choose from smart one bedroom flats to 120m2 studio apartments. Q50 rooms (50 apartments N60 - 150). Breakfast €5. TJAW hhh

Residence Diana C-3, ul. Chmielna 13a, tel. 022 505 91 00, fax 022 505 91 01, info@residencediana. com, www.residencediana.com. An outstanding set of serviced apartments filled with designer furniture and extras such as DVD players, hi-fi and fully functioning kitchen. Very chic, and absolutely perfect for the travelling CEO. Services include a 24hr English-speaking reception, laundry and business facilities. Also available, discounted use of the spa in Le Regina hotel in the new town district. Q46 rooms (46 apartments N180 - 435). Breakfast €9. Tax 7%. THARULGW hhhh

Residence St Andrews Palace B-4, ul. Chmielna 30, tel. 022 826 46 40, fax 022 826 96 35, info@ residencestandrews.pl, www.residencestandrews. pl. Plush apartments and properties for short and long term rental inside a beautifully restored townhouse. Q24 rooms (24 apartments N95 - 216). TARG hhhh Royal Route Residence B-4, ul. Chmielna 1/3, tel. 022 692 84 95, fax 022 831 49 56, booking@ warsaw-apartments.net, www.warsaw-apartments. net. Named after Polish monarchs, and located inside a renovated town house in the city centre, flats at Royal Route Residence overlook Warsaw’s premier shopping street. All studio apartments feature a chic, contemporary design and come with CD players, high speed internet access and cable TV and the fully equipped kitchens include microwave and fridge. Apartments sleep from one to six people. Q15 rooms (15 apartments N70 - 120). Breakfast €5. TARGX

Warsaw Apartments ul. Augustówka 9, tel. 022 550 45 50, fax 022 550 45 60, www.warsawapartments.com.pl. Self-contained houses and flats offering privacy, top-notch facilities and homely comfort along with the services you’d expect of a hotel: cleaning, reception, etc. Locations around the city. Q88 rooms (88 apartments 235 - 375zł). THARKW

Budget Amicus ul. Hozjusza 2, tel. 022 561 00 00, fax 022 561 00 59, www.amicus.emeteor.pl. This church-owned establishment offers bright, prim rooms, each featuring ecclesiastical touches like bibles and crucifixes. There’s no elevator, so don’t stay on the top floor. Q18 rooms (11 doubles 145zł, 6 triples 188zł, 1 quad 230zł). HARGKW

Aramis ul. Mangalia 3b, tel. 022 842 09 74, fax 022 858 21 26, [email protected], www.puhit.pl. Slightly forbidding at first glance this one star hotel offers base comfort at even lower prices. Do go the extra yard and shell out on a renovated room - perks are minimal but the rooms are clean and come with television and internet access. Q230 rooms (10 singles 110 - 160zł, 70 doubles 110 - 160zł, 145 triples 110 - 160zł). Breakfast 15zł. HARULGK h Warsaw In Your Pocket

Arkadia ul. Radzymińska 182, tel. 022 678 50 55, www.hotelarkadia.pl. Clean rooms with striped curtains and duvets, and staff programmed to be useful. good value, but you’ll find yourself forking out for taxis. Q55 rooms (18 singles 160 - 190zł, 25 doubles 220 - 260zł, 2 triples 370zł, 1 quad 320zł, 2 apartments 350 - 390zł). HAGKW

Atos ul. Mangalia 1, tel. 022 841 43 95, fax 022 841 10 43, [email protected], www.puhit.pl. Another hotel where spending the extra on a premium room is wholly encouraged. The ‘lux’ rooms tout television and internet access, and sport a clean design that uses lots of plywood fittings. A favourite with local conferences, so book in advance to guarantee a bed. Q225 rooms (14 singles 100 - 170zł, 96 doubles 100 - 170zł, 115 triples 100 - 170zł). Breakfast 15zł. ARULGK h

Etap H-3, ul. Zagórna 1, tel./fax 022 745 36 60, [email protected], www.orbisonline.pl. A super addition to Warsaw’s budget bracket, and one of the first Etap hotels to be launched in Poland. It’s a winning formula here: bright, modern rooms inside a sparkling white building in the quiet Powiśle district. The rooms come with a simple design but your cash gets you all the facilities the modern traveller requires: wireless net access, ensuite bathrooms and cable television. Q176 rooms (112 singles 159zł, 157 doubles 169zł, 14 triples 169zł). Breakfast 18zł. ARUGW h

Logos G-2, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 31/33, tel. 022 622 55 62, fax 022 625 51 85, www.hotellogos. pl. Urgh. Expect peeling paint and the smell of blocked drains and stale smoke. The brochure boasts English speaking staff. They’re lying. Q141 rooms (80 singles 98 - 169zł, 61 doubles 148 - 258zł). HARK h

Mazowiecki B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 10, tel./fax 022 827 23 65, [email protected], www. mazowiecki.com.pl. What used to be a grubby budget hotel has seen modest refurbishments and now promises utilitarian comfort at cut prices. Q56 rooms (22 singles 150 - 198zł, 34 doubles 200 - 248zł). THAU h Metalowcy B-2, ul. Długa 29, tel. 022 831 40 21, www.metalowcy. emeteor.pl. Completely depressing. Found on the top floor, Metalowcy treats guests to rooms decorated with dust and lino flooring, with most sharing grotty washing facilities. Only for the diehard cheapskate. Q25 rooms (9 singles 87zł, 9 doubles 130zł, 1 triple 192zł, 5 quads 236 - 257zł). No breakfast. HK

Premiere Classe E-3, ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 022 624 08 00, fax 022 620 26 29, [email protected], www.premiereclasse.com.pl. Your best one star option in the city, and as such often fully booked. Basic, modern rooms come equipped with private bathrooms and television, and the location is just a walk away from the train station. Q126 rooms (90 singles 184zł, 90 doubles 184zł, 36 triples 184zł). Breakfast 18zł. AULGW h

Profesorski H-6, ul. Bobrowiecka 9, tel. 022 559 22 01, www. centrumkonferencyjne.com.pl. Providing you don’t mind shelling out for large taxi bills whenever you fancy going into town, the Profesorski offers clean and functional amenities. Q100 rooms (7 singles 197zł, 128 doubles 219zł). HARFLGK

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WHERE TO STAY

WHERE TO STAY Start Hotel Felix ul. Omulewska 24, tel. 022 210 70

You don’t like expensive, soulless hotels? You don’t like poor quality, tasteless hostels? You have to sleep somewhere? Have fun and sleep well in OKI DOKI!

00, fax 022 813 02 55, [email protected], www.felix. com.pl. A lumbering giant of a hotel whose size accounts for the number of Polish conference meetings booked up. Depressing from the outside, though many of the rooms have been subject to renovation and have a spotless, sterile style that should suit the taste of budget travellers. Found on the right side of the river. Q261 rooms (100 singles 130 - 220zł, 142 doubles 130 - 220zł, 6 triples 150zł, 3 suites 250zł). breakfast 25zł. HARULGKDXW hh

Airport hotels Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17 Stycznia 24, tel. 022 456 80 00, fax 022 456 80 29, rezerwacja@airporthotel. pl, www.airporthotel.pl. Good value for the business traveller, rooms include dataports, satellite TV and plenty of natural light. Wins bonus points for the impressive, top-floor panoramic bar. Q172 rooms (10 singles N70 - 123, 131 doubles N80 - 155, 5 suites N193, 7 apartments N289). THARUFLGKDW hhhh

Stylized rooms with bathrooms as well as brilliant functional dorms, each designed by a different artist, full of colour and ideas. The lowest prices in the centre of Warsaw with the night-life of central Warsaw, free access to Internet, hot-spot, fully-equipped kitchen, a bar with the cheapest beer in town and a launderette. Halfway between the Train Station and the Old Town.

Courtyard by Marriott ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 022 650 01 00, fax 022 650 01 01, [email protected], www.courtyard.com/wawcy. Decorated with colourful floral duvets all rooms are fully sound-proofed and come with big dressing gowns and ironing boards. The meeting facilities are second-to-none and the hotel can also boast the best internet café in Poland under its roof; seating sixty people, it offers high-speed wireless access as well as a good range of snacks and drinks. Even if you don’t plan on staying, the hotel restaurant and lobby bar open a wealth of options for passing air travellers. Q226 rooms (219 singles N135, 219 doubles N135, 6 suites N175 - 225, 1 Chopin suite N275). Breakfast €15. Tax 7%. THARUFGKW hhhh

Oki Doki Warszawa, Plac Dąbrowskiego 3 tel. + 48 (22) 826 51 12 www.okidoki.pl

In the news www.inyourpocket.com Nathan’s Villa Hostel F-4, ul. Piękna 24/26, tel./fax 022 622 29 46, warsaw@ nathansvilla.com, www.nathansvilla.com. Poland’s best hostel. Nathan, a backpacker and hedonist himself, has considered every detail from high speed internet to free laundry. The kitchen/common room is a fantastic space to share a crate of beer with other travellers, and the high standards extend to the accommodation: modern bunk beds and gleaming bathrooms inside a fully renovated courtyard building. Absolutely no curfews, lockouts or checkout times, and staff who will fall over backwards to help guests. Q19 rooms (6 doubles 160 - 200zł). Dorms 45-60zł per bed. AGW

Oki Doki B-3, pl. Dąbrowskiego 3, tel. 022 826 51 12, fax 022 826 83 57, [email protected], www.okidoki.pl. A charismatic hostel stuffed with abstract art, bits and bobs from thrift stores and wacky colour schemes. The last few months have seen a dramatic overhaul, with more private rooms added. Rooms don’t have numbers, just themes, and have been designed by a team of local artists. Take a look at ‘The Realm of Narnia’, like something straight out of C.S Lewis, or ‘The Communist Dorm’, filled with commie iconography and scenes from Socialist Paradise. Kitchen and internet also available for guests, as well as what the owners promise is ‘the cheapest beer in Warsaw’. Q37 rooms (1 single 110 - 130zł, 21 doubles 145 - 210zł). Dorms 42-82zł per bed, breakfast 10zł. TARLGW

Poland’s MPs continued to make the headlines, and it was no surprise to find the controversial Samoobrona front man Andrzej Lepper in the thick of it all. One national paper had claimed that Lepper was blackmailed by a crime gang after using prostitutes provided by them, and one of his former members of staff declared she only won her job after caving in to his lecherous demands – DNA tests eventually cleared Lepper though his party now finds itself reeling from the negative publicity, and Lepper faces charges of slander having accused the woman at the centre of the row of sexual deviancy. His rant ended with him calling for her to crawl from Gdańsk to Częstochowa on a road made of peas while beating herself on the head and apologizing to everyone. If that’s a candidate for quote of the year, we’ve already found the winner of idiot of the year. That’s a title reserved for a drunk thief who stole a car in Mazury. Having careered the motor into a ditch the halfwit then staggered to the nearest house asking for assistance, not realizing the man he was asking for help was the legitimate owner of the vehicle. The police were called and the not so master criminal now finds himself with plenty of time to ponder his actions in jail. Closer to Kraków, New Zealander Bruce Robinson has finally been granted 300,000zł bail after being imprisoned without trial for over a year. Robinson was held in connection with the Katowice pigeon fair disaster of 2006 in which 65 people lost their lives after a roof collapsed on them. Supporters claim Robinson, who worked for the company that owned the building, has been made a scapegoat.

Gromada Airport ul. 17 Stycznia 32, tel. 022 576 46 00, fax 022 846 15 80, [email protected], www.gromada.pl. A huge newly expanded wing has opened, adding beds and upping the overall quality. Rooms incorporate bright, sunny colours, while the conference rooms could fit a small army. Just 800 metres from the airport, so don’t worry about getting stuck into the bar the night before your morning flight. Q350 rooms (128 singles 250 - 420zł, 190 doubles 280 - 450zł, 29 apartments 500 - 800zł). THARU FLGK hhh

Novotel Warszawa Airport TM

D-7, ul. 1 Sierpnia 1, tel. 022 575 60 00, fax 022 575 69 99, [email protected], www.orbisonline. pl. Comfortably inside the mid-range bracket, Novotel is a canny choice for those who expect professional standards at competitive prices. Splashy colours, dataports and shining bathrooms lend a comfortable, practical tone to the rooms. Q278 rooms (277 singles N145, 277 doubles N145, 1 apartment N180). Breakfast €12. THARUFLG KDW hhh

Hostels www.warsawShotel.com • [email protected]

Warsaw In Your Pocket

Agrykola H-4, ul. Myśliwiecka 9, tel. 022 622 91 10, fax 022 622 91 05, [email protected], www.hotelagrykola. pl. Not to be confused with the middling hotel downstairs. Dorms are spacious and modern and there’s also a lounge area with TV and pool table. A great deal, and as such often fully booked. Q7 rooms (1 triple 168zł, 6 quads 224zł). Dorms 36zł per bed. Breakfast 15-19zł. HAGK

April - May 2007

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RESTAURANTS

30

P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Summer garden

6 Animal friendly

Louisiana D-1, al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia Shopping Mall), tel. 022 318 12 25, www.louisiana.pl. Tucked away on the top floor of the Arkadia Shopping Mall, Louisiana is the archetypal American experience at a fraction of the cost of Warsaw’s other American eateries. A number of screens relay international sport, while the house specialty, the Louisiana Ribs, leave no gap for dessert. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (20-80zł). TAUBXSW

J Old Town location

W Wi-Fi

SomePlace Else

Symbol key

The figures in brackets denote the price of the cheapest and most expensive main dish on the menu. Note that the times we list are subject to change and should be used as approximate guidelines.

American NEW

Hard Rock Cafe A/B-4, ul. Złota 51, tel. 022 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl. A quick interrogation at the front desk determines the purpose of your visit; if it’s for drinks, the staff will do their level best to keep you on the ground floor. If it’s food then you’ll find yourself ushered downstairs, passing memorabilia that includes gui tars swung by Poland’s pop heroes, as well as a leather jacket once worn by Bob Dylan. The menu offers no surprises, with the usual collection of burgers, wings, ribs and fajitas. We had a collection of starters, all of which arrived promptly in spite of the massed hordes of fashion conscious Polski pop groupies, and subsequently passed the taste test comfortably; try the spicy chicken wings. A sprawling floor plan includes space for live bands, a huge wall of electric guitars, and a long bar lined with TV screens playing rock hits. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (3069zł). TAUEBXS

Champions Sports Bar B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 022 630 51 19, www.champions. pl. A vast sports bar with over 34 television screens, two LCD projectors and two 3ms screens to their name, and enough sports trophies, signed shirts and miscellaneous memorabilia to fill a museum. Video games, pool tables and electronic dartboards keep kids and drinkers occupied, while the open kitchen is the source of burgers, wings and ribs, delivered by efficient staff dressed in polo shirts. A Warsaw institution, and a favoured meeting for the off-duty business crowd. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (25-55zł). ASTX

Chicago’s A-4, ul. Żelazna 41, tel. 022 890 09 99, www.chicagos.pl. As with all caricature American bars, décor is an over-the-top collection of Route 66 road signs and 50s beer ads. Nurse a bourbon while staff ferry orders of potato skins and apple pie around. Good and uncomplicated, though occasional live bands do their level best to make conversation tricky. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (16-59zł). ABST

Jeff’s ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 022 541 34 90, www.jeffs.pl. A classic American bar decked out with number plates and neon. The chef seems to assume everyone here is a professional wrestler and the huge portions of steaks and ribs reflect this. Their motto, ‘If it’s not exceptional, it’s not acceptable’ needs re-wording: ‘It’s acceptable, not exceptional’. Find it on the top floor of Galeria Mokotów, with a new second location added to ul. Żwirki i Wigury 32. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. (19-49zł). TAUXS

Warsaw In Your Pocket

G 3, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw Hotel), tel. 022 450 67 10, www.sheraton.com.pl. A fixture on Warsaw’s expat scene, SomePlace Else is the sort of place where staff are on first name terms with the regulars and live bands get the crowds dancing between tables. The huge salads and ‘mumbo jumbo’ burgers are great for hangovers and are served in an interior with rock’n’roll photos and model aeroplanes hanging from the ceiling. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Mon 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (24-99zł). AESTUWX

TGI Friday’s E-2, al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. 022 653 83 60, www. fridays.com.pl. If you’re hankering for a pre-packaged plastic slice of home by all means, dine at Friday’s. A favourite with families and the after-five lot from the neighbouring offices this is an exact replica of the Friday’s you’ll find in your home town. Average, often better, occasionally awful. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (20-59zł). ABSTUX

Balkan Banja Luka G-6, ul. Puławska 101, tel. 022 854 07 82, www. banjaluka.pl. Feasting as done the Balkan way in a room packed with timber, flowers and ceramics. Starve yourself a few days beforehand to make the most of the piles of classic Croat, Serb and Bosnian dishes that are carried to your table. If nothing less expect lots of different animals cooked and grilled in every way imaginable; if you’re vegetarian, scarper. The garden is country cottage in its style, and a must visit in warmer months. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (1844zł). AESTX

Smoking or non-smoking Entering a bar or restaurant can be a risky business these days for both smokers looking to enjoy their habit and for non-smokers who wish to enjoy their meal without running the risk of cancerous infections. This is particularly true of Poland where you face a number of issues. Many places will claim to have non-smoking sections but the size of many of these places, notably in Krakow, the passion for nicotine which still exists here and the plain poor segregation make these completely useless. To confuse matters some businesses are also adopting complete bans on smoking ahead of expected legislation already in place in other parts of the new EU such as Latvia. In order to clarify this we have adopted a new set of definitions and symbols,which are included at the end of each review, as regards smoking

G

This restaurant or bar has a complete ban on smoking on the premises X This restaurant or bar has a smoking section on the premises If we print neither symbol then the old rules apply in that smoking is permitted on the premises.

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RESTAURANTS British London Steak House F-3, ul. Krucza 51, tel. 022 827 00 20, www.londonsteakhouse.pl. A dark British themed restaurant with a red phone box outside, and a coat check attendant who looms with menace at the front desk. There’s gimmicks aplenty, from a mannequin of a London copper, to a black cab outside, but it’s the food that maketh a restaurant. Steaks are their forte, though you’d never guess, and the British breakfast is memorable only in the fact it will leave you feeling slightly uncomfortable afterwards. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (33-69zł). TABXSW

Chinese Cesarski Pałac B-2, ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 022 827 97 07, www.cesarski-palac.com.pl. A clean cream décor awaits after a dramtic entrance featuring water fountains and a cacophony of red colours. Expect all the usual suspects on the menu, as well as something enigmatically described as ‘pork knuckle’ in the chairman’s style’ – made according to Mao Tse Tung’s favourite recipe. High standards, and service that warrants extra praise. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 22:00. (34-57zł). TAUXS Hong Kong House E-4, ul. Filtrowa 70, tel. 022 658 00 68, www.hongkonghouse.com.pl. A popular eatery with pastel colour schemes and a range of baffling sounding dishes: duck for real hero and old Chinese style guts being a couple of examples. Interesting. The more standard dishes are consistently good. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 22:00. (24-65zł). TAUXSW

Red Orange A-3, ul. Grzybowska 9, tel. 022 890 98 25, www.redorange.com.pl. A very decent Chinese effort

RESTAURANTS on the doorstep of three top flight hotels. A soothing, casual interior comes with little of the clutter and trumpery found in other restaurants of its genre, while the revamped menu is a vast collection of everything ever served in a Chinese restaurant, including ostrich in oyster sauce and duck in plum sauce. Dishes are delivered to the centre of the table, allowing diners to dive in and taste each others meals. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (24-42zł). ASTUWX

The Oriental G-3, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Plaza), tel. 022 450 67 05, www.sheraton.com.pl. Exquisite dishes at premium prices. The menu covers every kitchen from Japan to Singapore, with the seafood earning particularly high scores. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00; Sat 18:00 - 23:00; Sun 12:00 - 16:00. (69-135zł). TAUXSW

Wook B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 022 630 74 74. Decent, if nothing-special, Chinese inside a red and black interior reminiscent of a Las Vegas cocktail bar. The menu features a range of predictable Chinese dishes, a busy open kitchen, funky bar and several well-dressed students taking the orders. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (4-6zł). GSUW

European Bistro de Paris B-2, pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 022 826 01 07, www.restaurantbistrodeparis.com. The theatre quarter has emerged as the place to be seen, and this top notch establishment cements the upcoming status of the area. This is an excellent dining room that mixes style with substance. The food, prepared in full view of pedestrian traffic on Moliera, is a modern take on classic dishes like duck and veal, while the interior is decorated in a foppish style with dramatic drapes and bottles of wine sitting on the drawers. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (57-97zł). ABTX

Brasserie D-7, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Courtyard by Marriott hotel), tel. 022 650 01 74, www.courtyard. com/wawcy. Head Chef Edward Suchenek has come up with a humdinger of a menu. Start with herring in apple, before moving onto mains like veal chops or the rack of lamb. If your pleasures are more modest then you’ll find standard dishes like burgers and pasta as well. One word of warning, the portions are enormous so don’t snack before hand. QOpen 06:00 - 22:30. (39-96zł). TAUXSW Café Design B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 11, tel. 022 828 57 03. Extreme prices (mineral water - 16zł) reflect the location overlooking the posh Bristol Hotel. Smooth lines and gleaming mahogany generate a casually affluent atmosphere and the windows are big enough to allow pedestrian traffic to stare at you. The food - rolled veal, stewed rabbit - is beautifully presented, but could be vastly improved on. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (39-79zł). ABSTW City Zen C-3, ul. Oboźna 9, tel. 022 211 31 91, www. cityzen.pl. A glass fronted urban space with steel grey walls that come complimented with modern furnishings and paper lanterns hanging from the ceiling. The small menu touts divine renditions of New Zealand lamb, mussels and well presented lighter bites. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (18-56zł). AUBXSW

Czaji C-4, Plac Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 022 584 71 01, www.strefagourmet.pl. Tucked between the Beluga and Embassy venues this is an ornate dining space with light colours, starched linens and an atmosphere that reminds of Versailles. The food is modern Polish and European, with many of recipes made using products found in the Embassy delicatessen next door. Very much a place for high society to

Warsaw In Your Pocket

congregate and already proving a popular spot for afternoon drinks, as well as morning breakfasts, served from seven. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (34-79zł). ASTX

Dekanta F-4, ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, tel. 022 622 45 94, www.dekanta.pl. The uncluttered interior has shades of the Austro-Hapsburg era with its vaulted ceilings, arched windows and staff dressed as promiscuous looking maidens. Flagstone flooring and a bar with wooden casks mounted behind it complete your immersion into days gone by, and the menu is a collection of generous meaty meals like stroganoff and schnitzel.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 01:00, Sat 13:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (22-56zł). TAUEXS

Der Elefant A-2, pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 022 624 79 05. A real old-timer and the profusion of top dining the city now boasts mean Der Elefant is often overlooked. You won’t find gourmet surprises, but the menu reveals all manner of grilled treats that remind of home cooking, washed down with big steins of beer. The interior consists of a rattan furnished conservatory and a pub style back room with a bar and a blue elephants head dangling dangerously from the wall. Not bad at all. QOpen 10:30 - 01:30, Fri 10:30 - 02:00, Sat 11:30 - 02:00, Sun 12:30 - 01:30. (19-39zł). TAGS

Jazz Hotl B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 022 826 74 66. A beautifully designed dining room occupying a part of the former Europejski Hotel. Cream coloured sofas and seats are placed inside a room coloured with soft green and beige shades, evoking an atmosphere that high-society would love. Crowd pleasing jazz performances at the weekend, and a modern menu that is equally pleasing throughout the rest of the week: try the veal escallops. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-56zł). TAUEBXSW

April - May 2007

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RESTAURANTS

RESTAURANTS

Lost Warsaw Having been battered, bullied, burned and bombed so many times in the past it’s perhaps surprising that possibly the grandest structure that ever stood in Warsaw was actually torn down by the locals, no less than 14 years after it was completed. Commissioned by the Governor General of Poland, Joseph Vladimirovich Gourko, work commenced on St Alexander Nevsky Cathedral in 1893 and continued until 1914. Earmarked to serve as place of worship for Warsaw’s ruling Russian community the building was the work of the architect Leontij Benois, a professor in The Tsarist Academy of Fine Arts in St Petersburg. The site, on what is today pl. Piłsudskiego was not chosen by accident; in 1840 the same patch of land was occupied by an obelisk commemorating Polish generals who had collaborated with the Russians during the 1830 November Uprising. It was financed by huge taxes levied by the insufferable Gourko, as well as a collection of funds ordered by Tsar Alexaner III, though Russia’s looming economic crisis meant that construction took 18 years. The results though were staggering. Consisting of five gold plated domes, and a 70 metre bell tower (then the tallest building in Warsaw), the cathedral proved even more dazzling on the inside. Raising comparisons to St Mark’s in Venice, copper and oak main doors led to an interior dripping with oil paintings and icons. Sixteen mosaic panels were designed by Viktor asnetsov, and the building was heavily adorned with precious stones. The cathedral operated as a Russian shrine until 1915 when Warsaw was captured by German forces. The next three years saw it function as a German military church, though the moment Poland gained independence plans were floated to demolish this symbol of Russian hegemony. The debate on what to do with it reigned for years, with arguments including that the building had no artistic value, that the square needed to be freed up for military parades and that the foundations were already sinking. Finally in 1922 the tower was taken down, and between 1924-1926 some 15,000 detonations were set off to rid Warsaw of the cathedral. Not one to miss a mark, the Warsaw magistrate sold public bonds so as to allow every Pole the chance to take part in the iconoclasm. The resulting rubble was used to strengthen the banks of the Wisła and the rescued Finnish granite put to effect in many Warsaw churches. Of the surviving decorations a few of the mosaics can now be viewed at the St Mary Magdalene Church in Praga (one of only two Warsaw orthodox churches to survive the 20s), pulpit and altar pieces in the St Peter and Paul Church in Pyry and icons in the Pokrovy Orthodox Church in Baranowicze, Belarus.

www.inyourpocket.com Malinowa C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Le Royal Meridien Bristol), tel. 022 551 10 00, www.warsaw. lemeridien.com. One of the most elegant dining rooms in Poland, and deemed worth of an entry in the Michelin Guide. Faultless gourmet dining inside the swish confines of the Bristol Hotel. Definitely impressive, with a reputation for its seafood. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (26105zł). AESTUWX

Marconi C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Le Royal Meridien Bristol), tel. 022 551 18 32, www.warsaw. lemeridien.com. More informal than the Malinowa restaurant right next door, this place is still a class ahead of the others. Dishes encompass a variety of influences and run from New York steak to butterfly marinated chicken breast with chilli and lemon. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00. (69-115zł). ABSTUX NEW

Mezza E-3, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton Warsaw Hotel), tel. 022 356 55 76, www.warsaw.hilton.com. The Hilton’s showpiece restaurant, and definitely a place to impress someone important. This is a vast hotel with a convention centre to match, but Meza’s designers have been clever enough to incorporate lots of smart wooden pillars and walls to break up this smart space. A glass wall separates it from the rest of the hotel, affording diners the chance to watch the comings and goings inside Warsaw’s latest five star. The menu meanwhile deserves attention of its own. Created by Knud Bundgaard it presents high end European and Polish choices such as wild boar sausages cooked in onion gravy. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. (38-98zł). TAUXSW Papu F-4, al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 022 856 77 88, www.papucafe.pl. A newish venture from the team behind Zielnik, and equally lauded. The interior is an upmarket collection of palms, flowers and sconces, while the menu comprises of showcase European food prepared with a sense of flair, including tuna steak seared at your table. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (29-69zł). ABISTWX Podwale - Kompania Piwna B-1, ul. Podwale 25, tel. 022 635 63 14. Enter via a mock Bavarian courtyard to discover chambers filled with benches and the sounds of oompah music – sometimes live, sometimes too loud. The portions are obscene, and arrive on wooden boards or in steel pans, adding to the atmosphere of beer hall revelry. Expect plenty of cabbage, and packed tables throughout the day. The best value in old town, and well wor th stopping by if you’re following the tourist trail. Q Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (21-49zł). TJAUEBXS Poezja C-4, ul. Książęca 6, tel. 022 622 67 62. A welldesigned, urbane eatery in the same spot once occupied by Rubikon. The chef remains the same, which is good news for foodies. Initial staffing problems appear to have been dealt with and this restaurant looks like it can look forward to a bright future. The menu is modern European and on the whole highly recommended, though as in most Polish restaurants, be wary of the steak; no matter how you want it cooked expect it to look like it was butchered minutes earlier. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. (19-90zł). ASTW

Warsaw In Your Pocket

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QMVT Villa Foksal C-3, ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. 022 827 87 16. With the atmosphere of a private residence Villa Foksal has a secluded air, easy colour schemes and slick interior that make it a prime pick for the cocktail crowd. The inventive menu is modern European, and although not disappointing the end results lack the magic achieved by numerous nearby eateries. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (26-69zł). AIBX

You & Me C-4, ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 022 420 34 34. A long, glowing bar is lined end-to-end with spirits, and the drinkers that come here are happy to acknowledge the skill of the bar staff. Funk tunes boom under cavernous ceilings, and the modern, chic design appeals to a pre-club crowd. A huge space, but already proving extremely popular. By day a menu that involves dishes like crispy chicken sirloins feeds business bods from the neighbouring offices. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (25-60zł). AESTWX

French Absynt A-4, ul. Wspólna 35, tel. 022 621 18 81. A favourite with the suits and fashionista, the interior proves a svelte backdrop to one of our favourite eateries in town. On the menu, cultured nouvelle cuisine and an impressive wine list. First date dining at its best, though we’re hearing rumours that dining here is not the pleasure it once was. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (40-75zł). ASTUX

Brasserie Stanislas A-3, al. Jana Pawła II 22 (Mercure Hotel), tel. 022 528 03 60. A downtown restaurant with a chic, open interior that appeals to those who do their business and their pleasure in the area. Stewed dishes and venison have been introduced to the revamped menu which features an interesting mix of French and Polish cuisine. Also home to

what is recognized as one of the best steak tartares around.

QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (34-95zł). ASTUWX

La Rotisserie B-1, ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Regina hotel), tel. 022 531 60 70, www.leregina.com. An intimate restaurant with vaulted ceilings and calming cream and caramel colour schemes. Occupying a part of the boutique hotel Le Regina this is a superb indulgence if you’re looking to make an impression on someone special. Head chef Paweł Oszczyk isn’t afraid to experiment, and he’s created a menu that blends the best of Polish and French cooking. Try the pork shank braised in beer, or for dessert strawberry soup with mint and black pepper. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00; Sat, Sun 07:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 23:00. (70-130zł). TAUGBW Prowansja G-4, ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 022 621 42 58, www.prowansja.pl. The interior is a wrought iron battlefield punctuated with extras that could have been stolen from Versailles. Block out the surroundings and you’ll be rewarded with high mark cooking. Our stewed rabbit in Dijon mustard was divine, while one reader claims their sole as ‘the best in Warsaw’. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (3259zł). TAEBXS

Fusion Fusion E-2, al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 022 450 86 31. Beautifully presented food in a modern though frequently empty interior. The menu is tiny and largely made up of experimental fish dishes, but the results are definitely worth the visit. The halibut comes lightly battered, complemented with a sprinkling of tabouleh salad and vegetable tempura. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 22:30; Sat, Sun 07:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 22:30. (30-139zł). TAUEXS

April - May 2007

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RESTAURANTS KOM B-3, ul. Zielna 37a, tel. 022 338 63 53. An impressive space worthy of the praise that’s been heaped on it. Formerly a telephone exchange, the building is pre-war restored with authentic reclaimed period originals – the toilet floor is from Berlin, while the basement features telephone cables which apparently relayed secret discussions between Churchill and Stalin. The menu - recently updated, thankfully simplified - features food from across the world, and it’s cracking stuff; Tiger Prawns with mango, Indian bene and Israeli chutney. Of note is the drinks menu, which includes a staggering choice of whisky. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 00:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (35-85zł). TAEBXSW

Kwai B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 64, tel. 022 621 21 81, www.kwai.pl. A great space with sunny views of Marzałkowska, and an open, airy atmosphere accentuated by the choice of simple white and brown colours. Oriental keepsakes handpicked from designer stores create enough visual diversions to keep the interiors alive, while Warsaw’s best photograph - three Asian police goons - keeps a vigilant eye on diners. More often than not guests will be met by the two South Korean sisters behind this venture, and they’ll guide you through a menu that combines the very best of Korea and Thailand. If they’re not on hand with their own personal recommendations we suggest opting for the Tan Ori - duck breast served in ginger and orange sauce. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 22:30. (30-76zł). TABXS

Moonsfera ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4 (Polish Olympic Association building), tel. 022 560 37 33, www.moonsfera. pl. A magnificent rooftop venue whose curved glass windows allow views of nighttime Warsaw as she glitters below. Split across various sections, including a blissfully luxurious lounge, this chic venue offers a range of international fusion with dishes

RESTAURANTS that include duck glazed with ginger and caramel, served on plum puree. Finish off with cocktails at the blond wood bar. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (41-63zł). AGSTUW

Orchidea B-3, ul. Szpitalna 3, tel. 022 827 34 36, www.restauracjaorchidea.pl. A profusion of plants, weird lamps and decorations apparently imported from Morocco generate an exotic atmosphere, and the chef does the rest of the legwork cooking up a range of Thai-influenced fusion dishes. A couple of dishes to keep your eyes peeled for: duck in cherry sauce, and the fish soup with coconut milk. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (21-38zł). ABSTX

Papaya C-3, ul. Foksal 16, tel. 022 826 11 99, www.papaya. waw.pl. An ultra clinical stark white interior is accentuated by the occasional violet dash; this must be what Buck Rogers’ latest spaceship would look like. From an open kitchen the chefs display their full repertoire, showing off every trick in the book as they create dishes like steamed bass in banana leaf, char grilled jumbo prawns and sushi sets. One of the best meals in Warsaw and highly recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (16-250zł). ABSTWX

Sense C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 022 826 65 70, www.sensecafe.com. One of the success stories of modern Warsaw, and one of the reasons why fusion food became so big in this city. Sense just keep getting it right with first class service and an experimental, flirty sounding menu that continues to push boundaries. Choose from dishes like tempura fish and chips and Madame Curie’s curry inside a lounge like dining area that throbs with the cigarette slim. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 12:00. (35-56zł). ABSTX

German Adler C-4, ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 022 628 73 84, www.adlerrestauracja.pl. Huge helpings of sausage and schnitzel served by girls dressed as Heidi. A favourite with an older corporate crowd, it’s a tight, rotund space packed cluttered with pots, pans and beer mugs. But any hopes of alcoholic misadventure are tempered by the serious business types who choose to do their corporate feeding here. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (37-59zł). AST

Greek Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 022 672 05 25, www.kregliccy.pl. Not bad, but with it’s Praga location this is quite literally a bridge too far for many. The background of whitewashed walls and suchlike provides pleasant escapist value and the menu of octopus, moussaka and lamb rarely disappoints. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (29-59zł). AEISTUX

Healthy Eating Biosfeera F-6, al. Niepoległości 80 (enter from ul. Odyńca), tel. 022 898 01 55. An ultra-funky interior full of hanging canvas lamps, orange dashes and shining wood finishes generates the hip atmosphere normally lacking in Polish vegetarian haunts. The tabolleuh salad is a fantastic way to prime yourself for the meat-

Full contents online: www.inyourpocket.com Warsaw In Your Pocket

less main courses that come with names like Szpinakolada and Tortilla Kama Sutra. Freshly squeezed juices and fruit cocktails come as refreshment, and expect the thousand-yard stare if you ask for a beer and an ashtray. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (18-29zł). AB6STUWG

Greenway C-4, ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 022 621 64 47, www. greenway.pl. Packed at all hours. The dishes are not inspirational, and frequently resemble plates of mashed beetroot, but this canteen style affair offers healthy decent fare at prices that cannot be faulted. A healthier more pleasant step up from the milk bar experience, this is the new face of Polish budget dining. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. (10-12zł). AGBS

Sadhu Cafe E-1, ul. Wałowa 3, tel. 022 635 81 39, www. sadhucafe.pl. Formerly a boiler plant, this basement restaurant offers apparently healthy eating inside a soothing wooden interior sparingly decorated with Indian tablecloths. On first sight the menu reads like code, with dishes named ‘Raga in the Key of Mint’ (curried vegetables) and ‘Mumbai Mamma’ (mushrooms and pasta in curry) - what’s wrong with straight English? QOpen 16:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (9-40zł). AEGIST

Hungarian Borpince B-3/4, ul. Zgoda 1, tel. 022 828 22 44, www. borpince.pl. Austrian-Hungarian cuisine has landed in Warsaw and Borpince proves a smashing background to enjoy big portions at small prices. Good trout, as well as the signature Hungarian dish: goulash. Keep your eye out for their Brunch Buffet each Saturday and Sunday (12:00-16:00). If your pleasures are more liquid then you’ll be pleased to know they are primarily a wine bar, as the stack of bottles on the shelf-space affirms. We counted over 58 on their list, and are assured there are more lurking around. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (12-62zł). TAXS

April - May 2007

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RESTAURANTS Saski One piece of lost Warsaw is set to rise again is the Saski Palace, formerly located in the grounds of Saski Park (B-2). Originally the residence of the Morsztyn family the building was purchased by King Augustus II and substantially enlarged and used by both him and his successor, Augustus III. Off-topic, but nevertheless worth airing, amateur historians will delight in learning that Augustus II sired 12 children by different women, while his successor managed to match the number, only this time staying loyal to his wife in the process. Back on track, when Augustus III passed away (shagged out most likely) the building fell into disuse before being rented out for accommodation. Between 1806-1816 the Prussians established Warsaw Lyceum on the premises, and conflicting evidence suggests that Chopin either lived there for a time, or that his father taught French in one of the outbuildings. Extensively remodelled in 1842 the Palace finally assumed its best known shape in 1925 when the Tomb of the Unknown soldier was added to the series of colonnades used to link the two wings together. Serving as the seat of the Polish General Staff after WWI it was here that the German Enigma Code was first cracked by local science boffins. WWII signaled the end of the Palace and it was flattened by retreating Nazi troops, with only the Tomb of the Unknown soldier surviving the blasts. But the story continues. In a rare act of foresight the city of Warsaw has decided to cover the 201 million złoty cost of rebuilding Saski Palace. Budimex Dromex have been awarded the tender to undertake the work and the façade, thanks to blueprints made available by the Central Military Archive, will look just like it did in 1939. It’s not known what will occupy the space, with ideas ranging from a Museum of Polish History to an institute dedicated to the thoughts of Pope John Paul II. Completion is set for 2010, though so far building work has not entirely gone to plan. Although sappers failed to find any undetonated devices, builders have since come across over 10,000 rare archaeological finds including baroque sculptures, secret tunnels, ancient wells, German helmets and wine glasses bearing August III’s monogram. The one problem being that no provision was made for discoveries of this scale, meaning that many of the treasures recovered have since corroded after being incorrectly stored.

THE BEST INDIAN RESTAURANT IN POLAND

Indian India Curry C-4, ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 022 438 93 50, www.indiacurry.pl. The murgh makhani, described on the menu as ‘barbecued chicken tossed in creamy tomato gravy’, is outstanding, and perfectly paired by a glass of ginger lemon juice. The rest of the menu features meats and vegetarian dishes from across India with firepower ranging from mild to blistering. A spacious interior comes decorated with a fountain and pictures of mythical Indian figures. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (28-40zł). TAUXS

Maharaja G-4, ul. Marszałkowska 34/50, tel. 022

TANDOOR PALACE

THE UNDISPUTED BEST INDIAN RESTAURANT IN WARSAW SERVING POLAND’S BEST CURRY

621 13 92, www.maharaja.com.pl. Frequented by those who don’t know that better curry can be found right round the corner at the Tandoor Palace. Climb to the top floor via a shabby staircase and you’ll be met with a dowdy interior painted in faded pink shades. Not dissimilar from a student quarter Brit curryhouse, with curries that will fill but little more. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (20-50zł). ASTX

Namaste India C-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 022 357 09 39, www.namasteindia.pl. Serving as a lifeline for those expats who find themselves chained to the office desk Namaste deliver divine Indian dishes the length and breadth of Warsaw. If you prefer to eat on their own patch then you’ll be surprised to learn that this masterpiece is not even a proper restaurant, rather a pokey Indian grocery store with two flimsy tables set aside for diners. Out in the back the pungent aroma of thick spices serves as a teaser to what transpires to be some of the finest ethnic food in Warsaw. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (1220zł). GBS Tandoor Palace G-4, ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 022 825 23 75, www.tandoor.com.pl. The stamping ground of the Warsaw Curry Club, and as the accolades that line the stairs suggest, this is still one of top curries you’ll find in Central Europe. The chicken tikka butter masala deserves praise of its own, though if you’re looking for something to liven the long winter evenings then opt for the Singaporean sizzlers. Charanjit Walia, raconteur and proprietor, can frequently be found walking between the tables, trading jokes with the Palace’s customers. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (16-70zł). TAS

Indonesian Galeria Bali Buddha Club B-3, ul. Jasna 22, tel. 022 828 67 71, www.galeriabali.pl. Buddha Club brings Bali to your doorstep with a stunning incense-filled interior. Cast iron statuettes of Indonesian icons stand posed in prayer, the exotic theme complimented by palms bursting from hollowed tree trunks. The menu therefore really ruins the show with beautifully exotic dishes tempered right down to please conservative local tastebuds. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (25470zł). TAXS

International

THE WINNER OF THE 28TH INTERNATIONAL AWARD FOR THE TOURIST, HOTEL AND CATERING INDUSTRY (MADRID, JANUARY 2003)

AVAILABLE FOR OUTSIDE CATERING, PRIVATE PARTIES, BANQUETS AND RECEPTIONS. HOME TO THE CURRY CLUB OF WARSAW TAKE AWAY AVAILABLE UL. MARSZAŁKOWSKA 21/25, WARSAW TEL. 022 825 23 75, WWW.TANDOOR.COM.PL, [email protected] WE ALSO OFFER A SPECIAL PACKAGE FOR VISITORS TO WARSAW. THIS INCLUDES:

99 Restaurant E-2, al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 022

Full contents online: www.inyourpocket.com Warsaw In Your Pocket

620 19 99, www.restaurant99.com. A sunny Californian-style bistro which has been high on the expat list of dining favourites since the dinosaur age. The service is superb, honed by years of dealing with demanding foreigners dressed in collars and cufflinks. The menu is still pretty strong; big, well-designed servings of New Zealand lamb, steak, king prawns and other premium dishes. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (53-73zł). TAUES

IN-HOUSE MEALS

TAKE AWAY

FREE TRANSPORT TO THE RESTAURANT FROM YOUR HOTEL (BOOK THROUGH YOUR HOTEL RECEPTION OR CONCIERGE)

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10% DISCOUNT FROM MENU PRICES (UPON PRESENTATION OF YOUR DOOR KEY)

5% DISCOUNT ON TAKE AWAY ORDERS

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RESTAURANTS www.inyourpocket.com Atrio A-3, al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 022 653 96 00, www. atrio.waw.pl. We’re not in the habit of dishing out awards, but if we were this would scoop the best newcomer gong. The veal simmered in Canadian maple syrup and served with bison grass sauce was our favourite meal of 2006, and the menu here bursts with similar modern international inventions. White/ black colours and large windows lend a chic, modern aesthetic to Atrio, while the black clad service has been expertly schooled in their job. Positioned between some of Warsaw’s best hotels, the future of this restaurant looks assured. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (24-69zł). AUXS Bazaar B-3, ul. Jasna 14/16a, tel. 022 826 85 85, www.bazaar.com.pl. As the cutlery laid on the tables suggests, this is restaurant first and bar second. Leave your coat at the front desk before settling into an interior with shiny dark woods and a modern look that is juxtaposed with the addition of touches like gilded mirrors and a huge velvet sofa. A top-to-bottom glass frontage allows for outside views while enjoying a menu that features lamb stewed in cinnamon bark, and pork served in krupnik vodka. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (38-79zł). ABETUWX

Biblioteka C-3, ul. Dobra 56/66 (University of Warsaw Library), tel. 022 552 71 95, www.hotel. com.pl. Smooth and stylish Biblioteka has long been considered one of the top spots in the city. The seasonal menu includes quality options like saddle of pickled rabbit and venison with goats cheese, both cooked and served with competence. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (40-80zł). ASTU

RESTAURANTS Bierhalle

Dyspensa G-4, ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. 022 629 99 89,

D-1, al. Jana Pawłą II 82 (Arkadia), tel. 022 323 68 55, www.bierhalle.pl. Warsaw’s best beer is the primary reason to visit, but this place is no one trick pony. To call this place a microbrewery is a little misguiding; Bierhalle is vast, and the menu sits up on a level with many more expensive restaurants. Portions are enormous, and aside from hefty beer food like sausages and herring the kitchen even manages to stretch to producing decent tortillas. A visit is here is not to be missed. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (17-45zł). TAUEXSW

www.restauracjadyspensa.pl. Newly redecorated though Dyspensa has lost none of its country kitchen ambiance. In the heart of embassyland, so a good place to eavesdrop the hushed conversation of your ambassador. On the menu Polish and European dishes, including a recommended grilled duck in chanterelle sauce. Of the new features, the expanded wine cellar is most welcome. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (4676zł). ASW

NEW

Bistr o a la Four chette B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Europejski Hotel), tel. 022 826 79 36, www.ukucharzy.pl. At long last Warsaw has a 24 hour eatery that doesn’t involve queuing for a kebab while being pestered by tramps picking at festering sores. Occupying a spot in the former Europejski Hotel this venture is the creation of the Gessler clan, and unlike their other restaurants prices here are tag ged at 8zł across the board. Choose from snacks like pigs trotters and herring before tucking in at a street facing counter. Q Open 24hrs. AUBS

Boston Port ul. Okolska 2, tel. 022 844 03 15, www.bostonport.pl. A tiny but award-winning kitchen with an unassuming seafaring motif and a menu that includes steaks, seafood, and lighter bites more suited for the summer seasons. A friendly welcome throughout the year, with a more central location just added on ul. Żelazna 32 (A-4). QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (15-50zł). ABGS

¿ðåãìòçìãß잤žÎíêçñæžÁóñçìã Äßëíóñžäíðžçòñžž ¿ðåãìòçìãßìžñòãßéñž ßìâžåßóáæížäðçãñŸ Âëçìöìòïßòðæëâððéòëàåßòããâñ ÊìëáÞöªÃïæáÞö®¯«­­ª®²«­­

Foksal 19 C-3, ul. Foksal 19, tel. 022 829 29 55, www.foksal19. pl. Designer dishes presented in an upmarket, trendy environment that proves the perfect way to impress dinner dates. The menu includes rare treats like Marlin steak with couscous, or venison in cassis sauce and bison grass vodka. Now open throughout the day, and popular for high-powered work lunches. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. (35-89zł). AEXSW

Fret@Porter B-1, ul. Freta 37, tel. 022 635 37 54. Once a beacon of culinary invention, standards have been eclipsed and Fret@Porter is no-more than a decent stop off while touring around the new town area. Décor remains a mix of decadent drapes and strange artwork, and could do with sprucing up, and the gazpacho - our favourite in Warsaw - has disappeared from the menu. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (28-58zł). JAUEB

Grand Kredens F-3, al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 022 629 80 08, www. kredens.com.pl. The grand daddy of the expat dining experience. Kredens haven’t changed in years, and still offer a vast menu of everything from calamari to game – all of which are cooked to the highest standard. The interior could be a film set, with lampposts, bicycles and deep sea divers helmets filling the spaces that aren’t occupied by suits taking advantage of their expense accounts. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (45-95zł). TAUIEBS

Kareta ul. Mickiewicza 23, tel. 022 839 01 45, w w w.kar eta.pl. A n e quin e m oti f prevail s in t hi s popular Żoliborz café; beast skins cover the benches, and framed drawings of car thorses fill all possible wall space. Home made honey is available and guests can sample a truly impressive list of spring waters. But unless you like Polish stodge, you’ll probably want to be eating your dinner elsewhere. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. (23-49zł). ABS Kurt Scheller’s Restaurant

ATRIO Restaurant & Bar an excellent place for EVENING WINING & DINING, business lunch and delicious breakfast

Opening hours 8 am – 12 pm closed on Sunday al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 022 6539600 [email protected] www.atrio.waw.pl only 20 meters away from The Westin, Radisson SAS and Mercure hotels

International & Polish cuisine

F-4, ul. Wilcza 73 (Rialto hotel), tel. 022 584 87 71, www.hotelrialto.com.pl. Arguably the most talked about chef in Poland, Kurt Scheller is the engine behind the Hotel Rialto’s restaurant. Wonderful interpretations of Polish and European dishes, beautiful interiors and outstanding service. A revelation. QOpen 06:30 - 22:30. (52-120zł). AUXWX

Latino Brasserie@ferdy’s A-3, ul. Grzybowska 24 ÐßâçññíìžÑ¿ÑžÁãìòðóëžÆíòãꪞÕßðñøßõß ó꬞Åðø÷àíõñéߞ°² òã긞°°ž±°¯¶¶°° Íîã츞¯°¸®®«°±¸®®

Warsaw In Your Pocket

(Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel), tel. 022 321 88 22, www.ferdys.com.pl. Veneered surfaces and potted shrubs generate a prosperous atmosphere redolent of an ocean liner. On the menu, take your pick from a list that takes its influences from Polish and Argentinean cooking; steak platters and gaucho fries. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (45-79zł). TAUBXSW

April - May 2007

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RESTAURANTS Lila Weneda F-3, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott

NEW

Hotel), tel. 022 630 51 76, www.marriott.com/wawpl. Nowadays open for breakfast only, but what breakfasts. Whether you’re a hotel guest or not Lila Weneda remains second to none for a seriously upmarket start to the day. QOpen 06:30 - 11:00. Open Sun 06:30 - 11:00, 12:00 - 17:00. TAUXS

The Olive G-3, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Hotel), tel. 022

Między Słowami B-4, ul. Chmielna 30, tel. 022 826 74 68, w w w. miedzyslowami.com.pl. A relaxed living room space with floral sofas, crimson wallpapering and vases of flowers; a great background if you’re looking for something a little more alternative to modern Warsaw coffee culture. Regular quiz nights draw the brain-boxes, and the courtyard garden is great for evening drinks. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:30 - 24:00. (8-19zł). AW

Passe Partout ul. Zwycięzców 21, tel. 022 616 28 82, www.passepartout.pl. One of the best places you’ll find on Warsaw’s right bank. Passe Partout deserve all the success they get with a bold menu that incorporates everything from quesadillas to Japanese noodles to home-made pierogi. It’s an ambitious attempt, but the chef knows what he’s doing. The modern interiors feature plenty of deep, pale sofas, though the real highlight is their back garden; an oasis of tranquility. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (1749zł). TAUBXS

Pod Gigantami C-4, al. Ujazdowskie 24, tel. 022 621 30 59, www.podgigantami.pl. A new venture, though look around the classic furnishings and you could easily be in the thick of a 19th century period drama. Top-class, knowledgeable service flits between the tables, which come tucked amid a series of dining chambers decorated with marble busts and gilt framed fittings. The menu is typically high-end with examples being deer or duck served in lemon and honey. You won’t find yourself with much in the way of small change, but this is set to become one of the elite dining experiences in the city. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (54-68zł). AESTX Qchnia Artystyczna G-4, al. Ujazdowskie 6 (Zamek Ujazdowski), tel. 022 625 76 27, www.qchnia.pl. A castle location, superb parkland views and a minimalist interior which uses bits and pieces of abstract art will be your reason for turning up. The experimental menu can disappoint on occasions. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (27-52zł). ABSTX

Rubikon ul. Wróbla 3/5, tel. 022 847 66 55, www. rubikon.waw.pl. Warsaw foodies will be familiar with Rubikon in their previous incarnation as a side street eatery just off pl. Trzech Krzyży. The team have relocated across town, now plying their trade inside a restored pre-war villa tastefully fitted with cream tones and dark woods. The menu is as good as we remember, with dishes like rabbit or duck in honey and lemon sauce prepared with flair. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (46-64zł). ABITX

Studio Buffo G-3, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, tel. 022 626 89 07, www. studiobuffo.com.pl/restauracja. Once a culinary pace-setter, the explosion of Warsaw’s fine dining scene sees Buffo plunge way down the rankings. Popular for clandestine business meetings the wood heavy interior has a contemproary Swedish aesthetic, though the menu – modern Polish/European – is not as good as one expects for this area of town. QOpen 09:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:30 - 23:00. (18-55zł). ABESTUW

Warsaw In Your Pocket

450 67 06, www.sheraton.com.pl. Modern Mediterranean cuisine served in a curvy glass room attached to the Sheraton. On the menu expect the freshest continental recipes, as well as a page set aside for Polish food. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00; Fri 07:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun 07:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 22:00. (50-120zł). AERSTUW

U Szwejka F-4, pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 022 339 17 10, www.uszwejka.pl. We love it. Foodies will run for the hills; this is brash, basic beer food, namely big platters of meat served with potatoes and cabbage. It won’t win gastro prizes, but it will keep the cold at bay, and the interior of light woods and drinking memorabilia serves as a pleasant background to defrost inside in. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (17-39zł). AESTX

Zadra A-2, ul. gen. Wł. Andersa 29, tel. 022 831 96 68, www.restauracjazadra.pl. Unable to accommodate all the paintings collected over the years the owners have stored their surplus in Zadra, a restaurant and gallery where everything from the cutlery to the wardrobes has a price. It’s a concept that works well and the theatrical interiors are ideal for highbrow dinners. Those who value their privacy will appreciate the VIP room that is soon to be unveiled, complete with its own private entrance for the times you wish to exit without alerting the attentions of the waiting paparazzi. The menu is suitably high-end and features dishes like skewered shrimps served in chili sauce, and lamb chops in cranberry sauce. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (20-50zł). AESTUWX

Italian Arsenał A-2, ul. Długa 52 (enter from ul. Andersa), tel. 022 635 83 77. One of the largest menus you’ll ever find inside a smart wooden interior. Authentic recipes are cooked using ingredients imported from Italy, with our recommendation being the chicken in pomegranate sauce – delicious. At weekends an indoor play area make it a favourite with couples with kids, while during the week expect a steady crowd of business sorts taking hushed lunches over a glass of wine. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (20-70zł). ASTUX Bacio F-3, ul. Wilcza 43, tel. 022 626 83 03, www. bacio.pl. Share space with romancing couples and business types clinching deals inside a froufrou interior decorated with vines and cherubs. On the menu a mix of Polish and Italian dishes, including a divine pepper steak. QOpen 12:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (25-87zł). AST Bacio Di Angelo G-3, ul. Wilcza 8, tel. 022 622 44 54, www.bacio.pl. A great place to indulge someone special. A pet project from the same team behind Bacio this gastronomic standout is what happens when cupid meets cooking. A beautiful interior of flowery tablecloths and wooden furniture generates the perfect atmosphere for a romantic rendezvous, and the dishes come sent straight from the heavens. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (25-65zł). AIST

Balgera G-5, ul. Sandomierska 13 (entrance from ul. Rejtana 14), tel. 022 849 56 74, www.balgera.pl. One of Warsaw’s leading restaurants, with a committed fanbase proclaiming this as the number one Italian spot in the city. Stylishly uncluttered, Balgera combines clean design with five star cooking that comes courtesy of imported chefs. Northern Italian food at its best, and the panna cotta makes for a terrific dessert. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (30-100zł). AIS

GREAT ITALIAN DISHES Warm and elegant atmosphere Warsaw, 14 Reytana St., +48 22 849 56 74 www.balgera.pl

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RESTAURANTS Sunday Brunch Sunday brunch is not just a typically expat excuse to hit the wine, but also a great way of eating well and enjoying good times while the kids run around in the background. Most places will have qualified child minders. Note that prices and details do change as hotels and venues try different promotions. Blue Cactus From 12:00 – 15:00. 72zł for adults, 10zł for those under 12. Tex Mex cuisine, but no free alcohol. Hyatt Hotel’s Venti Tre restaurant From 12:00 – 16:00. 135zł per person, (68zł for those between six and twelve, free for those under six). Hot and cold meals, plus sushi, as well as wine, beer and soft drinks. Kids section comes with TV, toys and a separate menu of pizza, fries and the like. Hard Rock Café Will be launching brunch in mid April. Each Saturday and Sunday 12:00 – 16:00, no price details at press time. Hilton’s Meza Launching Sunday Brunch from May 1. From 12:30 – 16:00, 146zł per person. Children under 10 free. Included in the price is beer, white and red wine, and a kids corner equipped with games, Playstation, babysitter and special menu. InterContinental’s Downtown Restaurant From 12:30 – 16:00 135 złoty wins you access to the buffet bar and beer and wine. Sushi bar, Mexican cuisine and live music. Half price for kids between the ages 6-12, and free for those under six. The kids corner features a child carer, and special menu. Le Royal Meridien Bristol’s Marconi restaurant From 12:30 – 16:30. 145zł (half price for children, kids under six free) gets as much wine as you can drink and an international buffet including caviar and homemade pasta. The children corner has a babysitter, toys and games. Hotel Marriott’s Lila Weneda restaurant A Sunday institution. From 12:00 – 17:00 a fee of 145zł (children from 6-14 years old half price, under six free), gets unlimited Żywiec, white and red wine and soft drinks. Buffet spreads include a sushi bar, salad bar, Mexican, Italian and international food. In the kids corner a clown keeps things lively, and the menu includes pizza, pancakes and fish fingers. Sheraton Hotel From 12:00 – 16:00. One of the most popular brunch experiences in the city. Cost is 139zł (children from 4-12 are half price, under four free), which gets you unlimited booze and a choice of Mediterranean and Asian. In the kids corner, a babysitter, Playstation, toys and games. The Westin Hotel’s Fusion restaurant From 12:00 – 16:00. 139zł, (half price for those between 5 and 12 years, free for those under four), which includes hot and cold fusion dishes, white and red wine and even the possibility of getting a Mongolian wok to your table. The kids corner comes with toys, Playstation and separate menu.

Warsaw In Your Pocket

Compagnia Del Sole B-2, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 022 827 03 51, www.compagniadelsole.pl. The Compagnia team have upped sticks and moved from Żurawia to the theatre quarter, and somewhere along the way they’ve managed to lose the crowds that made their former location so successful. The new look Del Sole still features a canteen style buffet selection, though the surrounds are decidedly more upmarket. The ordering process remains a logistical minefield, though the final results - aided by produce direct from Italy -aren’t too bad at all. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (19-54zł). TABSW

Chianti C-3, ul. Foksal 17, tel. 022 828 02 22, www.kregliccy.pl. A reliably romantic choice for a date, though Warsaw now has far superior Italian choices. A candle lit vaulted cellar is your setting, and it’s still best to book a table in advance. Prices are ambitiously marked, but you’ll leave happy enough providing someone else foots the bill. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. (23-52zł). AERSTX

Il Sole A-3, al. Jana Pawła II 27, tel. 022 653 64 84, www.ilsole.com.pl. An interesting design featuring blown up pictures of Italian street life, huge paper lamps and cloth backed seating hovers on the tasteful side of kitsch, while the menu rounds off the menu with successful interpretations of everything that the Italian kitchen has become famous for. We opted for pork fillet in gorgonzola sauce and were not left disappointed. A great discovery, with additional boxes ticked for proficient service from attractive girls and prices that won’t have you defaulting on your monthly rent. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (32-46zł). TAUEBXSW

Pappa Grappa G-5, ul. Puławska 16, tel. 022 849 44 42, www.pappagrappa.pl. Behind the frosted glass windows Pappa Grappa is Warsaw’s latest Italian adventure, and already winning its spurs with glowing reviews in the local press columns. A warm trattoria interior is the setting for trad Italian meals cooked by the Sicilian chef, and there’s plenty of nooks and corners to enjoy private dalliances with the other half. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (28-69zł). ASX Parmizzano’s B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott hotel), tel. 022 630 50 96, www.marriott.com/wawpl. Excellent food served in the serious, exclusive surrounds of the Marriott. Head chef Gregorz Goleń has proved a master of his craft, with the menu frequently changing with the season to focus on different aspects of Italian cooking. High-quality ingredients, a stellar wine list and expert service combine to make this one of the elite restaurants in Warsaw. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (38-115zł). AESTUX Roma G-5, ul. Grottgera 2, tel. 022 841 01 33, www. restauracjaroma.pl. Stuffed with dusty bottles and dripping candles Roma provides an intimate background for first dates. The menu is huge, with an encyclopedic choice of Italian standards as well as a list of grill food. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 21:00. (2565zł). ASTUX

www.inyourpocket.com

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RESTAURANTS Rusticoni

RESTAURANTS www.inyourpocket.com

F-3, ul. Wilcza 35/41, tel. 022 622 56 54, www.rusticoni.pl. The Italian proprietor is committed to excellence here, with ingredients and chefs imported from his native land and staff well schooled in the art of expert service. As night settles the dim lighting casts a romantic glow onto this chic cream-coloured spot, and the food lures in a mixed bag of courting couples and foreign diplomats. We started with stuffed king prawns served with a cognac sauce, before moving to a delicious tagliolini with crayfish. A new seafood menu includes dorada in sea salt, a perfect precursor to one of the best panna cottas we’ve tasted. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (28-60zł). ABSTWX

G-4, ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, tel. 022 621 69 73. Once the darling of expat epicureans Venezia consists of two rooms: one decorated in trattoria style, the other with trashy Venetian murals; you’ll find most people prefer to do their dining in the astro-turfed garden. The menu is vast, which always raises concerns, and you’ll find many of Venezia’s former plaudits taking their dinner elsewhere. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (25-120zł). ASTUX

San Antonio

Venti Tre

B-2, ul. Senatorska 37, tel. 022 826 30 08. An oasis of opulence tacked on the edge of Saski Park. Elegant dining doesn’t get much better. The luxurious Venetian-style ambience is ideal for enjoying a drawn-out romantic meal while the upscale menu includes such delicacies as grilled calamari. It’s certainly up there alongside Warsaw’s other top-grade Italian restaurants. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (2739zł). TAEBXS

G-5, ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 022 558 12 34, www. warsaw.regency.hyatt.com. It’s no surprise to find such an outstanding meal in one of Warsaw’s premier hotels. An open plan kitchen and giant glass windows allow for a more informal atmosphere than one would expect while the chef never fails to deliver nothing less than top quality. It’s almost embarrassing to order pizza in a place like this, but the woodfired oven is the source of the best pizza we’ve tried in the city and that’s reason enough to swallow any culinary snobbism. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. (48-65zł). TAUXS

San Lorenzo E-2, al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 022 652 16 16, www.sanlorenzo.pl. A swank restaurant with photos by the door check affirming that this is where dozens of minor celebs choose to eat dinner. By Polish standards the prices are astronomic, though they’ll still barely make a dent in your Western expense account. The food is pretty decent, and the chef prepares a great pepper steak. In spite of the candles and the occasionally cheesy live music this is definitely more aimed at the corporate diner as opposed to romancing lotharios. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (32-77zł). ABISU

Venezia

Japanese Akashia D-1, ul. Jana Pawła II 61/204, tel. 022 636 67 67, www.akashia.pl. The Japanese dishes are superb, though it’s the Korean menu that caught our fancy. If you’re dining for two try the grill dishes, prepared at your table, and perfectly washed down with a glass of Japanese mulled plum wine. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (35-45zł). ASTU

ì㥗ÅæîæÞéæÛñâؗ¯«—¦—¯­——ó——ëÜã¦ÝØ綾¢«¯—©©—­©©—¬°—¬¬¦¬­——ó——îîî¥àåØÙØ¥Úæä¥çã Hana Sushi D-1, ul. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia Shopping Mall), tel. 022 331 75 18, www.hanasushi.pl. Arkadia shopping mall-stationed sushi restaurant that proves Warsaw’s top mall is more than just a shopping trip. A modern interior is tempered with Samurai swords, flower arrangements and sheets of canvas hanging from the walls, and black-robed chefs prepare everything from seafood goulash soup, to steamed lobster to standard sushi options. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (21-65zł). TAUBXSW

Inaba B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 022 622 59 55, www.inaba.com.pl. Here’s a restaurant that was around years before sushi became a fashion statement. Japanese owned and run everything about Inaba strives for authenticity, and this is one of only three places in town that can claim a Japanese master chef calling the shots in the kitchen. A pleasantly panelled interior creates a great atmosphere and those who want more than just raw fish should take a look at the grill dishes: try the duck in teriyaki sauce. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (20-58zł). TAEXS

Izumi F-4, ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel. 022 825 79 50. Warsaw’s sushi boom shows no sign of flattening out, and with places like this opening its no surprise. A hyper trendy background is the setting for a delightful Japanese experience tha guarantees return visits. After years of being overlooked Plac Zbawiciela finally feels it’s stirring into life, and Izumi should shoulder much of the credit. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (29-67zł). TAGBSW

So-An F-4, ul. Koszykowa 54 (enter from ul. Lwowska), tel. 022 630 81 00, www.so-an.pl. A well-designed space featuring thatched ceilings, paper lanterns and chefs sporting Mr Miyagi style headbands - sometimes upside down. Aesthetics aside So-An serves average sushi in a market that is now seriously competitive. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (25-49zł). ASTUX

Sushi 77 E-3, ul. Żelazna 41, tel. 022 890 18 11, www. sushi77.com. Imaginative sushi sets - try the Californian rolls - served inside a hyper-stark metallic interior. Does Warsaw need another sushi stop? If they’re as decent as this then why not. Also deliver across the city. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-49zł). ASX

Sushi Teatr B-2, pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 022 826 47 87. Shock white colour schemes, soft lighting and a designer atmosphere inside Warsaw’s most exclusive sushi address. In return for a small fortune expect beautifully presented dishes prepared by a team of master chefs. This is essential dining. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (18-100zł). AGBS

Noodle Bar A-4, ul. Żelazna 41, (enter from ul. Sienna), tel. 022 890 20 00. No sushi, and not just noodles but a whole host of Jap treats ranging from dumplings filled with duck to grilled prawns in teriyaki sauce. The interior is compact and pleasantly fitted in dark Oriental woods. A decent experience, with prices that won’t leave the bank balance seeing stars. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (27-49zł). ASX

Tokio C-2, ul. Dobra 17, tel. 022 827 46 32. Contrary to the belief that sushi can only be tremendously good or tremendously bad, Tokio’s sushi actually strikes us as middleof-the-road. The pieces are medium sized, the prices moderate, and the flavours are not quite as tasty as they could be. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (28-98zł). AST

Piccolo Bacio C-3, ul. Hoża 58/60, (enter from ul.

Tomo C-4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 022 434 23 44, www.

Poznańska), tel. 022 622 66 65. A bijou dining room with familiar service and an interesting interior featuring foliage hanging from the ceiling and pictures of butterflies on the walls. The menu is split between expertly prepared Japanese and Italian cuisine, with the curry chicken pasta being a particular favourite of ours. As evening sets Piccolo becomes a great place to woo prospective dates. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (9-69zł). ASU

tomo.pl. One of the best sushi bars in Poland, Tomo is an attractive venue, reguarly filled with monied twenty somethings holding court around the bar and keeping an eye on expensive motors parked outside. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (37-95zł). AEGSTUW

Republica Latina (Made In Japan) C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 1, tel. 022 331 13 11, www.republicalatina. pl. Flavourful sushi served inside the red glow of what was once the cocktail bar of Republica Latina. The crab soup is perfect to wash down the sushi sets. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (22-49zł). BSUW Warsaw In Your Pocket

Sakana B-2, ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 022 826 59 58. Warsaw’s best sushi, so some say. The food floats by on small wooden boats while the small interior is brightened by bamboo bi ts and bobs, hand-crafted potter y and kimono suited staff. Frequently packed, so expect to eat shoulder to shoulder with other sushi afficionados. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (8-40zł). ABGTU

Jewish Pod Samsonem B-1, ul. Freta 3/5, tel. 022 831 17 88. Perpetually busy, but we’re at a loss to explain why. We’ve yet to have a good experience here, and we’ve yet to meet anyone who’d disagree. Prices are low, and so are standards with sloppy service and nothing-special plates of ‘Polish with a Jewish twist’ stodge. A complete tourist trap. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (12-35zł). ABJSX April - May 2007

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RESTAURANTS

RESTAURANTS Lebanese Le Cedre H-1, al. Solidarności 61, tel. 022 670 11 66, www.lecedre.pl. With Praga still regarded as The Final Frontier by many foreigners it’s our duty to tell readers to make the short trip here, and fast. A first rate choice for a taste of the exotic Le Cedre offer an authentic menu that includes a vast choice of mezze dishes, including a fabulous tabolleuh salad. For something more substantial go for the shish taouk; chicken grilled on a skewer. Hookah pipes dot the window sills, and a belly dancer enters the frame each Friday night. A shop selling Lebanese produce, as well as kebabs, has been added next door. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (28-59zł). TAUXSW

Samira F-4, al. Niepodległości 213, tel. 022 825 09 61, www.samira.pl. Half grocery store, half Lebanese restaurant. The interiors here are shocking, what with the stone cladding and garish green schemes, but the results on your plate fire all the correct shots. Accessed down a ropey looking alleyway Samira presents superb Lebanese dishes at extremely moderate prices, making it a real discovery for bargain hunters. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (15-60zł). AUGS

Light bites Antrakt B-2, pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 022 827 64 11, www.antraktcafe.waw.pl. A real labour of love, real effort has gone into creating this space, and the overall effect isn’t unlike entering a time machine. A gorgeous art deco interior comes furnished with antique typewriters and leopard print armchairs, and it’s a perfect atmosphere to smoke slim cigarettes while floating away to Edith Piaf. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (15-34zł). ASU

Café 6/12 C-4, ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 022 622 53 33. Get here early to take your place inside this cavernous legend that served as a pioneer on what is now known as one of the trendiest drinking zones in Warsaw. The breakfasts are highly rated and include some of the only bagels you’ll find in the capital, while the chilled out ambiance is matched with soothing minimalist décor and velvety ambient sounds from the speakers. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (25-52zł). ABSW

Café Balgera G-4, ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 022 629 01 89, www.balgera.pl. A good-looking, split-level endeavour selling Italian ingredients, pastries and desserts. Quality tiramisu and other goodies available for take away. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (3-25zł). ABSUX

Daily Café B-3, ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 022 829 91 57, www.dailycafe.pl. A Mercers copycat, complete with the white colours, exceptional smoothies, board games and spread of daily papers. Sepia prints and polished woods lend a slick high end ambiance while an urbane crowd sip large mugs of coffee while swapping DJ numbers in their phones. Q Open 07:30 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. BXSW

Deco Kredens C-3, ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. 022 826 06 60, www.kredens.com.pl. Furnished in whimsical art deco fashion it’s easy to lose track of time in this magnificent addition to the Kredens chain of cafés/restaurants. Crowded with stained glass, crimson pillars and eccentric figurines you could quite easily be in the thick of Paris’ theatre quarter. Apparently undiscovered by the foreign community, it’s a magnet for intellectuals smoking Dunhill and wealthy middle-aged locals reading Wprost. Excellent menu of upmarket Polish and European food. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (30-72zł). ABXS

Warsaw In Your Pocket

Marak B-3, ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 022 829 92 72, www.marak.pl. A bare-bones soup kitchen with a stark atmosphere. Limited menu, but the Thai soup and Boston Crab soup are great and comes with bread rolls. Now open in the train station, as well. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (10-16zł). BGSU

Subway B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 31, tel. 022 745 53 33, www.subway.waw.pl. Proper sandwiches served in all shapes and sizes with a variety of toppings - including meatball baguettes. Don’t accept any imitations, ie the sandwich shops you’ll find occupying the nearby subways. Open into the late hours, and ideal for post-pub hunger. Also in Galeria Mokotów. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (6-15zł). BGS

Tricaffe G-5, ul. Puławska 17, tel. 022 852 80 68, www. tricaffe.com. This breezy, easy-on-the-eye café serves up great espressos, desserts and light lunches in the same buidling that houses offices and the Silver Screen cinema - so no guesses who comes here. Large windows, chrome finishes and black-clad staff add that urbane touch. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (15-25zł). ABSWX

Mediterranean Boathouse H-3, ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 022 616 32 23, www.boathouse.pl. One of the first names out of the hat when deciding where to go, Boathouse continues to remain a fixed part of expat life. Winner of countless accolades, the seasonal menu features everything from your standard pepper steaks and duck to New Zealand lamb and chicken skewers. The sprawling floor plan is ideal for company dinners and big occasions. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (48-130zł). ABISTW

La Cantina C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 022 331 67 98, www.lacantina.com.pl. A Nowy Świat location tempts the diners in, and sooner rather than later they realize they’ve made a mistake entering. After a bright beginning La Cantina have dropped down the ratings and made a name for serving barely average attempts at Mediterranean cooking. A great shame, this is an attractive split-level space dominated by brickwork and an open grill, and could be a great venue for informal dates. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (22-74zł). TAUEBXS

www.inyourpocket.com

Middle Eastern Sheesha B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 3, tel. 022 828 25 25, www.sheesha.pl. Already established as one of Warsaw’s most exotic nightspots Sheesha are beginning to lure the pre-drinks crowd on account of a strong menu bursting with eastern promise. Kick your meal off falafel or tabolleuh, before hitting main courses like chicken biriyani or the spicy duck. As night marches on find Warsaw’s movers and shakers dancing between the ottomans and hookah pipes. QOpen 16:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 05:00. (27-42zł). AEBS Sphinx C-4, al. Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 022 826 07 50, www.sphinx.pl. Considered by many Poles as the height of sophistication, Sphinx’s nationwide chain of identikit restaurants offer cheap plates of poorly cooked kebabs and steaks with heaps of cabbage delivered to your table by amiable men dressed as penguins. There’s something very strange going on here, because as queasy as the food often makes you, you do find yourself going back for more. Somebody should definitely look into this. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (14-35zł). TABXS

Mongolian Tshingis Chan B-2, ul. Senatorska 27 (basement of Cesarski Pałac), tel. 022 827 97 07, www.cesarski-palac. com.pl. A pleasant cellar in which customers are expected to line up with a bowl, throw together a pile of raw ingredients and then wait around while the chefs cook up your concoctions. The results vary. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 22:00. (34-57zł). ASTUX

Nuevo Latino Conquistador C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 022 826 52 80, www.conquistador.pl. An unassuming entrance fools the passer-by into thinking this place is smaller than it is. Think again. Enter and find a smart three level restaurant with white shirted staff and an unmistakable air of exclusivity; perfect for the cocktail crowd. The menu delights with exotic choices like grilled ostrich and lamb baked in banana leaf and plum sauce. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35-79zł). TAEBXSW

Republica Latina C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 1, tel. 022 331 13 11, www.republicalatina.pl. A huge chandelier dangles above a stairwell which leads to an area decorated with Persian rugs and gilt framed mirrors, generating a warm atmosphere perfect for attempts at seduction. Start with roasted goats cheese and salsa, before moving on to main courses like veal stuffed with peppers or beef tenderloin served in oyster sauce. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (29-46zł). BSUW

April - May 2007

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RESTAURANTS Polish Ale Gloria C-4, pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 022 584 70 80, www.alegloria.pl. The work of celebrity restaurateur Magda Gessler, Ale Gloria features a surreal strawberry theme and a series of basement rooms that are little less than hallucinogenic; check out the white geese. The menu is modern Polish with dishes like pink duck breast with spicy strawberry salad or wild boar in Bombay gin and honey sauce. A darling of the local press columns. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (54-150zł). ATU

Belvedere G-5, New Orangery in Łazienki Park (enter from ul. Parkowa), tel. 022 841 22 50, www.belvedere. com.pl. Dine amidst a profusion of plants inside a converted orangery in the heart of Łazienki Park. A little formal, though now attracting a younger crowd than previous inside an overthe-top, decadent interior. The new menu is suitably faultless with complicated sounding Polish and European food, with prices at the premium end of the market. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (47-99zł). AT

Delicja Polska F-4, ul. Koszykowa 54, tel. 022 630 88 50, www.delicjapolska.pl. Delicja Polska combines beautifully presented food in a swish setting decorated with chintz, flowers and candles. Enjoy braised rabbit, or duck served with apples and cranberry sauce, while aproned staff cater to your whim and fancy. In summer sit out in the front where a small terrace has been stuffed with flower pots and shrubbery. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (34-98zł). TAUEBXS Dom Polski H-3, ul. Francuska 11, tel. 022 616 24 32. Long feted as one of the great restaurants in Poland, though first timers may wonder what the fuss is all about. Dom Polski are no longer the culinary force they once were and the main courses are only notable on account of their prices. Nonetheless, the atmosphere alone is worth any trouble with the bank manager. Impeccable service scuttles around country manor decorations, and the garden is one of the best you’ll find. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-78zł). TAEBXS Flik G-5, ul. Puławska 43, tel. 022 849 44 34, www. flik.com.pl. A golden oldie. Flik have been around for years and never fail to impress with their reliable Polish menu. While the surrounds are not the most adventurous the menu does not fail, hence you’ll find it frequently filled with expats who have made Mokotów their enclave. QOpen 12:30 - 23:00. (20-79zł). TABXS

Folk Gospoda E-2, ul. Waliców 13, tel. 022 890 16 05. Boys and girls wearing peasant aprons present a menu which runs through the basics of Polish cooking. The interior of heavy timber and flower pots is a great background for an informal intro to Polish feasting, and frequently resounds to the blaze of traditional live music. Pair the pigs knuckle with their cognac-pepper sauce and you’re onto a winner. Now open for breakfast. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 24:00. (16-34zł). TAUEBXS

Honoratka B-2, ul. Miodowa 14, tel. 022 635 03 97, www.honoratka.com.pl. Operating as Honoratka since 1826 this is very much a place where you breathe in the history of centuries past - Chopin used to dine here. Split into five vaulted cellars the menu that arrives to your table reads like a 15th century banquet. Mugs of mead go alongside dishes like roast boar in juniper sauce, while the meal for two is an assembly of every meat to have ever been hunted. The garden, set in the grounds of a former castle, is the perfect after-thought following a day exploring the nearby old town. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (18-39zł). TAEBXS

Warsaw In Your Pocket

Chłopskie Jadło F-4, pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 022 339 17 15, www.chlopskiejadlo.pl. If you’ve visited Kraków the chances are you’re come across Chłopskie Jadło before. This is an exact replica of one of their many Kraków enterprises, effortlessly transplanted into the heart of Warsaw. Jars of pickles and strings of sausages decorate an interior stuffed with wooden chests and rusty saws. The menu is traditional meat and potatoes fare and can be hit and miss, and be warned, they will fleece you for extras like potatoes and sauces. The homemade lard and bread is excellent, though becomes distinctly less appealing with the icy service. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (15-55zł). ABSTX Oberża Pod Czerwonym Wieprzem E-2, ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 022 850 31 44, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. It’s high time Warsaw had a commie themed restaurant and you can’t get much better than the Red Pig. The menus, printed on newspaper, reveal filling Polish dishes with names attached that honour the baddies of the past: Mao Chicken and Brezhnev koludny to name a couple. Castro, Brezhnev and Lenin all dined here in the past, and this resurrected brick and timber walled restaurant fizzes with atmosphere. Pics of Soviet icons, marching anthems, carnations and red sashes add to the time trip, but this is more than just a novelty restaurant aimed at one-off visitors. The food is generally excellent with some portions verging on obscene. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (13-65zł). TAUBXSW

Polskie Smaki C-3, ul. Gałczyńskiego 3, tel. 022 826 59 67, www.polskiesmaki.pl. Upmarket Polish food served the way it’s meant to be, at a fraction of the cost. The surroundings are restrained, by any standards; with most Polish restaurants going for either an OTT farmyard look, or plumping for the ‘at home with the aristocrats’ feel, Polskie Smaki falls in between. Well done for that alone. Come here for the wild boar, definitely a stand out choice. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (27-35zł). ABT

Różana Restauracja Polska G-5, ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 022 848 12 25, www.restauracjatradycja.pl. A two-floor pre-war villa full of chichi touches, flowers and crockery. Very nice, but it attracts return custom on account of the cooking, not the interior. Upmarket Polish food in a setting that is perfect for that important dinner-for-two. Starters include iced black caviar with ‘a drop of frosty vodka’, great if you’ve got the credit card. For main try out the veal liver with onions and cherry sauce. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (29-76zł). ABEITX

Radio Café B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. 022 625 27 84, www.radiocafe.pl. A part of Warsaw folklore. A fiercely loyal fanbase squeeze into Radio Cafe’s photo lined walls to smoke heavily and enjoy a standard mix of Polish and European dishes. It’s not progressive, but then that’s part of the appeal. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (18-35zł). ABSX Restauracja Polska Przy Trakcie F-2, ul. Królewska 2, tel. 022 827 01 98, www.restauracjapolska.pl. Another feather in the cap of the revitalized theatre quarter. The interior is an attractive blend of lampshades, flowers and framed pictures, and the cooking is up-to-scratch, featuring high end offerings like goose, rabbit and cheesecake apparently made to the recipe of a mystery grandmother. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (38-65zł). ABSTUX Restauracja Zgoda B-3, ul. Zgoda 4, tel. 022 827 99 34. An old timer that’s had a refit and a new burst of life. Dishes like żurek soup, shashlyk and pancakes are chalked up on the blackboard and served from behind a glass counter. Low prices, competent cooking and a casual trattoria ambience (whitewashed walls, timber furnishings) are rewarded by a constant stream of customers. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (19-35zł). TAXS

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RESTAURANTS Fast food & Delivery Your body might be a temple, but there comes a time when even the leanest of machines needs to be filled with burgers, chips and calories. Fast food culture has not escaped Poland and you’ll find several chains of McDonald’s dotted around. The flagship megadonald’s can be found on ul. Marszałkowska 126/134 (B-3) and is open 24hrs, as are ones on ul. Ostrobramska 73 and ul. Radzymińska 249. In the centre (C-4) the one on Krucza 50 opens from 07:00 - 01:00 while the McD’s in the train station (B-4) opens from 05:30 - 02:00. Breakfast is only served at the train station branch. KFC have no 24hr enterprises though several branches throughout town, including al. Solidarności 82 (B-2, open 09:00 - 23:00), ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 4/6 (C-3, open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00), ul. Piękna 28/34, (F-4, open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00). KFC also offer a home delivery service in Warsaw though you’ll be lucky to find an English-speaker on the other end. Try your luck by ringing 022 536 36 36. Behind the counters you should find the staff in both KFC and McDonald’s will usually understand a smattering of English, and if you’re desperate for their other locations then hit their respective websites at www.mcdonalds.pl and www.kfc.pl. Polish style baguettes and kebabs can be found in chains of A Petit and Oskar - you’ll see them everywhere around the train station, and central area, though you’ll probably give them a miss after one tryout. For the best kebabs check our section dedicated to Booze Food. With regards to pizza be warned about the Polish tradition of lumping tomato ketchup onto the sacred pie. The local favourite here is Telepizza and you should check www.telepizza.pl to find the nearest location. If you want something more upmarket then drop into Rusticoni (F-3, ul. Wilcza 35/41) to pick up a pizza the way it was intended to be made. You’ll find most restuarants will deliver food to your door, all you have to do is pay for the taxi. One outstanding service perfect for winter nights sat in front of your TV dressed in your underwear is Room Service. Cooperating with a range of restaurants, from Mexican to Indian to Thai they’ll deliver to all corners of Warsaw, and usually within an hour of ordering. Order online at www.roomservice.pl or give them a bell on 022 651 90 03. All the Indian restaurants we list offer a home delivery service. Tandoor Palace (022 825 23 75) offer a loyalty card for their regulars, while Namaste (022 357 09 39) have become a lunchtime hero for office workers around town. A final word of warning: give the Vietnamese snack cabins you see dotted around a wide berth. Only a few years back a warehouse filled with dead cats and dogs was raided by the police. Their destination? Your plate.

Warsaw In Your Pocket

RESTAURANTS Smaki Warszawy B-4, ul. Żurawia 47/49, tel. 022 621 82 68, www.smakiwarszawy.pl. This location has seen numerous bars and restaurants come and go, though Smaki Warszawy looks like a winner right from the traps. Long live success. You’ve got two choices: sit in the confectionary part where the choice will overwhelm. A couple to watch for – apple pie served with vanilla ice cream, or the meringue cake with raspberries. Both outstanding. The restaurant area takes on an upmarket pre-war ambiance, with handsome male waiters serving supreme dishes like sturgeon with marinated aubergine or saddle of roe deer. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (29-75zł). ABESTWX

Tawerna Galeon G-6, ul. Huculska 1, tel. 022 558 01 80, www.galeon.waw.pl. Another seafaring venture, this one decked out like a Spanish galleon, complete with fishing nets hanging off the ceiling and a model ship bursting from behind the bar. The service is hit, not miss, while the fried salmon in lemon sauce earns an ovation. But there’s more to this place than seafood, and the newly-added Polish menu deserves attention of its own. Try out signature Polski dishes like bigos and pork knuckle. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (22-58zł). ABESTWX

Villa Nuova ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 23, tel. 022 885

Osteria F-3, ul. Krucza 6/14, tel. 022 621 16 46, www.

15 02, www.villanuova.pl. Furnished with mahogany and chandeliers, Villa Nuova represents no less than culinary excellence. Private rooms, an impressive cellar and staff who make you feel like a celebrity from the moment you enter make this a perfect evening. High prices, though most seem happy to pay them after sampling the top notch game dishes. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (38-98zł). AISTWX

osteria.pl. Formerly the top seafood choice in Warsaw, though nowadays you may find the end results do not justify the price tags. Nonetheless, the menu does feature fresh oysters, Spanish mussels, and some very good octopus, and the background is as good as any to dine in; watch the African fish look on in alarm from the safety of aquariums as their colleagues meet their end in the open kitchen. The modern interior of bubbling portholes and illuminated shells is popular with a well turned-out crowd. QOpen 12:00 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (49-195zł). ABSTUW

Tradycja Restauracja Polska G-5, ul. Belwederska

Zapiecek C-4, al. Jerozolimskie 28, tel. 022 826 74 84,

18a, tel. 022 840 09 01, www.restauracjatradycja.pl. Superb Polish food prepared with flair and served by first class staff. A discreet and engaging atmosphere inside a fully restored villa. The fillet of pike perch comes accompanied by a delicious leek sauce. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (32-64zł). AEISTX

www.zapiecek.eu. Warsaw’s pierogophiles finally have a new home. Packed through all hours this pierogi kitchen assumes the ‘Grandmothers country cottage’ look, with pots and pans hanging from every shelf, and lots of hard timber touches. Much talked about, their deliciously light dough pockets come with all the fillings you can imagine: from cherry to mushrooms, and there’s a street-level take away window for lunch-on-the-run. If you haven’t eaten for a day try their pierogi challenge: eat 59 in under 25 minutes and your meal is free. Fail and you owe them 59zł. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (15-20zł). AGST

U Fiszera A-2, pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 022 620 46 11. A real relic from 90s Warsaw. The menu is comprised of grilled meats and large plates of warming winter nosh, though they’ll try and fleece you for every coin in the pocket: expect to pay extra for chips, sauces etc. The mildly rustic interior is a sad collection of chequered tablecloths and brass instruments, which is a joy to behold if you’ve had your fill of New Warsaw. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 02:00. (20-46zł). ABESTX U Fukiera B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, tel. 022 831 10 13, www.ufukiera.pl. The most famous restaurant in town, and after slipping down the culinary rankings the last year has seen Fukier return to their best. Let the guestbook speak for itself; Naomi Campbell, Henry Kissinger and Sarah Ferguson have all taken up knives and forks inside this place. The interior is a work of art, crowded with paintings and antiques, and it’s not hard to feel part of history when dining here. We started with a thick goualsh soup, before moving onto Lithuanian dumplings and finishing with tiramisu and eclairs. Indulge yourself. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (40-120zł). JABXS

U Kucharzy B-2, ul. Ossolińskich 7, tel. 022 826 79 36, www.gessler.pl. Akin to dining in the kitchen of The Savoy, the chefs work in front of the diners inside what once played the role as the kitchen of the Europejski Hotel. It’s a great experience with the owner flitting from table to table while a pianist works his magic fingers in the background. The menu is typical of high class Polish restaurants, with lots of game and other posh meats. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (30-80zł). AETX

www.inyourpocket.com

Portuguese Portucale G-6, ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 022 898 09 25, www.portucale.pl. This gets the thumbs up from our resident Portuguese epicurean, and you can’t say fairer than that. Situated out in the no-mans land of distant Mokotów your journey is made worthwhile on account of a superb wine list – check their wine store, stocking some 200 brands – and a menu that is split between delicious seafood choices and hunks of meat. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (20-75zł). ABSTWX

Seafood Beluga C-4, Plac Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 022 584 71 01, www.strefagourmet.pl. The interior, filled with mirrors, glass and black finishes, will take the breath away, and must surely stand out as one of the most extravagant décors to be found in Poland. Pop the big question here and we guarantee the answer will be yes. On the menu premium Japanese and Russian dishes, including oysters and hand-massaged Kobe beef. Take advantage of the luxurious sofas in the glass-topped foyer for an after-meal whisky. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (43178zł). ASTUX

Molo C-4, ul. Krucza 17, tel. 022 425 76 79, www. molo.waw.pl. Pre-empt your summer coastline holiday in this tacky fish emporium. Modelled on a Sopot seaside snack cabin The Pier comes with a suitably crass interior of flimsy furniture and nautical extras. Light, bright and tiny, the dishes are pretty good with prices kept to a minimum and a lunch on the run atmosphere prevailing. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (10--25zł). RBXS

Restauracja Rybna C-3, ul. Foksal 10, tel. 022 332 48 33, www.restauracjarybna.pl. In a city where sushi has become the food of choice it comes as a surprise that finding a fine seafood restaurant is a trial. Rybna is one answer, offering a wide selection of maritime suspects inside a warm timber interior replete with a scale-model of a galleon and fishing nets. Try the mussels served in white wine sauce. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (25-65zł). ABSTUX

Breakfast The choice of the corporate high-flyer is naturally 99 (E-2, al. Jana Pawła II 23), open from 08:00 to serve the likes of pancakes, croissants and eggs. Next door the newly opened Atrio (E-2, al. Jana Pawła II 23) serve American, British, Polish and continental breakfasts, as well as freshly squeezed juices to greet the day. From the same time Jazz Bistro Espresso (F-4, ul. Piękna 20) offer a decent choice of buns, baguettes and ciabattas. Our favourite breakfast prize goes to Café 6/12 (C-4, ul. Żurawia 6/12) for their selection of light bites (which include bagels), though we’ve also been hearing good words about the brekkies served in You & Me found in the same block. Straight down the street on pl. Trzech Krżyzy 18 (C-3) you’ll find Szpilka open from 07:00 during the week. A couple of doors down Szparka is infinitely more fashionable, though shares two similar traits to Szpilka; same opening hours, and the same disappointing breakfasts. Subway Sandwiches (B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 31) sell you know what from 08:00. Two coffee chains worth a mention on account of quality fresh snacks and drinks are Wayne’s (A-4, al. Jerozolimskie 56c, open from 07:30 during the week) and Coffeeheaven in the train station (open from 07:30 during the week). McDonald’s open from early selling their usual goods (see Fast Food for locations), with their train station branch serving breakfast. If all else fails hit one of the dozens of bakeries (piekarnia) dotted around the centre to pick up freshly baked produce. If you can hang on until 10:00 and 12:00 respectively then both Bradley’s (ul. Sienna 39) and Bar Below (ul. Marszałkowska 64) serve all-day Irish breakfasts that will leave you fed for the rest of the day.

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RESTAURANTS Spanish Casa To Tu C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 54/56, tel. 022 828 00 66, www.casatotu.pl. Once home to the glittery Tiger Sports Bar this space is now occupied by something altogether more alluring. A warren of basement rooms come cluttered with muskets, hams and kitchen tables, forcing an atmosphere redolent of a Spanish coastline cottage. The menu pleases with its selection of tapas and paellas, as well as a selection of soups that range from gazpacho to spicy garlic. Order a jug of sangria to go with your meal. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (14-46zł). ABSTX

Mar y Sol G-3, ul. Rozbrat 8/1, tel. 022 622 50 00, www.mar-y-sol.com.pl. Another place that finds itself wilting after such a positive start. By night the whitewashed interior would be ideal for budding romantics were it not for the average, bland attempts at Spanish cuisine. At least the price tags are kept down to reflect this. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (17-82zł). ABRST

Valencia E-1, ul. Stawki 2 (Intraco building, 38th floor), tel. 022 860 62 17. Once considered one of the top dining experiences in town, Warsaw has moved on, leaving the staff at Valencia wondering where all the customers went. The 38th floor of Warsaw’s most humdrum skyscraper is the setting for a tacky interior and an ambitiously priced menu. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (25-230zł). ASX

Tex-Mex Blue Cactus G-5, ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 022 851

The Mexican C-3, ul. Foksal 10a, tel. 022 826 90 21, www.mexican.pl. Complete with adobe coloured walls, chirpy tequila girls plus sombreros and cactuses, The Mexican has intimacy aplenty. The food? Could be a lot better. Staff celebrate tips by firing pistols into the air - embarassing for all involved. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (18-39zł). ABEITX

Warsaw Tortilla Factory F-3, ul. Wilcza 46 (corner of Wilcza and Poznańska), tel. 022 621 86 22, www. tortillafactory.pl. Here’s the one we’ve been waiting for, the re-opening of Warsaw’s best Tex Mex restaurant. Due to open their doors in mid-April we’ve been told to expect all the old favourites, plus the addition of steaks, ribs and the introduction of Warsaw’s hottest salsa. As night falls this L-shaped space historically attracts as many drinkers as it does diners, and there’s plenty of live music in the pipeline, brain damage cocktails guaranteed and even a selection of tables complete with their own beer taps. This was the best Tex Mex food in the city, and we expect that tradition to continue. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (23-35zł). AEXS NEW

Warsaw Tortilla Factory A/B-4, ul. Złota 59. Warsaw’s best burrito arrives in the city centre courtesy of the WTF team. Occupying a spot in the Złoty Tarasy food court this is a condensed fast food version of the Tortilla Factory complete with blistering hot mango habanero sauce, soft and crispy tacos and cinnamon crisps. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.

Thai

23 23, www.bluecactus.pl. One of Warsaw’s most popular restaurants, so much so you may have to resort to scheming and deceit in the quest for a table. The food is generally good while the burritos are large enough to feed a group of orphans. Cheerful but definitely not cheap the Blue Cactus has been an expat magnet for several years, with a superb summer terrace to start the evening on. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (30-70zł). TABXSW

Dziki Ryż G-5, ul. Puławska 24b, tel. 022 848 00 60.

El Popo B-2, ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 022 827 23 40. One

Maharaja Thai B-2, ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. 022 635 25 01, www.maharaja.com.pl. The interior may be disappointingly drab considering the location – inside a medieval towerhouse – but the food most certainly isn’t, with a collection of fiery typically Thai dishes. We had the red curry and our taste buds knew about it immediately. Not gourmet dining, but a decent stop in an area of town not known for culinary variety. QOpen 12:30 - 23:00. (25-50zł). ABJSTX

of Warsaw’s oldest restaurant, and time has done nothing to dent El Popo’s popularity. The atmosphere is superb, complete with serenading Mexicans, parakeets and plenty of cacti dotted around. The food though, it must be said, is no longer what it once was. The fajitas come at premium prices, though lack the sizzle and the generous portions of meat needed to make them memorable. Warsaw now has better, far better, though El Popo’s future looks far from precarious. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (28-62zł). TAEBXSW

Formerly on Hoża the Dziki Ryż team have upped sticks and moved into a space vacated by Café Brama. Decorated with black shades, canvas lanterns, empty bird cages and flamboyant plant life the interiors are cheap but lively, while the menu is a decent enough canter through Thai and Asian recipes, though by no means worth trekking half of Warsaw for. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (22-32zł). TABXSW

tel. 022 328 88 88, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Some of Warsaw’s best restaurants are found inside hotels, and the Inter-Continental’s Frida falls into that category. A genuine Mexican menu – not your standard choice of burritos – cooked by Mexican natives inside an interior of warm fabrics and potted plants. If you’re here in early April then check out Frida’s ‘Fajita Festival’, where 89zł rewards you with as many fajitas as you can eat. Q Open 12:00 - 16:00, 17:30 - 23:00; Sat, Sun 17:30 - 23:00. (65-89zł). TAUGXW

Taqueria Mexicana B-3, ul. Zgoda 5, tel. 022 556 47

Suparom Thai Food G-4, ul. Marszałkowska 45, tel.

20. Warsaw offers three types of Mexican restaurant: good, bad and awful. That was the case, and Taqueria formerly slipped into the latter category, but this venue is improving fast with decent tacos and a colourful atmosphere found inside a small room. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (32-52zł). AEST

022 627 18 88, www.dong-nam.com.pl. Decent versions of Thai food served by staff who don’t mind slamming plates in front of you before disappearing off to swear at each other. Ever a reliable takeout option although, staff aside, eating inside the pagoda-style interior is a real sensory pleasure. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (25-55zł). ABXSW

Warsaw In Your Pocket

Warsaw Tortilla Factory, the best of tex - mex, new improved menu, new bands & new dj’s

Sunanta C-4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 022 434 22 16, www.sunanta.pl. Mixed reports about this place. We enjoyed the best Thai meal we’ve had in the city here, though others have been less fortunate with criticism fired at both the nervous staff and the competence of the chefs. Our red curry duck proved a pleasant surprise, spicy but not overpoweringly so, though the servings were so skimpy that McDonald’s found itself raking in the money not minutes after we had left. An intimate, muted interior includes dark woods and bamboo, as well as an open kitchen from which you can hear the sound of dropped plates. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00. (18-52zł). AGBS

Frida A-4, ul. Emili Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel),

“Opening mid April” - All new

Warsaw Tortilla Factory ul. Wilcza 46 tel. 022 621-8622 www.warsawtortillafactory.pl [email protected]

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RESTAURANTS Turkish Lokanta B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 47a, tel. 022 585 10 04, www.lokanta.home.pl. If you want a kebab but don’t want food poisoning then this Turkish restaurant fits the bill. A wood-fired oven for pizza, a charcoal grill for their kebabs and Turkish tea, coffee and wine to wash it all down with. Popular with the office crowd, Lokanta’s sofas, cushions and timber beams make it a choice space for an after-work wind down. Business lunch available. QOpen 08:30 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:30. (12-42zł). TAEBXS

Vegetarian Vega C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 52, tel. 022 828 64 28, www. vega-bar.com.pl. The former Mata Hari has changed name and changed menu. It’s still a veggie hangout, the difference being a move away from Indian influences. Choose from obscure dishes like soya pierogi or soya with yoghurt. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. (8-14zł). GSU

Cafés Łysy Pingwin H-1, ul. Ząbkowska 11, tel. 022 618 02 56, www.lysypingwin.pl. At the heart of Praga’s Boho renaissance stands the Bald Penguin, a tatty bar/café swarming with academics and unsigned musicians. Run by a Swedish Buddhist this spot is as wacky as you find with its collection of jumble sale lamps, artistic ‘happenings’ and courtyard dedicated to the Gallic art of boules. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 03:00. A

Belle Epoque B-1, ul. Freta 18, tel. 022 635 41 05. It’s all gone a little Alice in Wonderland. A barking mad collection of lampshades, dusty gramophones and important looking antiques cram every corner of this adorable Old Town stop. Music is in the form of crackly Frank Sinatra tunes and there’s some very good tea and cakes. Outstanding. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. EJSX

Blikle Café B-4, ul. Nowy Świat 33, tel. 022 826 66 19, www.blikle.pl. A part of Warsaw folklore. This is where Charles De Gaulle used to come for his donuts back in his Warsaw days, and Blikle still sell a chocolate and marzipan cake honouring their famous guest. A classy, august venue, with a menu that includes a range of breakfasts, bagels and a dessert selection that will have you in heaven. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. ABSTX

Café Brama C-4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 022 434 22 13, www.cafebrama.pl. What was once a chain with several ventures across the city has seen their empire crash into the sea, leaving them with just their original flagship café on Krucza. Prices have spiralled for no apparent reason, and though the food is bland café fare, Brama still appeals on account of their scatty service, bright, sunny atmosphere and a drinks list that includes Hoegaarden beer. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. ABSTX

Café Bristol C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Le Royal Méridien Bristol), tel. 022 551 18 28, www.hotel-bristol.pl. Like something from the pages of a Fitzgerald book, pretty waitresses ferry coffee and pastries from table to table in this chequered café. High-class. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. AERSTUWX Cava C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 30, tel. 022 826 64 27, www. cava.pl. Huge windows, jazz and an abundance of drinks and snacks to pick from. Decorated with clean lines, lacquered woods and big sacks of coffee beans this place could be great

Warsaw In Your Pocket

RESTAURANTS if it weren’t for the end product. The locals clearly don’t care and this place is packed from opening.QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. ABSTUWX

Coffeeheaven C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 46, tel. 022 828 20 57, www.coffeeheaven.eu.com. You’ll find Coffeeheaven across the city, and no train journey can truly begin without stocking up on goodies for the ride ahead. Nowy Świat is home to their flagship, and though the interiors could have been designed within three minutes the coffee more than makes up for it. We’ve yet to find a better way to beat the sticky Warsaw heat than their strawberry smoothies. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Fri 07:30 - 22:30, Sat 08:00 - 22:30, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. ABGSW

Coffee Karma F-4, pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. 022 875 87 09, www.coffeekarma.pl. Earnest looking intellectuals read Hesse while taking languid sips of hand-roasted coffee. Huge windows afford views of pl. Zbawiciela, and the staff are also adept at fixing exotic smoothies. Ten out of ten. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. ABESWX Czuły Barbarzyńca (The Gentle Barbarian) C-2, ul. Dobra 31, tel. 022 826 32 94, www.czulybarbarzynca.pl. Owlish academics fill this esoteric bookshop cum café. Springy sofas and chairs are scattered amongst shelves full of clever sounding titles. Ten out of ten for character alone. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. ASWX Embassy C-4, pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 022 584 71 01, www.strefagourmet.pl. A light and leafy atmosphere is the home to this gourmet delicatessen. Start each day with one of their freshly baked croissants or brioches, or go for sandwiches made using home produce. The choices are endless, ranging from couscous to bigos. If you don’t plan on spending a fortune keep the kids waiting outside; you’ll find the best cakes in Warsaw lining up here. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. ASTX

Green Coffee F-3, ul. Marszałkowska 84/92, tel. 022 629 83 73. Occupying a spot in the shadow of the Novotel, Green Coffee offers a selection of leaf teas and snacks amid comfortable sofas and black and white prints. In summer the windows hoist away creating a light, airy atmosphere. Bad news comes in the shape of below-par ciabattas and smoothies that use tinned mangoes. Some of the staff act like sulky prima donnas. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. AB ERSTUX Chłodna 25 E-2, ul. Chłodna 25, tel. 022 620 24 13, www.chlodna25.pl. The new home of Warsaw counter-culture, and something of an alternative community centre. An eclectic, no-frills design comes with mismatched furnishings, local artwork and wooden floorboards, and this is where a crowd of varied backgrounds descend to take to the piano, discuss the works of Nietzsche or sink into armchairs and look revolutionary. The staff here are superb, so do visit before these angels choose to migrate to England. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. ESTUW Kafka C-3, ul. Oboźna 3, tel. 022 826 08 22, www. kafka.com.pl. Join bookworm types, and people pretending to read clever books in an effort to impress, inside Warsaw’s latest literary café. Giant windows allow passers by to peer in at you struggling through your dog eared copy of Gogol, while a series of low slung sofas do their best to swallow you for the afternoons duration. A great place for daydreamers, with decorations coming in the form of a towering bookshelf taking up one whole side and black and white checkered flooring. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. BGSUW

Krokiecik B-3, ul. Zgoda 1, tel. 022 827 30 37, www. krokiecik.com. A basic café that hums with custom thanks to its position in the heart of the city. Polish café standards served in a room decorated with tiles and wood, while coffee machines hiss and splutter in the background. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - -19:00. TAXSW

La Patisserie B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 022 630 52 32, www.marriott.com/wawpl. The Marriott folk have added a pastry shop to the hotel, replete with home made cakes, pastries and sandwiches. Gourmet teas and coffees are on hand to add to the flavours. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 17:00. AUXSW

Mercers C-3, ul. Chmielna 21, tel. 022 826 35 80. Aimed at the Sex in the City generation, Mercers has good coffee and even better smoothies inside a clinical interior of white sofas, dark woods and prints of NYC. This is one of the best cafés in Warsaw, but not without its caveats: the ordering process, pay at one counter, collect your winnings at the other, frequently descends into confusion. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. ASW Same Fusy ul. Nowomiejska 10, tel. 022 635 90 14, www.samefusy.pl. An arcane looking candlelit cellar that induces a zen-like calm on all who visit. The design is great, with tree trunks used as tables, and a scattering of artistic oddities (feathered warrior masks) attached to the walls. Perch yourself on one of the stools before taking your pick from over a hundred teas garnered from afar afield as Tibet and Africa.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. TJAX

Szpilka C-3, pl. Trzech Krzyży 18, tel. 022 628 91 32. Szpilka once stood on the cutting edge of Warsaw’s night scene, offering a modern European menu, round-the-clock hours and sharp design. Today this white-on-white café, bar, meeting place, buzzes long after the rest of Warsaw sleeps, but that’s no reflection of quality. The food verges on abysmal, though it’s still a good bet if you’re looking to greet dawn with a strong drink. QOpen 07:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 07:00. ABS

Tok B-4, ul. Żurawia 32/34, tel. 022 621 77 99, www. tokcafe.pl. A great find that’s rising up the rankings to emerge as one of Warsaw’s best loved meeting points. You’ve seen the interior dozens of times before, all blond woods and abstract artwork, but the light bites and choice of smoothies are in a league of their own. The laid back atmosphere is infectious, making it alarmingly easy to lose half an afternoon here. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. ABSUW

Vienna Café and Restaurant B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 022 630 51 41, www.marriott.com/wawpl. A welcome splurge. Popular for hushed one-on-one meetings, Vienna is all upholstered chairs and trays of cakes sitting on important-looking cutlery. Surrender to desire and take on their all-you-can-eat dessert buffet. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. (20-100zł). ASTUWX

Booze Food Warsaw has a kebab stand on every corner, and most of them will do their level best to poison you. Don’t expect the Brit style kebab experience; many places will insist on stuffing your pitta with gherkins, cabbage, beetroot, carrots and any other nasty vegetable that may be at hand. If you want something nuclear ask for your kebab to be served bardzo ostry (very spicy). As a general rule avoid the train station, in particular Bosfor: quite possibly the most wicked excuse for a kebab in Europe, and only to be visited in instances of extreme emergency. Talk to any Pole and they’ll tell you the best kebab in the world is Bar Ali Baba on the corner of Świętokrzyska and Marszałkowska. You’ll be able to identify it by the crowd gathered outside. You’ve got two windows to choose from, with one serving Turkish-style kebabs, the other Greek. Elsewhere Bar Egipt behind the Novotel is open 24hrs and makes a very decent attempt at a kebab, while Bar Turecki Zgoda (ul. Zgoda 3) serve decent snack sized kebabs to post-club casualties. If, like many expats, you find yourself boozing into the early hours in Bar Below then sustenance lies around the corner on Hoża’s Egyptian run Cleopatra kebab - open 24hrs and not half bad, with a decent lasagne as well. The underpass on Marszałkowska and Jerozolimskie is home to several Polish fast food chains like Oskar and A Petit. Expect ciabattas and hybrid kebab things served by young girls who clearly dream of working elsewhere. The last time we were there one such character enquired if we wanted our panini served with salmonella. Charming. If you want to fit in with the locals do keep an eye out for zapakianka: a Polish specialty which amounts to half a toasted baguette topped with melted cheese, mushrooms and sauce from a squeezy bottle. If you wish to protect your health then Subway Sandwiches have just opened on al. Jerozolimskie 31, and stay open until 02:00 (midnight on Sunday). For something completely different take a trip to The Food Bus. Parked opposite the InterContinental, climb abroad the battered old bus and order sausages and other miscellaneous soakage scrawled on the board. Absolute madness reigns inside, so don’t be surprised to find old women singing off key, saucer-eyed clubbers and vomiting foreigners. Open hours are unpredictable, and remain at the owners whim, though it’s usually open from midnight till dawn. If you want to feel ripped off then by all means feel free to sample the joy that is the menu at Szparka (pl. Trzech Krżyzy 18). Stick to the sandwiches; order anything more complicated and you’ll find yourself handing it back to the waiter, maybe with a few expletives thrown in.

Wayne’s Coffee A-4, al. Jerozolimskie 56c, tel. 022 630 21 42, www.waynescoffee.pl. The most popular coffee chain in Scandinavia have landed in Warsaw, with another franchise due to open with the imminent unveiling of the Złote Tarasy development next to the train station. Interiors are clean-cut generic, with the selling point here being the end product. A vast range of coffees – from cinnamon latte to caramel steamers – go alongside freshly baked bagels, wraps and foccacio toast. Don’t settle for any imitations. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. ASUWX

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WE ARE OPEN! business lunch great coctail bar family brunch on Saturday and Sunday with animation for kids live music every Tuesday summer garden

BETWEEN CENTRAL RAILWAY STATION - PALACE OF CULTURE AND SCIENCE - ZLOTE TARASY HARD ROCK CAFE WARSAW UL. ZLOTA 59 00-120 WARSAW GROUP SALES call (22) 222 0 702 or e-mail on [email protected]

ENTRANCE FROM EMILI PLATER OR ZLOTE TARASY-SUNKEN PLAZA

www.hardrockcafe.pl

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WARSAW STAGS There’s nothing quite so quintessentially British than grown men setting off for foreign climes dressed as women or Flintstones before subjecting the local population to a barrage of colourful songs, vomit and innuendo. Better known as the Stag Night, Poland, has become big news for groups of lads looking to give an unwitting groom his ‘last night of freedom’. Kraków remains first choice in Poland, but Warsaw is gaining fast, if not so noticeably. While the 90s saw Dublin and Amsterdam – then later Prague – as the destination of choice, the boom of the budget flight has brought the rest of Europe within reach of the rampant stags. With the rise and rise of the budget airlines continuing unabated, Warsaw has never been so easily accessible – just ask any Brit resident out here how much they once paid for a flight and you’ll laugh. Without doubt, and much to the delight of local cash tills, the city meets all the criteria for pre-marital horseplay; cheap beer – check, English-speaking locals – check, lots of connections to English airports – check, and last but definitely not least, centrefold women – just take a look around. None of these factors look set to change, which means it’s time for the locals to buy a tin hat and expect an onslaught.

Need to know For the stags who find themselves wandering Warsaw it’d be useful to reiterate a few points raised elsewhere in the guide. Polish booze is dynamite. While excessive drinking might be a national sport, the local robocops do not take kindly to displays of overt public drunkenness – least of all if it emanates from some bright spark dressed as Chewbacca. A trip to the drunk tank will set you back 250zł, and more importantly will see a good chunk of your weekend spent locked in a cell with members of the great unwashed. Warsaw is not a dangerous city, but it is a big city, and as such the laws of nature dictate that lunatics will make up a proportion of the local population. Some may not take kindly to groups of blokes acting like big time charlies. Use common sense and you’re guaranteed a trouble free trip. Finally, do check beforehand if your travel plans match those of the Pope; the pontiffs visit in May was celebrated with a blanket alcohol prohibition throughout Warsaw, leaving several bemused stags casting sinister glances at the best man.

NIGHTLIFE What to do Beer and women will usually top most stag agendas, and you’ll find plenty of both within Warsaw’s city limits. One thing you will struggle to find is a concentrated nightlife district – there is none in Warsaw. The spread out nature of the town means you can expect to be chasing round town in a taxi. The closest you will find to a good cluster of bars will be around the area of Nowy Świat, Foksal, Chmielna and pl. Trzech Krzyży. For smaller groups, start the night in Sense (C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 19) which serves dynamite cocktails inside a trendy environment that bursts with good lookers. The bare area isn’t huge, so the earlier you get here, the more likely it is you’ll get a perch. Two places of note are BrowArmia (F-2, ul. Królewska 1) and Bierhalle (C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 64); both microbreweries, and both venues where group drunkenness is expected, and sometimes even encouraged. Expat pubs are always a magnet, and our pick is the Irish-run Bar Below (B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 64). A modern space with clubbish tunes and plenty of sofas generate an urbane atmosphere, while countless TVs and satellite dishes mean you’re guaranteed to see the game of your choice. On the menu: better fry-ups than served at home. Bradley’s (E-3, ul. Sienna 39) is your signature Irish pub abroad, and always a good bet for a lively weekend. Do watch out for the occasional booby trap. Patrick’s (B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 21) and John Bull Pub (B-2, ul. Jezuicka 4) may sound like welcoming venues, but for differing reasons prove anything but. If you’re looking to combine drinking with food then our choice is the Warsaw Tortilla Factory (F-3, ul. Wilcza 46), where high-powered salsa sauces and venomous cocktails will have you thinking you’ve gone blind. On the whole you’re going to have to be dressed up to make it into most of the clubs in Warsaw, and we don’t mean in comedy outfits; and do enter covertly in several groups, as opposed to descending en masse; if you don’t most door police will refuse entry straight off the bat. Disregarding a miracle, the likelihood of Poland’s females being impressed by your drunken antics are highly minimal, in which case there’s a chance you’ll be ending up in one of the few strip clubs in the city. Sofia (A/B-4, pl. Powstanców Warszaway 1) is the stag choice, and offers highly physical private dances that start at 50zł. Expect two rooms that pack out to the rafters, and a large team of flighty girls doing the entertaining. Entrance is 30zł. Watch out for the beautiful creatures who offer to pay a visit to your hotel room after hours; they’ll insist on payment upfront before vanishing into thin air. If your pleasures run to the hardcore end of things then Warsaw has a number of houses of ill repute that will satisfy your animal urges. If you don’t mind the 20zł taxi fare then Rasputin is at the higher end of the market, with prices beginning at 200zł per hour. A bar area is present for married men who wish to keep out of any saucy going-ons. More central, and cheaper, try Aisha (C-3, ul. Chmielna 10, flat 36) where an hour with a girl usually starts from 130zł. Alternatively, just pick up one of the fliers you’ll find clotting car windscreens and follow the directions. It’s that easy.

The figures in brackets denote the price of the cheapest pint of lager, which in many cases rarely dips below 10zł. Opening hours we list are the official hours given to us by the bars themselves. In practice many will keep their doors open until the last guest.

Bars & Pubs Amnesia B-2, ul. Wspólna 62, tel. 022 625 52 80. Tiffany lamps, exposed brickwork and a scarlet theme generate a vaguely Rubenesque atmosphere, and it’s each man for himself at the weekend, when a permissive crowd squeezes into this lively basement bar. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. (10zł). AEBX

Aurora C 3, ul. Dobra 33/35, tel. 022 498 45 65, www. aurora.waw.pl. A pseudo-industrial interior comes with plenty of red vinyl and exposed concrete and the crowds seems to exclusively consist of student who spend more money on drugs than they do books. The only thing you’re liable to discern over the haze is one of the most obscure music policies in Warsaw; violent punk, abstract jazz and trance. Deep inside a courtyard, so let your ears guide you. QOpen 17:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 07:00. (6zł). UEB NEW

Axis Bar E-3, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton Warsaw Hotel), tel. 022 356 55 55, www.warsaw.hilton.com. Attached to the Hilton, though Axis goes way beyond hotel bar standards. This bi-level bar has top-to-bottom windows, steel fittings and lots of stark colours. It’s a hip and urban combo with clubbish soundtracks played in the background, often by DJs, and a mezzanine level with Austin Powers era carpeting. On the menu a series of adventurous light bites, including wedges served with guacamole, and the accurately described ‘mini burger’. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00. (12zł). AUBW

Bar Below B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 64, tel. 022 621 18 50, www.barbelow.pl. Clocks stop in the subterranean Bar Below where a drink around the bar does not end until life stories are exchanged with the expat regulars who reside here. This is a typically chic new Warsaw bar with a difference; attitudes are left outside the door and it’s one of the few places where strangers mingle with effortless ease as they’re cajoled into joining darts competitions in the back room. Sport comes beamed onto a series of plasma screens, while the bar menu goes way beyond the call of duty with its award winning fry ups. Irish landlord, Niall, has created the perfect bar, striking a balance between trendy urban drinking space and your local back home. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00. (10zł). AB Bierhalle C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 022 827 61 77, www.bierhalle.pl. Warsaw’s best beer arrives to the city centre. Committed drinkers will already have spent a fair percentage of their wages in Bierhalle’s flagship Arkadia venue, and now they have even less distance to travel with the unveiling of this city centre pub. Interiors are dominated by light coloured heavy blocks of timber and busty wenches ferry frothing beer steins from table to table. With its TV screens and plates of booze food this is a great space for the lads, though on our visit the basement toilets smelt like a toxic accident. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (18zł). ABW

Café Foksal C-3, ul. Foksal 21, tel. 022 828 06 05. You may think that Café Foksal is merely an overflow for the nearby Tam Tam and Foksal 19 venues, but behold, it has character of itself. Fashionably battered furniture, cupboard doors functioning as tables, rough wallpaper and a bike stuck to the ceiling make for a cosy atmosphere with possibilities for intimate chatting. EB and Palm are on tap - you decide if that’s good or bad. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 02:00. (9zł). AEBX

Trust others When it comes to organizing a stag night the chances are that the best man will be the biggest half-wit in the pack, in which case it’s always best to put your faith in the professionals. The following companies can organize tailormade packages of Alpha Male activities that range from Kalashnikov’s to strippers to go-karts. Shop around for the deal that suits you: www.warsawstagnights.com www.lastnightoffreedom.co.uk www.polventure.co.uk

Warsaw In Your Pocket

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Cafe Bar Lemon B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 6, tel. 022 829 55 44. Open around the clock, but don’t be surprised to be turned away if you show up looking like you’ve been drinking for three days in a park. Club sounds are played at hangover volume, and the interior is sparsely decorated with formica, leather sofas and pictures of lemons. Q 24hrs (9zł). AUBW Column Bar C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Le Royal Meridien Bristol), tel. 022 551 10 00. Where high-society gathers to live the good life. Wonderful cocktails knocked up by an expert bartender inside an impressive art nouveau interior. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. (21zł). AUEBXW

Drink Bar F-3, ul. Wspólna 52/54, tel. 022 629 26 25. The Drink Bar is the size of a cupboard and comes enveloped in the sort of smog that will leave you considering a trip to the doctor. The décor is eccentric, but the seating is minimal, meaning you’ll often find yourself sitting shoulder to shoulder trading drinking stories with glazed looking strangers. Getting to the toilet involves slaloming past booze casualties, and this place remains unaffected by the explosion of the sterile bars endemic in New Warsaw. QOpen 15:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 02:00. (7zł). NEW

Envy F-4, ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 022 623 02 53, www. envyclub.pl. Abandon hope all ye who enter. Two venues have folded in this exact location within the last eight months, and there’s nothing about Envy to suggest they’ll fare any better in averting the curse of Wilcza 50/52. Undecided as to whether to be a bar, club or restaurant the owners have attempted to be all three, with predictably shambolic results. Minimal effort has gone into redecorating this place, and it still features the red design and stone cladding of the previous ventures that chanced their luck here. This L-shaped space is not small, making the lack of customers all the more noticeable, while the bar staff display little flair for their job. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 05:00. 9zł. AUXW

Extravaganza F-4, al. Armii Ludowej 26, tel. 022 579 30 30. Extravaganza features vinyl booths, projected images and an arsenal of alcohol displayed behind the bar. A padded chillout room, even. Aiming to attract the new money crowd this venue looks set to become The Next Big Thing. Music ranges from Latino to funk, and guests even have the option of eating their dinner off a naked woman. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. (10zł). AUEXW

Something alternative C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 22. Nowy Świat is better known for its designer bars, where local celebs trot around with flamboyant cocktails and the latest ipod technology. But, take a step through the courtyard at number 22 and you’ll find yourself summoned into a shadowy demi monde. Occupying a maze of low-level prefab blocks are a series of dark, divey bars accessed through mesh grill doorways. Most remain nameless, with opening hours left to the discretion of the owners. Populated by students, artists and other people who spend their days in stoned daydreams all the bars come bathed in permanent darkness, with drinkers squeezed in at all angles taking time out to describe the screenplay they plan on writing. If you’ve had your fill of the glossy side of Warsaw this is an essential visit, with night goggles and a preference for smoky rooms necessary.

Warsaw In Your Pocket

NIGHTLIFE Foksal 19 C-3, ul. Foksal 19, tel. 022 829 29 55, www. foksal19.com. If you’re deemed worthy of entry then you’ll find yourself entering a beautiful bar with yellowish lighting illuminating rich interior that combines purple and black surfaces with a huge glowing bar. A design masterstroke, and things get better when you venture to the club upstairs (open weekends only); a dazzling purple décor that evokes that first days of disco vibe. At weekends expect it to be packed out with fashionista drinking cocktails to a background of funk, soul and house sounds. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. (12zł). AW

Funky Jimmy B-4, ul. Wilcza 35/41, tel. 022 621 35 06. Funky Jimmy has a retro Carnaby Street air generated by lounge seating, window booths and psychadelic toilet - you could have stepped into an Austin Powers film. Buddha Bar tunes spill from the speakers, while the relatively small floor plan helps create an atmosphere that buzzes come the weekend. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. (7zł). A

Iguana G-5, ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 022 851 23 23, www.iguanalounge.pl. Once the preserve of the middle-aged expat, Iguana has changed its spots and joined the list of Warsaw’s lounge bars. Draped in a lazy reddish glow, this NoBo copycat succeeds in generating a great atmosphere courtesy of good music and even better drinks. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. (10zł). A Indeks C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 24, tel. 022 826 92 39. A sanctuary from the nearby university, hence a home for students skiving what they should actually be doing. It’s a warren of softly-lit corners with artsy charcoal murals, whitewashed walls and track-lighting combining well with ambient music and dark, solid furniture. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 02:00. (6zł). AEBX Kaiser B-4, ul. Chmielna 24, tel. 022 826 31 91.

Gniazdo Piratów ul. Ogólna 5, tel. 022 633 71 82, www.gniazdopiratow.com.pl. Relive your pirate dreams of yesteryear while cracking jokes about Seaman Stains inside this imperious addition to Warsaw culture. Jolly Roger flags and lanterns hang from the rigging and live sea shanties have the crowds singing along in a tuneless chorus. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00. (6zł). UE

Under world figures, Legia football players and expats talking abou t ta x breaks and strip clubs congregate within these pristine white walls decorated with strings of fair y lights. Al though rather a rou tine looking bar, Kaiser is always a good night out with its central location making it an ideal star t point before going onto more nefarious activities. This was once a football friendly bar, though the scar ves have now been taken down to deter the visiting stag par ties. Q Open 11:00 - 03:00. (9zł). AUBXW

NEW

Level C-3, ul. Chmielna 9a, tel. 022 827 63 05, www.

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 51, tel. 022 222 07 00, www.

levelclub.pl. Dripping with vivid colours, glass beads and antique recliners a visit to Level can’t help but conjure images of sexual decadence and ribaldry. Not unlike the domain of an eccentric artistocrat whose spent his fortune on hallucinogens, Level scores points for individuality, while a music policy of house and trip-hop draws the bold and

hardrockcafe.pl. Hard Rock is deceptively large. The main entrance, on the upper floor, reveals a small bar area with high stools, wood finishes and bar tenders shaking ice and inventing cocktails. Sneak downstairs and Hard Rock unravels into rock star heaven with all the requisite guitars, signed pictures and stage outfits hung from the walls. The bar down here stretches as far as the eye can see and propping it up is a crowd that’s as equally foreign as it is local. Table seats go like hotcakes so be prepared to exercise patience. A list of events are lined up to ensure Hard Rock doesn’t become another short-lived Warsaw fad including live radio shows from the DJ booth. Q AUEBXW

beautiful from across Warsaw. An aesthetic pleasure, and a great place for weekend mischief. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 14:00 - 04:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00. (8zł). AEBW

Lolek E-5, ul. Rokitnicka 20, tel. 022 825 62 02. Deep inside Pole Mokotowskie park so an excellent spot for summer drinking. Inside its all clinking beer glasses as groups of lads settle down on the wooden benches to drink into the night. An open grill softens hangovers, and where it not for the prehistoric wall etchings you could convince yourself you were sitting in a Bavarian beer hall. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. (9zł). AEBX Melodia C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 3/5, tel. 022 583 01 80, www.klubmelodia.pl. Bit of a history this place. Once the haunt of important commie officials from the Party HQ from across the road, Melodia was allowed to slide into disrepair during the 90s. Treated to an extensive refit it’s now back and making waves. Still attracting an exclusive crowd, only this time of a more capitalist background: rich Varsovians and important expats. Take your time to explore, this place is huge. Bar, restaurant and club, with all decorated with dark wood and moody orange shades. Ratty door staff seem determined to see your night ends on a sour note. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 04:00. (8zł). AEBX

Mojito C-3, ul. Chmielna 13a, tel. 022 505 91 86. Perch yourself at the bar and put your faith in the barman; as you’d imagine the Mojito is the forte here, and you’ve got seven different types to put to the sword. A trendy, upmarket interior of leather seating and warm lighting helping to create the prime atmosphere to practise the Hemingway pose. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. (10zł). AUES

Hemisphere A-4, ul. Emili Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel), tel. 022 328 88 88. Housed in the basement of the InterContinental, Hemisphere is a smart space featuring leather armchairs and an ever-stretching bar - perfect to enjoy complicated looking tapas snacks. Pro-bar staff mix cocktails for the casual after-work set, and big matches see huge plasma screens wheeled out. Each Wednesday join a small crowd of expats for whisky tasting sessions. QOpen 17:30 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (17zł). AU Champions Bar B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 022 630 51 19, www.champions.pl. Filled with trophies, pool tables and beeping dart machines this is no less than your classic sports bar, though it’d be great if they added a TV in the toilet so you didn’t miss a kick while taking a natural break from the matches that are beamed out on 34 screens in the bar area. Hot tip: happy hour all weekend. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (12zł). AUX Ice Bar A-4, ul. Pańska 61, tel. 022 654 56 34, www.iceclub.com.pl. How we wish Ice Bar would melt and disappear. Luring a crowd of B-list party people the interiors of this venue are kept at a constant minus eight with all fixtures and fittings made of ice - including chairs and glasses. Protect yourself from the chill by downing vodka and dressing in the complimentary silver-lined ponchos provided at the door. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. (8zł). AUE

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Pistaccio Lobby Bar & Lounge E-3, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton Warsaw Hotel), tel. 022 356 55 55, www.warsaw.hilton.com. A highly impressive venue and already great for people spotting; on our visit we spied a celebrity chef on one side and an Australian tea magnate wearing women’s Dior glasses on the other. The ceiling must be the highest in Warsaw, generating a ligh t, air y atmosph ere, wi th spectacular han gin g lights casting a glow on the drinkers below. Take your drinks on low slung red and green chairs, or else prop up a mirror heavy bar to trade flir ty remarks with the smar tl y presented bar girls. Q Open 08:00 - 01:00. (15zł). TARUXSW

Pixel Club B-4, ul. Chmielna 35, tel. 022 826 50 33, www.pixelclub.pl. A double decker bar inside that great big concrete slab that rises over Chmielna. A long metal bar dominates the upstairs, which comes with bright orange shades, a pop art feel and people who are blatantly not hip enough to do their drinking in Warsaw’s better known nightspots. The service flaps and faffs and thoroughly fails in their duty to serve, allowing you plenty of time to enjoy the views instead. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (9zł). AU NEW

tonishingly popular, especially with students and other sor ts who look like they’ve just finished band practice. Music is weird, wi th plenty of experimental grooves, while coloured projections on the ceilings add to a trippy atmosphere. Q Open 10:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 04:00. 7zł. AXW

Pod Gwiazdami B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 85, enter from ul. Hoża, tel. 022 628 37 67, www.klubpodgwiazdami.pl. Under the Stars proves an apt name for this rooftop bar found atop of a residential building overlooking Marszałkowska. Enter from Hoża and take the lift to find a wannabe-retro space that fills with both regulars and the curious. A wall of blank CDs adds a Sunset Studios feel, while photo exhibits provide the artistic bent. Drinks are poured from stand-up optics, and then consumed on old easy chairs inside this In the know space. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (7zł). R Qfajka F-4, ul. Śniadeckich 8, tel. 022 522 82 25. In the heart of student land, Qfajka is permanently cloaked in darkness with only just enough candle light to illuminate the bookshelves, classical sofas and odds and ends attached to the walls. Young, weird academic sorts love it, and it’s a great place for a beer if you can see through the haze. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. (7zł).

Plan B F-4, al. Wyzwolenia 18, tel. 022 826 54 81, www.planbe.pl. Walk up a cur ving stair well to enter Plan B, a venue where the ceilings are high and the windows are low - so low you’ll have to crouch for views of pl. Zbawiciela. Plan B has seen minimal investment with a design that must have set the owner back the price of a plate of sausages; white tiles, tatty posters and red springy sofas. But this place has become as-

NoBo F-4, ul. Wilcza 58a, tel. 022 622 40 07, www. nobobar.pl. Formerly the hottest address in town the uber cool crowd have moved to pastures new, which means Nobo is now idiot free and back to its best. Secretly hidden away on Wilcza this spot brings back murky memories of a Moroccan knocking shop with its low ottomans, slash screens and blood red colours. Find vampy girls schmoozing around the bar, chefs cooking fusion from behind an open kitchen, and chilled out trance sounds emanating from the DJ decks. Definitely a destination to visit. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. (9zł). AUBW

+ One Bar A-4, ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 022 328 87 55, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Climb to the first floor of the InterContinental to find this classic bar. Bookcases and framed pictures of steam trains fill the walls, while pretty girls in little black dresses rush around keeping your drink full. Excellent pianist. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (17zł). AUEW Opium B-2, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. 022 827 71 61. Persian drapes and overpowering incense dominate the interior, while Warsaw fashionista hold court on the cushions and mattresses scattered on the floor of the chill out lounge. Downstairs, in the space once occupied by the ghastly Barbados club, a largish club area filled with figures of Buddha and a couple of bars. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. (8zł). AE Organza Shot Bar B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 4, tel. 022 827 50 70, www.kluborganza.pl. Flushed in orange colours this is the ideal warm up spot before hitting the glories of the clubs next door. The name is a giveaway, shots are the order of the day here, and with Poland sinking into its annual Arctic age you could do a lot worse than pitching up here to melt the icicle hanging from your nose. We got stuck into the cherry kamikaWarsaw In Your Pocket

Republica Latina C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 1, tel. 022 331 13 11, www.republicalatina.pl. Potent cocktails - you’re guaranteed to spend the next day hiding under the bedsheets - served by bartenders who don’t insist on spinning bottles and catching glasses behind their backs. The hip, red-lit interior is a perfect evening primer. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (10zł). W

ze’s and within moments our notes had turned to hieroglyphics. The scattering of sofas are recommended for such times of alcoholic paralysis. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri 16:00 - 05:00, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (8zł). AUE

Pędzący Królik B-2, ul. Moliera 8, tel. 022 826 02 45. Putting the bar into barmy, the design is all chequered floors, pink armchairs and huge mirrors. The highlight: a giant portrait of a rabbit reclining with a fan. Totally bonkers, and a kick in the nuts to all the hyper-trendy drinking spots in the neighbourhood. The name alone deserves a gold button: The Running Rabbit. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (10zł). AUEW Panorama Club B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 022 630 74 35, www.marriott.com/wawpl. You half expect to meet JR Ewing in this glittering 40th floor bar. Sweeping views of Warsaw are paired with ritzy furnishings. On the top floor of the Marriott this is the perfect platform to discuss mergers and climb the corporate ladder. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00. (17zł). AF

Paparazzi B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 022 828 42 19, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Look forward to an urbane cocktail bar with a huge bar as centre piece, and a photos of screen icons clinging to the walls. This is the place where city traders and budding tycoons came to let off steam and pick-up trophy girlfriends, while showing off clumsy moves on a newly added dance floor. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. (11zł). AW

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NIGHTLIFE Stacja Rynek B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 15, tel. 022 635 76 82, www.stacjarynek.pl. Warsaw’s old town closes down and dies most nights, with most locals choosing to do their drinking closer to the centre in pubs. That stands to change with the opening of Stacja Rynek, an engaging effort with crimson colours and Persian rugs stretched out over the floor. Accessed via a steep stairwell this subterranean venue has a downtempo atmosphere with jazz sounds on the speakers and a collection of springy armchairs to dissolve into. Not bad at all, and hopefully the start of old town’s social renaissance. QOpen 10:30 - 24:00. (9zł). AB Szparka Café

Sense C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 022 826 65 70, www. sensecafe.com. A staunch editorial favourite, it’s hard to imagine life before Sense. Exploding on the scene a few years back the team at Sense have shown this bar is no fad, with cloth-suited staff knocking out what are consistently some of the best cocktails in town inside a show stealing interior that involves copper pipes and a crushed glass bar. Ideal to conduct business during the day, by night Sense goes up a gear as after-work expats swap stories around the circular bar area. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (10zł). A

Shanghai Suite B-2, pl. Pilsudskiego 2, tel. 022 323 76 03. Dark and stark, Shanghai Suite is a sharply designed drinkery that collects a clientele of ties off after work boozers. Sit on low stools alongside the long, illuminated bar, or else take to the completely nutty circular booths to enjoy the company of the thin blondynka on your arm. A couple of parasols and exposed pipes cling to the night black ceiling, and good looking staff dressed in oriental patterns prepare some of the best cocktails in Warsaw - we recommend the Face to Face. Yet to become hugely popular, which is by no means a bad thing judging by the groups of pillocks found in the nearby Cinnamon. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (10zł). A

Sheesha Lounge B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 3, tel. 022 828 25 25, www.sheesha.pl. It’s all very Arabian Nights here with hookah pipes and ottoman strewn around the gallery seating upstairs, and jangly rhythms played downstairs to a crowd that does its best to keep up with the exotic beats. Young and fashionable, so expect to meet discouraging looks at the door if you’re not dressed the part. QOpen 16:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 04:00. (9zł). A

Skład Butelek ul. 11 listopada 22, www.skladbutelek. pl. Set in the heart of Praga (Warsaw’s most pretentious/ fashionable district), Skład Butelek still manages to keep it real and is a refreshing break when you’ve had enough of conversations about what Sartre really meant. More like a squat than a nightclub but the absence of door policy, plenty of cheap beer (go for the unpasteurised Kozlak) and very friendly crowd make the Bottle Bank (as the name translates) an essential stop on a drinking tour of Warsaw. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. (6zł).

SomePlace Else G-3, ul. Prusa 2, (Sheraton Warsaw Hotel), tel. 022 450 67 10, www.sheraton.com.pl. You may know people who live here. Someplace Else is an expat legend, and amid the American memorabilia you’ll find a regular crew of foreigners shouting their orders above the live music which plays every night. The perfect bar menu and live sports complete the picture. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Mon 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (13zł). AEXW Warsaw In Your Pocket

C-4, pl. Trzech Krzyży 16a, tel. 022 621 03 70, www. cafeszparka.pl. Most people can’t wait to tell you how much they hate Szparka, but those are the same people you’ll see rolling out of their doors come the early hours of Sunday. The multi-level interior has the bland appeal of a chain bar back home, the staff can infuriate and the conversations you’ll overhear revolve around gloating about personal wealth. Nonetheless, there’s a special ingredient in the air that keeps people coming back for more, not least the obscenely flexible opening hours. Just stay away from the food. QOpen 07:00 - 05:00. (10zł). AEBXW

Tam Tam C-3, ul. Foksal 18, tel. 022 828 26 22, www.tamtam. com.pl. A completely absurd bar with a zulu themed interior that has proved popular with the natives for years. Warrior masks and murals of spear throwing tribesmen decorate the walls and the menu features hastily prepared cocktails and items like Fruity Djibouti. It’s completely tasteless, but nevertheless continues to rake the cash in. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (9zł). AEBX

The Cinnamon B-3, pl. Piłsudskiego 1, tel. 022 323 76 00, www.thecinnamon.pl. Some claim the glory days of Cinammon have gone, which is great news if you’ve ever been turned away by the stuck-up half-wit guarding the velvet rope - is this Warsaw’s most loathsome character? You’ll still find a crowd of platinum blondes dancing on the bar and knocking over cocktails, though it seems the glitterati have chosen to move on. Occupying a chunk of the Metropolitan building the décor is all lunar curves and smooth lines, though is starting to look increasingly passe. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri 09:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. (9zł). AUXW

Clubs Balsam E-6, Forty Mokotów, ul. Racławicka 99, tel. 022 898 28 24, www.balsam.net.pl. Impress your friends by telling them about this place. Little known outside clubbing circles Balsam has acquired cult status. Hidden inside the guts of Fort Mokotów, a series of vaulted rooms are home to varying degrees of madness, and the crowd consists of people wearing prescription glasses and off their heads on disco beans. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 12:00 - 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (8zł). AEBW

Barbie Bar C-4, ul. Żurawia 6/12 (enter from ul. Nowogrodzka), tel. 0 692 70 29 68, www.barbiebar.pl. Once a gay hangout it’s now all gone teenage, so don’t be surprised to find a cross-section of Warsaw’s rich kids dancing on tables and throwing up in toilets. It’s still a pink palace with a glam Boogie Nights vibe, and you really ought to prepare yourself for sensory overload before stepping in here; pink scatter cushions, chandeliers and red bits of fur hang from the walls. QOpen 21:30 - 05:00, Tue 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Sun. (9zł). W

Club 70 E-2, ul. Waliców 9, tel. 022 654 71 41. A dark, smok y cellar that draws student types dressed in orange tank tops and charity shop cast offs, all grooving away to the sounds of the 70s. Q Open 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. (8zł). A Club Hotl B-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, tel. 022 826 74 66. Decent(ish) little bar/club in the former Europejski Hotel building. They must have thought long and hard about the name. Not really large enough to be considered a proper club but does have a dance floor and a fair bit of seating. DJs perform from a booth at the bar but don’t take kindly to receiving orders for beer.QOpen 22:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. (12ł). AUBW

Cocaine A-2, al. Solidarności 82a, tel. 022 636 01 03, www.cocaine.com.pl. A large, multi-level project which clearly must have cost a few suitcases of złotys. Plenty of designer trappings and weird installations fill the interior, though they’re clearly lost on a crowd decked out in tracksuits and shaved heads. Interesting name, though we’re assuming anyone discovered hoovering up rails of Colombian’s finest will face expulsion. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. (10zł). AUX Dekada E-4, ul. Grójecka 19/25, tel. 022 668 97 77, www. dekada.pl. A night spent here guarantees a few stories the next day, something helped by the crowd; a mix of slightly older expats picking off girls half their age. If you wish, sit inside a 1950s tram and observe the pantomime around you, otherwise take to a dance floor which plays different sounds depending on the night. The weekends are strictly disco, with a lusty scent hanging thick in the air. For something a little more low-key visit on Monday for some excellent jazz nights. Door policy can be strict on young males. QOpen 19:00 - 07:00, Sat 20:00 - 07:00. Closed Sun. AUE

Enklawa B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. 022 827 31 51, www.enklawa.com. This is where a young, elite crowd head to the moment the doors close at Paparazzi. Find cigarette slim girls and office hotshots trotting down the red carpet to the entrance, before opting to drink within an inch of Hades inside a two level interior of stone cladding and suspended steel tubing. The musical menu suits the bevvied-up out-of-sync dance moves practiced by the guests, with disco, salsa and chart hits getting airplay throughout the week. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. (8zł). AE

The Living Room C-3, ul. Foksal 18, tel. 022 826 39 28, www.livingroom. pl. A good looking bar decorated entirely with clean, cream colours and manicured shrubs. Eclectic music from obscure dance and jazz acts, super service and ashtrays only big enough for one cigarette. Without exception the crowd is dressed from head to heel in black. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. (10zł). AXW

W Oparach Absurdu H-1, ul. Ząbkowska 6, tel. 0 660 78 03 19, www.oparyabsurdu.pl. Shambolic charm aplently in what must rank as one of Warsaw’s most charismatic bars. Penetrate the fog to find wannabe artists and actors holding court amid the flea market junk, theatre seats and Persian rugs. One in a million, and well worth the jaunt into Praga. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (7zł). E Zakątek B-4, ul. Chmielna 5, tel. 022 826 70 15. Faintly redolent of a Kraków liquor den, it fills with educated whisperings, and a surreal, gentle quality attributed to the smattering of antiques, cushions and low-key tunes. Excellent. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (7zł).

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NIGHTLIFE Ground Zero F-3, ul. Wspólna 62, tel. 022 625 39 76, www.groundzero.pl. Ground Zero is set inside a former Cold War nuclear shelter and there are times when it’s tempting to test just how bomb proof it really is. This is Warsaw’s most notorious meat market with chart dance hits played to crowds of lads aching to knock each other out and teenaged girls impressed by such shows of gorilla virility. Often packed to the rafters, a disturbing indictment on the youth of Warsaw. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun. (7zł).

Klubo Kawiarnia B-3, ul. Czackiego (first gate from ul. Świętokrzyska), www.klubokawiarnia.pl. Covertly hidden down an unmarked courtyard the only way to find Klubo is to use your detective skills and trail behind anyone who looks like they’re off clubbing. Some regulars claim this venue is losing its magic, though all remain fiercely loyal customers. This is one of the busiest danceterias in town complete with walls that drip with sweat and teeth rattling house tunes. Filled with pictures of Lenin, wonky lampshades and sofas salvaged from the rubbish heap this continues to serve as a benchmark in madness, with a stint in detox recommended to anyone left walking after the weekend. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 04:00.

Mono B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 11a, tel. 022 827 45 57. Decorated with a Clockwork Orange era design Mono Bar comes dolled up in vintage chocolate and carrot shades, with big circles imprinted on the walls, and retro sofas that wouldn’t be out of place in a 70s council flat. The crowds cool, with some of the demure blondes being too cool for their own ego, but they do know how to party and the weekends here can be great fun. Expect disco, funk and house emanating from the decks. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (9zł). PAE

NIGHTLIFE www.inyourpocket.com Paprotka B-2, pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 022 827 52 42, www.paprotka.pl. A gigantic space split into two sections – a dance floor, and a chillout/drinking area. The design is quasi-kitsch, with flashing lights aplenty, a supporting pillar made of salt and lots of bright primary colours. The owner, the self-proclaimed Captain Sparky, frequently takes to the decks himself playing a combo of funk, soul, hip hop and disco. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. (10zł). AUX Piekarnia D-1, ul. Młocińska 11, tel. 022 636 49 79, www.pieksa.pl. Its been fashionable for years to call Piekarnia unfashionable, but that does nothing to stop top DJs from playing here, and the crowds from lining up outside the door. Out-of-the-way, but always a good night, with a very interesting toilet as well. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. (8zł). A

Platinium Club F-2, ul. Fredry 6, tel. 022 596 46 66, www.platiniumclub.pl. Possibly Warsaw’s next top club comes set inside a former bank with a beautiful entrance. Door police can be tough, but you’re guaranteed access by waving a copy of In Your Pocket. Serious cash has been spent inside, with glowing glass archways next to chandeliers and underfloor lighting topped with antique chairs. Quite a masterpiece, and it comes complimented with a decent musical menu and bar tenders who know their job. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sat 16:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. 12zł. AEXW

Utopia B-3, ul. Jasna 1, tel. 022 827 15 40, www. utopiaclub.eu. The cretins choice. Door selection is ruthless, ensuring only idiots wearing figure hugging black Prada get to pose inside these plastic confines of what still, amazingly, is rated as one of Warsaw’s top clubs. The dance floor is tiny, situated in a sharply lit white room, with softly lit chill and rooms spidering off in different directions. Although you’ll probably see a few people locked in naughty clinches, you can’t help but wonder if the crowds are in reality playing gay for the night to add to their cool points. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 06:00, Sat 13:00 - 06:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. (10zł). AE

Irish Bradley’s E-3, ul. Sienna 39, tel. 022 654 66 56. You’ll need to traipse through an office block to find this bubbly boozer that has all the familiarity of a bar run by an Irishman. This L-shaped Irish run space is the most authentic paddy pub in town, and comes with framed rugby shirts, live music at the end of the week and a menu that includes obscenely portioned breakfasts. Loners won’t find a shortage of English accents to befriend and a satellite dish guarantees big crowds for sporting fixtures. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. (8zł). AUEBW

Cork Irish Pub al. Niepodległości 19, tel. 022 853 00 61. Landlord Kevin has upped and left, taking his staff, satellite dish and even the stained glass to his new downtown venture Bradley’s. The regulars have followed, replaced by a crowd of sketchy looking locals, leading expat wags to re-christen this outpost Cork Polish Pub. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. (6zł). AEW

Luztro C-4, al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luztro.pl. Sex, drugs and techno combine for hardcore nights at Warsaw’s premier club for electro sounds. Dark and dirty this is a place where walls shake and every possible space is utilized for dancing. Expect a trendy, urban crowd, though the door police are surprisingly liberal, allowing pretty much anyone to join the madness. Beer comes in plastic glasses, and there’s a constant line twitching to conduct nefarious transactions in the toilets. Open 24hrs at the weekend, with the party finally fading at 9am each Monday. Q Open 20:00 - 07:00. Fri, Sat, Sun 24hrs. Closed Mon. AP

Underground Club Cafe B-3, ul. Marszałkowska

Irish Pub B-2, ul. Miodowa 3, tel. 022 826 25 33, www.

126/134, tel. 022 826 70 48, www.under.pl. The backpacker and student choice. Beer monster teenagers stagger around to chart hits inside a design that would have looked futuristic two decades back. Not for the serious clubber, but always a good night out, and one of the best places to finish the night with a variety of unidentified numbers added to your phone. QOpen 13:00 - 05:00, Sun 16:00 - 05:00. (9zł). AE

irishpub.fip.pl. Despite the name, despite the Guinness and despite the rowdy atmosphere, the only English accents you’ll hear will come from tourists and travellers who have wondered in out of curiosity. A weather-beaten interior adorned with frayed posters isn’t dissimilar to the pubs once found on the Emerald Isle, but Warsaw’s expats will rarely acknowledge this place even exists, let alone frequent it. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. (7zł). AEGW

Milch Supper Club B-4, ul. Hoża 50, tel. 022 745 05

Most bars with a screen will subscribe to Canal + Sport, a channel that not only has intensive coverage of the local sides, but also shows English Premiership games each Saturday and Sunday. The only downside is the droll Polish commentary rattling on in the background. If you demand Sky Sports then Warsaw has a number of decent options. First off, SomePlace Else in the Sheraton (G-3, ul. Prusa 2) has a set of screens stationed around a square bar – ideal for chat. Downside: sound frequently turned down, especially in the evenings. Champions in the Marriott (B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79) is a long-standing favourite, with over 30 TVs relaying multiple channels, enabling you to keep track of several games at the same time. Although huge, it’s also hugely popular so we recommend you book a table in advance if there’s a particularly big international or Champions League match on. Close by Bradley’s (E-3, ul. Sienna 39) offers a proper pub environment to view the pick of games beamed in from a huge dish. Be warned though, if there’s a clash between rugby and football, rugby wins. Finally, Bar Below (B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 64) have four satellite dishes relaying sport, as well as a series of screens located around the bar; if it’s on, you’re guaranteed to catch the action.

60. Spread around several cellar rooms, this place straddles the club/bar line: club quality DJs (including plenty of imported big names) and sound but no dancefloor. The toilet is baffling, and the VIP room comes with pieces of expensive designer art - do your best to get past the velvet rope and you’ll be richly rewarded: not by the prices mind, the bar is 20% more expensive, with prices occasionally made up on the spot. Supposedly hugely popular with celebs, the men here are either Italian, or want to be Italian, while the ladies are the sort who spend their days stressing over which shoes to pair with their handbag. A must see. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. AW

Organza B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 4, tel. 022 827 50 70, www.kluborganza.pl. Cramped and sweaty dance floor downstairs, deeps sofas on the ground floor and a mezzanine level thoughtfully provided to keep an eye on prospective partners. Organza was once hugely trendy, now it’s just hugely popular, essentially with people in good jobs who like to misbehave every now and again. The DJs record bag includes lots of Latin, funk and disco, sounds which pretty girls in Warsaw seemingly love to gyrate too. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (9zł). A

Warsaw In Your Pocket

Football on the box

Patrick’s B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 31, tel. 022 628 93 71. An essential stop off if you want to mingle with local headcases and British stag groups. Expats tend to know better and avoid this grotty pub, and we’ve heard several libelous stories circling on the grapevine about this bar. All we’ll say is be careful with who you choose to drink with. QOpen 10.00 - 05:00. (8zł). AE

Jazz Blender Bar B-2, pl. Piłsudskiego 3, tel. 022 331 89 00. Found inside Norman Foster’s award-winning Metropolitan the interior fits nicely with the host building; all red leather seating and curving walls. Evenings are when the bar part in Blender Bar comes to the fore, when the local jazz talent dons trupmets and entertains a young crowd. At weekends 60zł buys all you can drink. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 09:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (9zł). AUB

Bojangles Bar & Lounge B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 45 (Polonia Palace Hotel), tel. 022 318 28 33, www.bojangles.pl. A slick bar with a jazz policy and black and white prints of music heroes on the walls. It’s definitely nice to see hotel bars now making an effort to be different, and Bojangles delivers high standards you’d demand from an upmarket hotel. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. (14zł). ARUE

Jazz Bistro G-4, ul. Piękna 20, tel. 022 627 41 51, www.jazzbistro.pl. Glossy venture aimed and packaged towards a smart-casual set of customers. An attractive interior, strong cocktails and frequent live performances that are never loud enough to disturb conversation. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (8zł). AUEBXW

Jazz Bistro Gwiazdeczka B-2, ul. Piwna 40, tel. 022 887 87 64, www.jazzbistro.pl. Spotless whitewashed archways and vaulted ceilings are cheered up by trimmed shrubs, and then there’s the show-stealing cobble-floored, glass covered atrium. Very striking. Live performances most evenings. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (9zł). JAEBX

Jazz Café Helicon B-2, ul. Freta 45/47, tel. 022 635 95 05. A top jazz venue that’s reopened following a full refit to grant it a new lease of life. The black and white floor tiles can get slippy with spilt beer but what else can you expect from an atmospheric jazz dive. Trumpets dangle above tables occupied by music fans, while a dividing wall has been knocked through to soak in the extra customers. The live music nights are red hot and reason enough to visit an area that goes to sleep the moment night sets. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (7zł). JAEB

Nu Jazz Bistro C-4, ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 022 621 89 89, www.jazzbistro.pl. A cavernous bar decorated sparingly with slick furnishings and attractive staff. Good cocktails, served by proficient bartenders, and a strong fusion menu. The occasional jazz performances can be excellent, and the basement bar features comfortable seating and a big screen for sports action. Neither loud nor lively, expect the tables to be occupied by couples with single roses in front of them. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. (10zł). AEBXW Tygmont B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. 022 828 34 09, www. tygmont.com.pl. The music comes first inside this basic brick basement. Things get dark and loud but the weekend jazz performances can be memorable as chanteuses take to the stage as smoke swirls around them. A cellar location and shadowy coat check guy give it all the atmosphere of a speakeasy. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 05:00. (9zł). AE

Microbreweries Bierhalle D-1, al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia Shopping Mall), tel. 022 323 68 55, www.bierhalle.pl. Decorated with an industrial motif, and dominated by a giant, tailor-made glass brewing machine, this easily ranks as the best microbrewery in Poland. Upstairs a more Bavarian theme prevails with waiters in lederhosen and sausages imported from Germany. It’s the beer that is the magnet though, and you won’t leave until you’re completely plastered. You may not want to leave at all. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (18zł). AUEGW

BrowArmia F-2, ul. Królewska 1, tel. 022 826 54 55, www.browarmia.pl. Warsaw’s other microbrewery, and definitely a poor relation to Bierhalle. BrowArmia has a decent design, with all the tanks and dials on display, but shares little of the buzzing atmosphere of its rival. With so many tables seemingly set aside for dining BrowArmia lacks the clinking glasses and raised voices, while sour service, and a particularly stern hostess at the door, do little to improve matters. As for the beer? Most people seem to be happy to move on after one. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10zł). AUE

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GAY WARSAW While Poland is one of the few countries in which homosexuality has never been punished by state law, do not for one moment think you have entered a gay friendly nation. Centuries of hardcore Catholicism matched with provincial attitudes have conspired to create an atmosphere where homosexuality is still regarded as morally incorrect by a vast number of the population. Warsaw, a thriving capital city with a blossoming international population does however offer a far more tolerant understanding; only a few years back a pride march in Kraków – Poland’s self-proclaimed capital of culture – ended in bloody street battles after being ambushed by local thugs and extremists. In Warsaw, last year, a similar march went off peacefully, in spite of the veiled threats from a hundred or so skinheads. The march, banned for the previous two years by city authorities, was deemed a success, and attended peacefully by over two thousand demonstrators. Whether or not attitudes are softening remains open to debate. Both the prime minister, Jarosław Kaczyński, and his president and twin, Lech Kaczyński, have stirred discontent; the latter by proclaiming homosexuality as being ‘unnatural’ and the former for declaring homosexuals should be banned from taking teaching posts. Harsh sentiments, but not nearly as malignant as the ones voiced by LPR politician Wojciech Wierzejski whose memorable rants reasoned ‘gays should be bludgeoned… they are all paedophiles and members of the mafia’. Yet by the same rule inroads into bigotry are being made. In 2004 Poland had its first gay wedding (not officially recognized), and the following year Warsaw’s public transport body became the first company to officially acknowledge homosexual relationships by giving gay employees and their partners the right to free transport. Although Warsaw, as yet, offers no natural centre for the gay community this can’t be taken as a sign of something more sinister – even the straight scene struggles to boast any area that can be regarded as a true nightlife hub such as Barcelona’s Las Ramblas. While public demonstrations of affection are at best tolerated, at worst dangerous, the city offers numerous gay friendly venues; whether they be the trendy Między Nami café (C-4, ul. Bracka 4), the expat Tex-Mex favourite the Warsaw Tortilla Factory (B-4, ul. Wilcza 46) or full on techno hangouts like Luztro (C-4, al. Jerozolimskie 6). For gays in Poland the road ahead remains a long one, but for a country that still listed homosexuality as a disease up until 1991 the nation has already started cautiously edging forward. For further info on gay life in Poland click to the English-language website www.gayguide.net.

Gay venues Fantom C-4, ul. Bracka 20a (enter through the courtyard), tel. 022 828 54 09, www.gay.pl/fantom. The oldest existing gay venue in Warsaw can be found down a dark courtyard on Bracka occupying the basement of a prewar palace. Two separate entrances here. Ring the buzzer on the right hand side of the building and descend the stairs to access their sauna. On entry you’ll be handed a pair of nasty flip-flops and a threadbare towel. Inside find a bar area, and a long corridor that leads to a scummy looking jacuzzi, dark room and sauna. It might be getting murky, but this is definitely the choice of sauna for many of the capitals queers. The left hand entrance leads to a more fully-clothed area with a popular bar, a couple of cinema screens and a labyrinth. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00, Fri 14:00 - 04:00, Sat 14:00 - 05:00, Sun 16:00 - 03:00. (6zł). A Warsaw In Your Pocket

HISTORY Galeria A-3, al. Jana Pawła II (Hala Mirowska). One of the best clubs to open in Warsaw for a long while. Ring the bell, and if the reflective door swings open you can count yourself as being one cool cat. Situated in the basement of Hala Mirowska the Galeria is predominantly gay but can count itself hetero-friendly. To call the interior bare bones would be being generous – ordinary lighting with a few scabby sofas thrown around. The atmosphere is something else, however, and not unlike something found in a Berlin haunt. Fetish parties, drag nights, karaoke etc, all enjoyed by urban characters pilled off their heads. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00.

Galla A-3, ul. Ptasia 2, tel. 022 652 19 86, www.galla. zip.pl. A modern sauna downstairs, complete with curtained off showers, steam room, lounge area and a pitch black labyrinth. Upstairs a communal video area with a giant vinyl mattress. Men only on most days, apart from Sunday’s which see lesbians and curious couples welcomed. QOpen 14:00 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.

Early fortified settlements on the site of today’s Warsaw were Brodńo (dating from possibly as early as the 9th century) and Jazdów (12th century). History books suggest that the Duke of Płock stayed on the grounds of a small village called Warszowa after a raid on Jazdów in 1281. In the 14th century it became one of the seats of the Mazovian Knights, and in 1413 Janusz the Elder made Warsaw his main residence, signaling its rise to prominence. In 1526 Warsaw was incorporated into the Polish crown and the town rapidly grew in size and stature. 1569 Poland and Lithuania are united and parliament shifts from Kraków to the more centrally located Warsaw.

1655 - 1660 sees prolonged warfare with Sweden. 1700 - 1721 The Great Northern War sees Polish forces run ragged by the Swedes and Russians.

solutely diminutive in size, this three level bar can be found squeezed between a police station and furniture store. A relaxed atmosphere reigns, with the sheer size of this place meaning it’s not hard to get find conversation. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00.

1764 Stanisław August Poniatowski becomes king. His finest hour comes in 1791 with the signing of a constitution that promises sweeping reforms. Russia invades in 1792 to quash the constitution and in 1793 the Second Partition of Poland promises the end of the Polish state.

Rasko E-2, ul. Krochmalna 32a, tel. 022 890 02 99,

1795 Austria, Russia and Prussia impose a third partition of Poland, effectively ending Polish independence.

Tomba Tomba B-1, ul. Brzozowa 37, tel. 022 831 95 39. A cracking little club, one of the friendliest and best in town. Four levels of hedonistic carnage. Dance-floor and gallery seating area on the ground floor and chill-out bar on the first floor. Top floor houses only a huge bed and find a party-sized jacuzzi in the basement. Surprisingly this means it’s a gay club but they’re very hetrofriendly. Free ice-cream all night and open far later than is healthy. Bring sunglasses, walking out on Saturday morning hurts. QOpen 22:00 - 12:00, Sun 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. (7zł). BGW

Utopia B-3, ul. Jasna 1, tel. 022 827 15 40, www.utopia.waw.pl. The cretins choice. Door selection is ruthless, ensuring only idiots wearing figure hugging black Prada get to pose inside these plastic confines of what still, amazingly, is rated as one of Warsaw’s top clubs. The dance floor is tiny, situated in a sharp lit white room, with softly lit chill rooms spidering off in different directions. Although you’ll probably see a few people locked in naughty clinches, you can’t help but wonder if the crowds are in reality playing gay for the night to add to their cool points. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 06:00, Sat 13:00 - 06:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. (10zł). AE

The law The legal situation is simple; age of consent is the same as for straight couples: 15. Adoption by homosexuals is not permitted, and though marriage is not recognized there are no legal issues associated with being registered as a gay couple. As with straight people, prostitution is not illegal, simply because there is not a law against it. What is illegal however is pimping, so forget any fast-cash scenarios you may have hatched.

1945 Poland falls under the Soviet sphere of influence - business is nationalized; political and religious leaders are imprisoned and deported. From 1945 onward Poland falls under the Soviet sphere of influence. Business is nationalized and political and religious leaders are imprisoned. With much of the capital, Warsaw, in ruins, Łódź is used as Poland’s temporary capital until 1948. In 1947 the Communists consolidate a political monopoly after rigged elections. In 1955 the Warsaw Pact is created and Warsaw’s Palace of Culture is completed.

1596 King Sigismund III Vasa moves his court to Warsaw.

Lodi Dodi C-4, ul. Wilcza 23, tel. 0 506 82 53 83. Ab-

www.rasko.pl. A vaguely fun gay bar hosting regular exhibitions, poetry readings as well as less cerberal disco nights and drag shows. Filled with sofas, plants and lampshades, Rasko has plenty of appeal and an entrance policy that Utopia should take note of. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00. (7zł). AE

1945 January 17 - Soviet and Polish units enter the rubble of Warsaw. Total destruction stands at 84%, civilian losses are estimated at over 700,000.

1807 Napoleon’s troops enter Warsaw and a semiindependent Duchy of Warsaw is created. Following the collapse of Napoleon’s campaign in Russia, the 1815 congress of Vienna rules that Warsaw is to come under Imperial Russian tutelage, effectively wiping Poland off the map for over a century. November 23, 1830 An armed uprising in Warsaw takes the Russians until September 1831 to crush.

Władysław Gomułka becomes Poland’s premier in 1956 and a political thaw begins. Events in Gdańsk are the first to rock the system; protesting about plunging living standards workers at the Lenin Shipyards call a strike in 1970, with the army promptly called in to intervene. Bloody clashes lead to the deaths of 44 workers, and ultimately force Gomułka out of power. The late 1970s witness a dramatic drop in living standards and spiraling prices; a half-mad economic policy propped up by foreign loans is exposed as useless. 1978 sees Cardinal Karol Wojtyła elected as Pope and taking the name John Paul II. The following year he returns for a nine day tour of his native Poland in what is regarded by many as the pivotal point in the collapse of communism. Preaching 32 sermons in nine days his brief return offers hope and unity to Poles, and lights the flame that will later explode in the Solidarność (Solidarity) revolution. 1980 A general strike is called in August by the fledgling Solidarność trade union, led by shipyard electrician Lech Wałęsa. 1981 Martial law is declared by the Minister of Defence General Jaruzelski on December 13. 1982 Solidarność is outlawed by the government.

1863 - 1864 Citizens of Warsaw again try and fail to topple the governing Russian government in what becomes known as the January Insurrection. Warsaw flourishes for the next half a century under Mayor Starykiewicz. 1918 The end of World War I leads to the collapse of the partitioning powers. Polish hero Józef Piłsudski is released from detention in Germany and assumes control of Poland. Warsaw is once again the capital of an independent Poland. 1920 Bolshevik troops invade Poland, but are beaten back after the epic Battle of Warsaw, effectively saving post-WWI Europe from the Red Army. 1921 The foundation of the first modern Polish constitution and beginning of what is commonly called the 2nd Polish Republic. 1939 August 23 - The Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact is signed. Based around Soviet/German non-aggression it effectively carves Poland up between the two. Poland is invaded on September 1, with the first gunshots fired on the Westerplatte Peninsula in the north, signaling the start of WWII. On September 16 the east of Poland is invaded by the USSR, and Poland capitulates six weeks later. 1944 August 1 – Poland’s Home Army launches the Warsaw Uprising with the intention of liberating Warsaw from Nazi occupation. It ends in defeat two months later with the city in ruins.

1983 Martial law is lifted in July and most political leaders released from prison. Lech Wałęsa receives the Nobel Peace Prize. 1985-88 Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev’s perestroika reforms initiate a period of liberalization, though economic crisis and popular frustration continue to deepen. 1989 Following more strikes Solidarność is legalized. Partlyfree elections are held. Solidarność sweeps the elections and the Communist regime collapses. 1990 Lech Wałęsa becomes the first popularly-elected president of post-Communist Poland. 2004 Poland enters the European Union on May 1, 2004 sparking a mass exodus of young Poles seeking their fortune. 2005 April 2 Following a long battle with illness Pope John Paul II passes away. His funeral in the Vatican is attended by a million Poles.

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WHAT TO SEE Essential Warsaw If time is of the essence then do your best to hit these must-sees of Warsaw: A walk around the streets of Old Town is a must, and a visit to the Historical Museum of Warsaw in the Rynek will give you a good outline of the history of the city. Warsaw’s defining landmark is the Palace of Culture and Science (PKiN) right in the city centre, and you’ll find the best views in the city on the top floor panorama level. Possibly no other city was effected more by WWII than Poland’s capital. The Warsaw Uprising Museum – one of the best museums in the country - is an essential stop for those looking to learn about the most tragic episode in the history of the city. A visit to the Gestapo-run Pawiak Prison proves equally powerful, while those looking for traces of the cities Jewish past should visit the vast and overgrown graveyard on ul. Okopowa. For something a little less depressing take a trip to the other side of the river to witness first hand the weirdness otherwise known as the Russian Market. Last but not least, Łazienki Park and Palace afford a glimpse of Imperial Poland, and a walk around the grounds makes for a pleasant afternoon. Art lovers should make a beeline to Warsaw’s Zachęta Gallery, one of the leading contemporary galleries in the country, and frequently the site of top notch exhibitions.

Places of interest Fotoplastikon F-3, al. Jerozolimskie 51, tel. 022 625 35 52, www.fotoplastikon.stereos.com.pl. Fotoplastikon allows people to glimpse life throughout 20th century Warsaw via a selection of 3D images. During both wars it was fully operational, acting as contact point for the Polish underground during Nazi occupation. The show lasts around 20 minutes. QOpen 15:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Fri, Sun. Admission 20/10zł.

Gestapo HQ (Mauzoleum Walki i Męczeństwa) G-4, al. Szucha 25, tel. 022 629 49 19, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.art.pl. Every bit as disturbing as Pawiak is the former Gestapo HQ, found on al. Szucha 25. Built between 1927 and 1930, the building’s original purpose was to serve as a centre for religious beliefs. In 1939 it came under control of the Nazi regime, and for the next five years became one of the most feared addresses in Poland operating, among other capacities, as a brutal interrogation centre. The imposing building, currently housing the Ministry of Education, was left untouched by the carnage of war and now also holds a small but sobering museum within its bowels. Cells, where prisoners were held prior to interrogation, have been left largely as they were. Known as ‘trams,’ Poles would be sat on wooden benches facing the wall as they awaited their fate. Forbidden to eat or sleep, they were compelled to sit motionless in darkness, sometimes for days on end. Failure to do so would lead to almost certain death. The bullet marks scarring the walls tell their own harrowing story. Although the torture cells have long since been blocked off, the English language tape that the curator plays paints a vivid and repulsive picture. Prisoners were subjected to savage beatings, attacked with dogs and electrocuted. Those who didn’t co-operate would, in some cases, be forced to watch their own families being tortured. The office where prisoners would have been ‘checked in’ also remains, complete with a faded portrait of Hitler and battered issues of Wehrmacht magazine lying around. Manacles, bullwhips and other sinister instruments can also be seen stacked on the bookshelf. QOpen, Wed 09:00 - 17:00, Thu, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free. Warsaw In Your Pocket

WHAT TO SEE Mariensztat C-2. Cut off from the rest of the Old Town by

National holidays

the intersecting Trasa W-Z, the Mariensztat area was rebuilt after the war using a totally different street plan. When it was unveiled in 1948 it became the first housing complex to be completed in post-war Warsaw. Lying between ul. Bednarska and ul. Dobra, the picturesque neighbourhood is full of small parks and winding streets and provides a leafy retreat from the crowds of Old Town. In previous centuries Mariensztat was notorious for its bordellos and bare-knuckle boxing matches, today it ranks as one of Warsaw’s most engaging districts.

Pawiak Prison A-2, ul. Dzielna 24/26, tel. 022 831 92 89, www. muzeumniepodleglosci.art.pl. Built in th e 1830s to ser ve as a Tsarist prison, Pawiak came to the fore during WWII when it slipped into the hands of the Gestapo. During the Nazi occupation it became the largest political prison in Poland and saw over 100,000 inmates pass through its gates. O f t hi s numb er, over 37,000 were executed within the grounds, while a further 60,000 were transported to extermination camps. Subterranean cells designed to house three people were often crammed with anything up to 18 prisoners. Dynamited during the German retreat, Pawiak has been restored as a memorial to all those who suffered inside, and now houses haunting photo displays, prisoners belongings and reconstructed cells. A metal tree stands outside the gates bedecked with obituary notices dating from 1944. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Wed 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free.

Royal Castle (Zamek Królewski) B-2, pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. 022 657 21 70, www.zamek-krolewski.com.pl. More a palace than a castle, this building is the pride of Warsaw, reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the furniture was donated by now deceased commie buddies such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money for rebuilding came from generous donations from exiled Poles. Dating back to the 14th century, the castle had been the residence of Polish kings, then of the president and then the seat of parliament. The prescribed tour will take you through the Kings’ apartments and chambers, heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish moments. Maps on the wall reflect Poland’s greatest days, when it stretched from the Baltic to the Black Sea. Some of the halls are reputed to be intermittently haunted by a ‘white lady.’ According to legend her appearance signals imminent disaster. The nearby chapel boasts an urn containing the heart of Polish hero and freedom fighter, Tadeusz Koścuiszko. Next on the tour, the Houses of Parliament. Last but not least, the opulent Great Assembly Hall has so much gold stuck to the walls, it’s hard to resist the temptation to scratch some off - just a bit, they wouldn’t notice. Behave or get accosted by vigilant wardens and enjoy the views across the river to the Praga district instead. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 18/12zł, Sun free. Guides 85zł. The Citadel ul. Skazańców 25, tel. 022 839 12 68,

Powązki Catholic Cemetery D-1, ul. Powązkowska 14, tel. 022 633 21 40. Warsaw’s biggest, oldest and most beautiful cemetery. Famous corpses include the poet Leopold Staff, aviators Żwirko and Wigura, and Nobel prize winner Władysław Reymont. It also contains the ‘grave’ of Stefan Starzyński, the mayor of Warsaw at the time of the German invasion. His body was never recovered after he was detained by the Gestapo. Vast areas of the cemetery are taken up by Home Army soldiers killed during the Uprising. Q Open 08:00 - dusk.

Tourist information Tourist Information A/B-4, Dworzec Centralny train station, tel. 022 94 31, www.warsawtour. pl. Also in the Okęcie Airport international arrivals and Etiuda Terminal (open 08:00 - 18:00) and ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 39 (open 09:00-18:00). Accurate information, though they refuse to stock In Your Pocket on account of our gay listings. Don’t let them palm you off with cheap imitations.QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.

www.muzeumniepodleglosci.art.pl. Built in the wake of the 1830 November Insurrection, the Warsaw Citadel was commissioned by Tsar Nicholas I to serve as a fortress for the occupying Russian garrison - and as a political prison and execution ground. Housing as many as 16,000 troops, the main purpose of the citadel was to deter and quash any patriotic movement within the city. Of the 40,000 prisoners who have passed through its gates, familiar names include national hero Józef Piłsudski, communist agitator ‘Red’ Rosa Luxembourg and Feliks Dzierżyński - the monster who would progress to become head of the Russian secret police. As well as being a supreme example of 19th century fortress architecture, the 36 hectare site has several points of interest. The labyrinth of tunnels and prison cells have been well preserved and contain numerous exhibits, including paintings, prison relics and firearms. On the outside is a small arsenal of heavy-duty military equipment, including T-34 and T-54 tanks, and a Katyusha rocket launcher (a.k.a Stalin’s organ). Also of note are a Nazi bunker dating from 1940, a symbolic cemetery, and The Gate of Execution - it’s here that Polish heroes Traugutt and Dąbrowski were executed in front of a crowd of 30,000 in 1864. QOpen 09:00 - 15:30. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free.

A deeply Catholic country Poland takes its Easter celebrations more seriously than most; this is no time for the bunny. Falling this year on April 8 the visiting foreigner can expect to find most bars and restaurants closed on this and the following day, and the streets largely deserted. Many moons back housewives were forbidden from baking bread in the week leading up to Palm Sunday, and flouting this rule would allegedly lead to a poor harvest. Those caught doing so would find themselves dispatched into the nearest pond and though the Poles have lightened up since those times visitors should note that much of the period is marked by solemn adherence to tradition. The Saturday before Easter sees the natives taking baskets of food to their local church to have them blessed, while the Easter Friday is used as a time to paint eggs and bake cakes. In medieval times Saturday was a favourite day to torch anyone unfortunate enough to be identified as a witch, though nowadays the day is marked with processions and church services. Come Easter Sunday and the whole family gathers around the table to enjoy a feast of white sausage, bigos and poppy seed cake. A symbolic lamb, usually made from dough, is placed on the table to symbolize the resurrection. Now, a warning. The next day is the marvelously titled Śmingus Dyngus, a day when people are given carte blanche to drench anyone they see with water. You, as a foreigner, are not exempt from this practice, so move fast if you see someone armed with a water pistol and a grin. But while it’s never nice to have a jug of water launched on your head, it is at least a vast improvement on the past when young people would be beaten with sticks. May 1 and May 3 are also designated state holidays and seeing that this year they fall on Tuesday and Thursday respectively you can expect any Pole with any sense to worm their way out of work and take the whole week off to live the high life. The May 1 holiday was known as Labour Day during communist rule, with parades, concerts and other public gatherings to celebrate the glories and triumphs of the socialist system. In the wake of the political changes post 1989 the Polish government voted to keep this day a public holiday, only without any red flag nonsense. May 3 on the other hand has far more historical importance. It was on this day that the Polish Sejm (parliament) signed what was to become Europe’s first national constitution (and the second in the world) in Warsaw’s Royal Castle back in 1791. Introducing political equality between the bourgeoisie and the nobility it also placed the peasant class under the protection of the government, thereby guaranteeing them safety from abuse from their aristocratic masters. It was under the rule of Poland’s last king, Stanisław August Poniatowski that this happened, with him describing the act as ‘founded principally on those of England and the United States, but avoiding the faults and errors of both’. These sweeping social reforms however sparked suspicion in Poland’s neighbours, who feared the economic, patriotic and military rise of a country so long suppressed by them. On May 18, 1792, Russian troops entered Poland and by 1795 the country was carved up once more by invading powers. When the act was initially signed the day was declared a public holiday, however under the ensuing partitions it was outlawed. When Poland regained independence in 1918 it became a holiday once more, though was then outlawed first by the occupying Nazis, and then by the communists. The holiday was only restored as a public holiday in 1990 following the fall of communism.

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WHAT TO SEE

WHAT TO SEE

Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/ CSW) G-4, al. Ujazdowskie 6, tel. 022 628 12 71 exp.108, www.csw.art.pl. Completed in a baroque style in 1730, Ujazdowski was gutted by fire during WWII. Though the original walls and foundations remained structurally sound the communist authorities decided to tear down the shell of the building with the intention of building a military theatre on the site. Common sense prevailed and the 1970s saw Ujazdowski rebuilt following its original style. Used as a military hospital in the years leading up to the war, there are now three large exhibition halls dedicated to showcasing the very best of contemporary art inside the wonderful Ujazdowski Castle; find a wild mix of the good, the bad and the ugly, featuring the work of Poland’s leading contemporary artists. Worthy and undoubtedly necessary, the gallery also houses a very good bookshop and a café. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Fri 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/6zł, Thu free.

View Tower (St Anne’s Church) B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68, tel. 022 828 31 01. Inch your way up the spirals stairs and you’ll be rewarded with some great panoramic views of town. On one side you’ll be able to admire Old Town and on the other, a skyline dominated by cranes and skyscrapers. Top-drawer stuff, and much more scenic than the view from the Palace of Culture. Q Only open in good weather. Admission 3/2zł.

Churches Holy Cross Church C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, tel. 022 826 89 10. Completed in 1696 after the original church that stood here was destroyed during the Swedish Deluge of the 1650s, the vast and astonishing Baroque Holy Cross Church is a feast for the eyes, heart and soul. Brimming with spectacular golden altars, the church was like so many in Warsaw devastated during WWII. Painstakingly rebuilt at the end of the war, among the building’s many outstanding features most famous is the fact that it’s the final resting place of Chopin’s heart (the rest of him being in Paris’ famous Père Lachaise cemetery).

Church of St. Hyacinth (Kościół św. Jacka) B-1, ul. Freta 8/10. This nice little Baroque church was built for the Dominicans between 1603 and 1639 by the architect Joannes Italus. Of particular interest inside the predominantly white interior is the Chapel of St. Dominic. Paid for by the Kotowski family and designed by Poland’s greatest late-17th-century architect, Tylman van Gameren, the chapel was one of the few parts of the church to survive the war. During the Warsaw Uprising the church was used as a hospital and was almost completely destroyed in 1944. Its current form dates from 1959.

Jesuit Church & Crypt B-2, ul. Świętojańska 10. Built at the behest of King Zygmunt III Waza’s confessor, Piotr Skarga, this lovely little Renaissance church was built between 1609 and 1626 for the city’s Jesuit community. Having had something of a varied and colourful history to say the least, it suffered at the hands of the Swedes in the latter half of the 17th century, who looted it of its entire contents, and even spent time as a storehouse during the Partitions. Also known as the Holy Mother of Grace Church after the city’s patron saint, the church was returned to the Jesuits at the end of WWI only to be destroyed by the Germans in 1944. Rebuilt between 1948 and 1957, of the few remaining original parts of the interior, of particular interest is the 17th-century picture of the Holy Mother herself. The crypt, which is entered through the bookshop to the left of the church, contains the remains of Prince Karol Ferdynand Waza and Maciej Kazimierz Sarbiewski (1595-1640), the Jesuit priest, poet and court preacher to King Władysław IV.

Warsaw In Your Pocket

St. Casimir’s Church (Kościół Sakramentek) B-1,

Jan Kiliński

Rynek Nowego Miasta, tel. 022 635 71 13. Founded by Mary Sobieski, wife of King Jan III Sobieski, to commemorate her husband’s victory over the Turkish army at the Gates of Vienna. The baroque-style church was designed by Tylman van Gameren and was completed in 1692. In 1944 it served as a Polish field hospital, and received a direct hit from a German bomb, killing more than 1,000 civilians, priests, nuns and soldiers who were sheltering inside. Today it has been fully restored and has a charred wooden cross as tribute to those who died.

C-1, ul. Podwale. A huge monument honouring Jan Kiliński, a Warsaw cobbler wh o b e cam e t h e unlikely hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Despite being wounded twice, Kiliński and his troop of peasants captured the Russian Ambassador’s Warsaw residence; an action that ultimately led to his imprisonment in St. Petersburg. Said to embody the Polish virtues of bravery and patriotism, his statue was erected in 1936 and originally located on pl. Krasińskich. In reprisal for an attack on the Copernicus Monument, Nazi troops hid Kiliński inside the vaults of the National Museum. Within days, boy scouts had daubed the museum with the graffiti ‘People of Warsaw! I am here, Jan Kiliński.’ After the war the cobbler was returned to his rightful place, before being finally relocated to ul. Podwale in 1959.

St. John’s Cathedral B-2, ul. Świetojańska 8, tel. 022

Military Cathedral B-2, ul. Długa 13/15. Comprising of both the St. Francis of Assisi Church and monastery and built between 1662 and 1663 by the Piarist friars, the extraordinary Military Cathedral, also known as the Church of Our Lady Queen of the Polish Crown, is the capital’s main garrison church. Having spent time as an Orthodox Church, prison, orphanage and a depot for German soldiers during WWI, the church was reconstructed based on original 17th-century drawings after independence in 1918 and became the seat of the field bishop of the Polish Army. Again rebuilt after its destruction during WWII, the church is now decorated with a peculiar mix of religious and military artefacts, including a number of large oil paintings depicting the most well known of Poland’s battles and uprisings.

St. Alexander’s Church C-4, pl. Trzech Krzyży, ul. Książęca 21. Modelled on the Roman Pantheon, this church boasts a sculpture of Christ that dates from the 18th century. It was here that Allied secret agents met during WWII. The church’s lower level is used for services for deaf mutes. Father Jakub Falkowski, parish priest of St. Alexander’s, founded the nearby Institute of Deaf Mutes and the Blind.

St. Anne’s Church B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68, tel. 022 826 99 77. St Anne’s survived the war with a few token scratches and a collapsed roof, but what the Nazis failed to destroy was very nearly demolished by a team of incompetent builders - by 1949 the whole church threatened to come crashing to the ground. The thoughtless construction of the nearby Trasa W-Z tunnel had led to several landslides, resulting in huge cracks appearing in the floor of the church. It took a team of 400 people two weeks of tireless work to stabilise the undersoil and shore up the foundations. Intriguingly, this wasn’t the first time St Anne’s had survived vicious conflict to find disaster around the corner. It escaped destruction during the war with Sweden (1650-1655) only to be gutted by fire two years later, apparently the victim of an arson attack. The classicist façade dates from 1788 and is the design of the royal architect, Piot Aigner. The interior holds even more classicist and rococo details. The view tower is one of the best in Warsaw. QOpen 08:00 - 18:30.

St. Benno’s Church (Kościół św. Benona) ul. Piesza 1, tel. 022 635 70 65. Benno’s has a wacky history. King Sigismund III was devotee of St. Benno and invited peer priests from Bavaria to Warsaw in the 17th century. Their main aim was to support Germans living outside their home country. Ironically, in 1944, the chapel was blown to smithereens by you-know-who. Rebuilt by the Poles in 1958, it now has an interesting interior dating from 1977.

831 02 89. Originally built in the 14th century, Warsaw’s oldest house of worship is steeped in history. The last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, was crowned and buried here, and in 1791 he also declared the Constitution of May 3 inside the building. The crypt holds the bodies of Henryk Sienkiewicz (writer), Gabriel Narutowicz (Poland’s first president), as well as various Mazovian knights. Other interesting details to look for include the covered walkway that links the Cathedral with the Royal Castle. It was added in 1620 as a security measure following a failed assassination attempt on King Sigismund III. As with most major landmarks, it was the scene of heavy fighting during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising and was subsequently left in a heap of ruins. Rebuilt in pseudo-gothic style, the interior today boasts the gothic artworks of Wit Stwosz. The 18th century bell that was destroyed in 1944 has since been recovered and glued together, and can now be found in the centre of ul. Kanonia. On the external wall by the main entrance are fragments of a Goliath - a remote-controlled tank used by the German army. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 15:00-17:30, Sun 15:00 - 17:30.

Monuments

King Sigismund’s Column B-2, pl. Zamkowy. Built in honour of the man who made Warsaw the capital of Poland, the column was erected back in 1664 and stands twenty two metres high. During the war the column collapsed under bombardment and the original now lies close to the Royal Castle (and is considered lucky to touch). The figure of Sigismund survived and the new column was proudly re-erected in 1949.

Adam Mickiewicz B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 5. Patriot, poet and the man who inspired Romanticism in Poland, Mickiewicz stands out as Poland’s greatest literary figure - as well as a figure of hope during a bleak age of Russian oppression. His defining masterpiece, Pan Tadeusz, is a beautifully written epic portraying Polish society in the 19th century. His statue dominates ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, and traces of bullet holes dating from WWII are still visible on the monument.

Charles de Gaulle C-4, Rondo de Gaulle’a. Charles de Gaulle is the subject of Warsaw’s newest monument. Striding away from what was once the Commie party HQ, the monument is a gift from the French government. A resident of Warsaw in the 1920s, de Gaulle is a bit of a hero in these parts for the role he played in The Battle of Warsaw in 1920. With Europe in turmoil following the aftermath of WWI the Red Army launched a huge military strike, aimed at enslaving the rest of Europe. The Bolsheviks expected an easy march to Paris, but the Poles has other ideas. With the Red Army just 23km from Warsaw Marshal Piłsudski launched a deft action to split the Bolshevik forces in two and encircle them. The battle raged from August 13-August 25, 1920, with the Poles claiming a historic victory in what Woodrow Wilson went on to describe as the ‘seventh most important battle in history’. The Bolshevik forces were decimated, and Europe saved. De Gaulle fought with distinction and was awarded the highest military honour in the country, the Virtuti Militari.

www.inyourpocket.com

Monte Cassino Monument A-2, ul. Długa 52. The Battle of Monte Cassino was actually a series of four intense and sometimes controversial battles that took place between January 20 and May 18, 1944, culminating at a 1,300-year-old Benedictine monastery on the top of the 1,100 metre Monte Cassino in southern Italy. After the successful Allied landings in Italy in September 1943 a route was needed from the Allied position north of Naples to Rome, and the only way through was via the Liri Valley. Blocking the valley was a mass of German-occupied hills around the town of Cassino. Involving British, US, French, North African, New Zealand, Ghurkha and Polish troops, fierce battles raged against the Germans on a slow and brutal advance towards the monastery, whose eventual capture would give the Allied forces the access they needed to open the road to Rome. At a cost of over 25,000 lives including the deaths by heavy allied bombing on February 15 of a number of Italian civilians who were taking refuge in the monastery, the final battle ended on the morning of May 18 when a reconnaissance group of soldiers from the Polish 12th Podolian Uhlans Regiment finally reached what was by then an empty and completely devastated monastery. The Battle of Monte Cassino paved the way for the Allied advance on Rome, which fell on June 4, 1944, two days before the Normandy invasion, and is one of Poland’s proudest military achievements. On May 18, 1999, exactly 55 years after the event, an 8.5-metre monument designed by the Polish sculptor Gustaw Zemła was unveiled in a small park by just north of the (A-2) Archaeological Museum. Resembling the outline of Italy with a number of eerie, battle-related elements built into it, the monument also features a pair of wings, supposedly representing Nike and the Polish Hussars.

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WHAT TO SEE Lost Warsaw Long term residents of Mokotów will have no trouble remembering the Supersam supermarket that once stood at the top of (G-5) ul. Puławska. For those struggling to recall, it looked like Warsaw train station from the outside, and was about just as sexy from the inside. Yet when it opened on June 6th, 1962 it was hailed as an architectural masterpiece, even winning an honorary mention at the Sao Paolo Biennale in 1965. Designed by Poland’s leading architects of the day (including Jerzy Hryniewiecki, the brains behind ‘the Russian stadium’ in Praga), the innovative design was a major engineering project, combining lots of steel, glass and aluminium sun screens. It became the first self-service supermarket in Poland (the name Sam refers to the Polish word ‘yourself’, as in do-it-yourself) and plans were touted for a nationwide chain of Super and Megasam’s. The grand opening, along with rumours that fresh lemons were on sale, caused such a stampede that the glass doors were broken by the mob that had gathered outside. With interiors that included mosaics and abstract murals it was to become a piece of Warsaw’s post war history, though by the 21st century had become a very real death trap with leaks, cracks and a corroded roof that threatened to cave in at any moment. It was finally closed on April 10, 2006, and in spite of a city wide campaign to make it a listed building the bulldozers finally moved in last December. But that’s done little to deter the Supersam fans, and plans are already afoot to rebuild it next to al. Lotników using materials recovered from the rubble.

WHAT TO SEE Nicholas Copernicus C3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście. The founder of modern astronomy. A sheltered academic, he made his observations a century before th e inven tion of t h e tel e s c op e and without help or guidance. His book De Revolu tionibus (1530) posited that the earth rotated on its axis once a day, travelled around the sun once a year, and that man’s place in the cosmos was peripheral. This may seem obvious today, but it was an utterly radical idea at the time. Although astronomers who propagated his ideas were burnt at the stake and the Catholic church placed De Revolutionibus on its list of banned books (as late as 1835), there was no turning back progress. The modern cosmological view - that our galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is this man’s legacy. The statue itself was built in 1830 and has seen its fair share of adventure. During WWII the Nazi’s placed a bronze plaque insinuating that the great man was in fact - gasp - a German. In 1942, a boy scout called Alek Dawidowski, ducked the guards and removed the plaque. Boiling with fury, the Nazis removed the statue, hid it in Silesia and dynamited a few other surrounding monuments for good measure. The statue was recovered in the years following the war, while Dawidowski has entered Polish folklore as a result of his bravery.

Syrena The mermaid is a symbol of Warsaw. Legend has it Prince Kazimierz got hopelessly lost while on a hunting expedition in the area that is now Warsaw. In a stroke of luck a mermaid appeared and guided the hapless prince to safety by firing burning arrows. The mermaid has remained an icon and statues of her can be found in (C-1), Old Town Square, (D-2), Świętokrzyski Bridge and on (C-2/3), ul. Karowa. Tomb of the Unknown Soldier B-3, pl. Piłsudskiego.

Tours Mazurkas Travel B-1, ul. Długa 8/14, tel. 022 389 41 82, www.mazurkas.com.pl. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Polish Landscape D/E-1, ul. Akademicka 3, tel. 022 824 39 11, www.polish-landscape.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Trakt B-3, ul. Kredytowa 6, tel. 022 827 80 69, www.trakt.com.pl. Warsaw’s only specialized tour guide agency. Tours are avilable in over 20 languages - including sign language - and cover all the major tourist sights in Warsaw, including Łazienki and Wilanów palaces, and the parliament building. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Warsaw City Tours B-3, ul. Marszałkowska 140, tel. 022 826 71 00, www.lrc.com.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Warsaw In Your Pocket

The only surviving part of the destroyed Saxon Palace. The palace was constructed during the 17th century though the tomb was not added to the complex until 1925. Eerily, the tomb was the only part of the structure to survive being dynamited by the Nazis. The ashes of unknown soldiers from WWII have been fittingly added.

To those deported and murdered in the East E-1, intersection of Bonifraterska, Andersa and Muranowska. Dating from 1995, and designed by Maksymilian Biskupski, this monument remembers the victims of Soviet aggression and all those deported to the wastes of Siberia.

Museums Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature B-1, Rynek Starego Miasta 20, tel. 022 831 76 91, www. muzeumliteratury.pl. Find out about the smart Alec who inspired Romanticism in Poland. As well as having a number of manuscripts and historical artefacts connected with Mickiewicz, the museum also has exhibits connected with other leading Polish writers. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00, Wed, Thu 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat. Admission 5/4zł, Sun free for permanent exhibit only.

Arsenał - Archeological Muzeum A-2, ul. Długa 52, tel. 022 831 32 21, www.pma.pl. Housed inside the city’s former Royal Arsenal, this somewhat infuriating museum was opened in 1923 and looks like it hasn’t been touched since. Tracing the history of the region through the use of some nice recreations of early dwellings and the usual skeletons and pots, the two floors that make up the museum do, it must be said, possess one of two rather good things to see. The problem is that everything is in Polish only, meaning that for example the gorgeous collection of architectural and religious pieces on the upper floor is rendered meaningless beyond its aesthetic value, which for a museum such as this in a capital city such as this is unforgivable. The entrance incidentally is tucked away conveniently on the far (northern) side of the building. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Admission 8/4zł, Sun free.

made during the post-war reconstruction of the Old Town and a nice tribute to the Solidarity movement, the Warsaw History Museum does an excellent job at cataloguing the life and times of the city. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 15:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:30, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 16:30. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3zł, Sun free.

Katyń Museum ul. Powsińska 13 (Fort Sadyba), tel. 022 842 66 11, www.muzeumwp.pl. This museum documents the shocking events of 1940 when around 20,000 Polish officers were executed by their Soviet captors. The museum has a host of objects, documents and personal effects that have been recovered from the site near Smolensk, Russia. There is also a display of a variety of army equipment such as tanks and heavy artillery. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 2-4zł.

Car Museum (Muzeum Motoryzacji i Techniki) ul.

Marie Curie Museum

Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), tel. 022 758 50 67, www. muzeum-motoryzacji.com.pl. The biggest car museum in Poland is home to vehicles owned by Presley and Monroe, as well as limousines once used by villains like Stalin, Beria and the Nazi hierarchy. The collection also includes tanks, rickshaws, motorcycles and a tractor dating from 1895. Certain cars can be hired for special occasions. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Admission 8/5zł, children under 7 free.

B-1, ul. Freta 16, tel. 022 831 80 92, http://muzeum. if.pw.edu.pl. Born Maria Skłodowska on November 7, 1867, and better known to the world as Marie Curie, this small museum inside the building she was born in contains a charming homage to the life and work of the Nobel Prize-winning physicist. Located in just two small rooms, artefacts include many personal effects such as original letters and one of Curie’s black dresses as well as a small collection of scientific instruments and a particularly peculiar model of a nuclear power plant. The lady who gave the world so much, including the chemical element polonium, named after the country of her birth, died in Savoy, France, on July 4, 1934, the victim of leukaemia, which she is believed to have contracted during her many years of dangerous research. QOpen 09:30 - 16:00, Tue 08:30 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/3zł, with film in English 10zł.

Ethnographic Museum B-3, ul. Kredytowa 1, tel. 022 827 76 41, www.pme.art.pl. The only museum that contains all the different national dresses of Poland. Actually more fascinating than it perhaps sounds. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Wed 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Closed every 1st weekend of the month. Admission 8/4zł. Wed free. Firemen’s Museum A-3, ul. Chłodna 3, tel. 022 620

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98 27. The first organised fire brigade began operations in Warsaw in 1836, and this fabulous little museum records its intriguing and often disturbing history. Featuring several themed rooms, exhibits include medals, helmets, a chilling collection of ordinary household items destroyed by fire, fire engines galore and numerous accounts of bravery. Tricky to find, the museum is also somewhat confusingly locked during opening times. To get in, press the bottom, unmarked bell and wait. Brochures featuring the history of Warsaw’s firemen in English are available for free inside the museum. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

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Fryderyk Chopin Museum C-3, ul. Okólnik 1, tel. 022 827 54 73, www.nifc.pl. Over four thousand Chopin artefacts including piles of letters, exercise books, his gold watch and the last piano he ever played. Opened in 1953, the museum is also home to an award that a 14 year old Chopin received for good behaviour at school. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł, Wed free.

Historical Museum of Warsaw B-1, Rynek Starego Miasta 42, tel. 022 635 16 25, www.mhw.pl. With over 60 rooms packed with scores of fascinating exhibits, Warsaw’s amazing History Museum deserves not only a visit but a long one at that. Charting the many ups and downs of the city since its beginnings, this maze-like monstrosity features a galaxy of delights including the prerequisite broken pots, fragments of old clothing, a reconstructed 17th-century printing house, musical instruments and an exquisitely over the top Gothic wardrobe. Via the plaque put onto Copernicus’ statue by the Germans during WWII through a display of finds

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WHAT TO SEE Museum of Asia and Pacific H-3, ul. Solec 24, tel. 022 629 67 24, www.muzeumazji.pl. Not the sort of museum you’d expect to find in the middle of Poland. Nevertheless it’s a fascinating place full of art, swords and religious artefacts. Other locations: ul. Freta 5, tel. 022 635 28 11, open 13:00 - 19:00, Wed & Thu 11:00 - 17:00, closed Mon; ul. Nowogrodzka 18a, tel. 022 629 24 41, open 13:00 - 19:00, Tue & Thu 12:00 - 18:00, closed Sat & Sun. Q Admission 5/3zł, Thu free. Museum of Independence (Muzeum Niepodległości) F-2, al. Solidarności 62, tel. 022 826 90 91, www.muzeum.zk.pl. Rather ironically, the museum that charts Poland’s struggle for freedom was home to the Lenin Museum during communist rule. Celebrating Polish patriotism, the museum covers all the key dates of Polish history, including the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising, the 19th century insurrections, Piłsudski’s return to Poland, WWII and the rise of Solidarity. Among the 48,000 exhibits are objects recovered from WWII concentration camps, and some wonderful displays of Socialist Realist artwork. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/3zł. Sun free.

Museum of Technology (Muzeum Techniki) B-4, pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), tel. 022 656 67 47, www.muzeumtechniki.waw.pl. A vast collection dedicated to the history of everything technological inside the equally enormous Palace of Culture & Science, the only thing missing here is a map. Truly huge, and clearly laid out by somebody with a sadistic sense of humour, the scores of rooms scattered willy nilly and organised with what appears to be a contemptuous disregard for reason and logic, highlights include a superbly stylish electric car for children made in France in 1955, a cavalcade of impossible-looking motorbikes and aeroplanes, a room packed with 19th-century musical boxes, a highly amusing 1951 MIG jet flight simulator and a small exhibition celebrating space exploration that could do with some serious updating. Decorated with lace curtains and staffed by an army of sinister-looking old ladies, you won’t learn a thing no matter how hard you try, but it’s a strangely rewarding experience that really has to be seen to be believed. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4zł. National Museum (Muzeum Narodowe) C-4, al. Jerozolimskie 3, tel. 022 621 10 31, www.mnw.art.pl. Located inside a huge and decidedly bizarre inter-war building, Warsaw’s National Museum is a must for anyone visiting the city. Dating from 1862 and operating under its current name since 1916, among the huge array of permanent exhibitions, highlights include some wonderful pieces from world antiquity, a wealth of delightful 15th-century Dutch and Flemish paintings and several galleries of Polish art from the 16th century onwards, including some of the best work by the country’s leading early 20th-century artists such as Witkiewicz, Makowski and Szczepkowski. Also on display are some fine examples of furniture and decorative arts inside the Gallery of Polish Decorative Art. Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 17/10zł for entire museum; 12/7zł for permanent exhibit only. Sat free for permament exibition only.

Polish Army Museum (Muzeum Wojska Polskiego) C-4, al. Jerozolimskie 3, tel. 022 629 52 71, www. muzeumwp.pl. The chronological history of the Polish army is presented in a series of gloomy rooms. Suits of armour, crossbows, muskets, medals and paintings pack this museum, though the absence of English-language explanations mean you’ll learn next to nothing. The room at the end is

Warsaw In Your Pocket

WHAT TO SEE dedicated to Poland’s role in WWII, with specific emphasis on the Warsaw Uprising. Curiously, the best part of the museum is actually free of charge: the outdoor collection of 20th century weaponry includes an array of tanks, missiles, aircraft and rocket launchers. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Wed 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 8/4zł, groups up to 10 people 3zł per person, Sat free. Guides 50zł.

Poster Museum ul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16, tel. 022 842 48 48, www.postermuseum.pl. Housed inside Wilanów Palace’s former stables, Warsaw’s exemplary Poster Museum receives vast amounts of plaudits, which, if you judge the two large halls full of wonderful posters from all over the world on that merit alone, it truly deserves. But why the curators have chosen to put all the exhibits behind glass and light everything so carelessly remains a mystery. Thankfully, many of the best examples have been reproduced into postcards that can be bought from the museum shop. QOpen 10:00 - 15:30, Mon 12:00 - 15:30. Admission 9/5zł,

Railway Museum E-3, ul. Towarowa 1, tel. 022 620 04 80. Two large rooms full of working and static models of classic and modern trains, large train sets, a display case full of guards’ hats from all over the world, a nice display of cable car-related paraphernalia and a huge collection of old engines in all possible conditions through the door in the room on the right. Heaven if you like this kind of thing, appallingly pointless and depressing if you don’t, especially as nothing is in English. QOpen 09:30 - 15:30. Closed Mon. Admission 6/4zł, Fri free. Theatre Museum B-2, pl. Teatralny 1, tel. 022 692 07 56, www.teatrwielki.pl. Opened in 1957, this rather sad collection of posters, paintings, costumes, props and other theatrical paraphernalia claims to draw extensively from its collection of over 200,000 pieces. Essentially a room of theatrical bits and bobs that appear to have been thrown through the door, the idea is that the museum and the theatre building its located in merge into one harmonious, thespianesque experience. This is great if you’re visiting for a performance and can wander in and out of both during the interval, but try getting into the theatre from the museum at any other time and you run the risk of being herded back through the door by a rather fanatical security guard. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 7/10zł.

Parks Łazienki Park & Palace G-4, ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 022 621 62 41. The park and palace complex where half of Warsaw descends on a Sunday to take the traditional family stroll. Notable features amid the landscaped gardens include the art-deco Chopin monument (1926), the palace on the water (remodelled in 1792), an old orangery and a classicist amphitheatre loosely inspired by Herculaneum. The 74 hectare site originally served as the residence of Stansiław August Poniatowski - Poland’s last monarch. In spite of sporadic damage, much of the dynamite laid by Nazi troops failed to destroy the buildings. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Park open from dawn till dusk. Admission 12/9zł. Guides 80zł per group up to 30 people.

Kabacki Forest Found towards the south west of the city limits, the forest was the scene of Poland’s worst air crash on the May 7, 1987. A memorial stone pays tribute to the 182 people who died. The forest is also believed to be the hiding place of a warthog that escaped from Warsaw Zoo while being transported to start a new life in San Diego. Locals have named the fugitive Non Diego. Officially marked as a nature reserve since 1980 the 900 hectare park lies within easy reach of Kabaty metro stop and the area is home to owls, kestrels, deer, boar, foxes and the European Tree Frog. A popular hideout for Home Army soldiers during WWII the reserve is also home to many mass graves dating from this time.

Kampinos Forest Immediately North West of Warsaw, Kampinos is the most accessible of Poland’s national parks. Interspersed with dunes and marshland, the forest is home to 76 endangered species, and criss-crossed with hiking and horse-riding trails. The past decades have witnessed successful attempts to reintroduce beaver, elk and lynxes back to the wild. Equally famous for its association with the battle for Polish independence, Kampinos’ proximity to the capital has made it a favourite camp for partisans throughout the course of history; today mass graves dating from national uprisings in 1863 and 1944 can be visited. Pole Mokotowskie E-5. Penned in by the districts of Mokotów, Ochota and Śródmieście this park represents prime real estate, and right now much of the land is subject to sky-high bods from nasty real estate developers. Hands off we say, and not just because drinking in Pole Mokotowskie’s countless bars is one of the highlights of summer. Prior to WWII it was used as a military parade ground, and then from 1910, one of Europe’s first airports. It was here that the Polish aviators Żwirko and Wigura began many of their aerial adventures, and by 1921 passenger flights linking Warsaw with Paris (via Prague and Strasbourg) were commonplace. The opening of Okęcie Airport in 1933 sounded the death knell for the airport, and today it serves as a popular summer spot for suburbanites, as well the venue for public events such as the annual Earth Festival.

Palace of Culture B-4, pl. Defilad 1, tel. 022 656 76 00, www.pkin. pl. Dominating the city skyline, the fearsome Palace of Culture is the defining icon of the city. Looking like something you’d see in Ghostbusters, the building towers at just over 231 metres in height - making it the tallest and largest structure in Poland. Commissioned by Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet people,’ it was originally interpreted as a reminder from Moscow that Big Brother really was watching. To this day it still stirs mixed feelings from locals and architecture buffs. On April 5, 1952 Soviet representative Nikolaj Sobolev and Polish Prime Minister Józef Cyrankiewicz stamped the deal to build the monstrosity over a meeting in what is now the Belvedere restaurant. Within weeks construction had begun. Over 3,500 workers were ferried in from the Soviet states and housed in a purpose-built village in Jelonki, west Warsaw, where they were effectively cut off from the outside world. Working around the clock, it took them just three years to complete the Palace. In all 16 workers died as a result of typical communist disregard for safety practices. Designed by Soviet architect Lev Rudnyev (also responsible for the equally frightening Lomonosov University in Moscow), it is a fabulous example of socialist era architecture and also incorporates several more traditional styles (the pillars and parapets were apparently inspired by the Sukiennice in Kraków’s Old Town Square). Built using an estimated 40 million bricks and housing 3,288 rooms, the vast Palace can allegedly be seen from a distance of 30km. Originally intended to serve as the Communist party HQ, the multi-purpose building currently houses museums, restaurants, theatres, conference halls, offices etc. The Sala Kongresowa (Congress Hall) is big enough to hold 3,000 people, and it was in here in 1967 that the Rolling Stones became one of the first western bands to perform to an eastern bloc audience. According to urban legend, an army of wild cats now live in the cavernous basements, feasting on the legions of rodents who also reside within the buildings gloomy bowels. Most recently, the highest tower clock in the world has been added to the structure and visitors should pencil in a visit to the viewing platform on the 30th floor. The revamped elevators take just 20 seconds to transport you to the wind-blasted viewing level, and the panoramic views are simply dizzyingly awesome. The price of admission is on the steep side, but there’s also a few erratic interactive displays, architecture-related exhibits and a small café.QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 20/15zł; groups 10zł per person (for groups of 10 or more).

Saski F-2 Opened to the public in 1727 Saski Park ranks as one of the oldest public parks in the world, and was originally designed in a ‘French style’, before being changed to follow English aesthetics in the 19th century. Originally part of the Saski Palace complex highlights include a sundial dating from 1863, and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier; the only surviving part of the Palace. Although wrecked by Nazi miscreants in 1944 many of trees in the park survived, and it’s possible to find ones dating from a quarter of a century ago. An empire style fountain designed by Marconi in 1855 stands close to the bottom corner of the park, and other points of interest include a memorial honouring Warsaw residents killed during WWII. April - May 2007

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OLD TOWN When US General Dwight Eisenhower visited Warsaw immediately after the war he was moved to comment, “I have seen many towns destroyed, but nowhere have I been faced with such destruction.” Rebuilt from scratch following total devastation in 1944, the meticulous reconstruction of the historic centre was only completed as late as 1962. Old Town’s inclusion on UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 1980 speaks volumes for the painstaking effort involved. Unfortunately Warsaw’s rise from the ashes was only achieved at tremendous cost to other towns. Szczecin (formerly the German town of Stettin), largely untouched by the war, was coerced into demolishing many of its historic buildings in order to ‘donate’ an estimated 27 million bricks to the Warsaw rebuilding program - sadly this remains a fact largely brushed over. Yet even though most of the Old Town is little over half a century old, it is nothing short of an architectural miracle, and should be the first point on any tourists itinerary. The burgher houses that line Old Town Square (Rynek) are particularly striking, with many boasting intricate details on the façades. A 15th century town hall that occupied the centre of the square was pulled down in 1817 and has never been replaced. The favoured haunt of street artists, one Rynek act to watch for is Piotr Boł - a cagey character with a parrot and one of Europe’s last few music boxes. Just as entertaining are the mime artists who stand in frozen posture. In the past one such human statue, dressed as a monk, collapsed after a marathon drinking binge, leaving his enormous private parts exposed to all and sundry. The network of cobbled streets that lie east of the square are probably the most intriguing. A few inches wider than a doorway, the house at (B-2) ul. Kanonia 20/22 is one of the narrowest in the world. Close by is the covered walkway that was built following the failed assassination of King Sigismund III (see St. John’s Cathedral). While the King escaped unmolested, his would be killer

JEWISH WARSAW faced a rather grisly end. According to popular myth Michał Piekarski, the hapless hitman, was skinned alive, stretched using four horses and had his hands cut off before being put out of his misery courtesy of a blunt axe. The archway on (B1/2) ul. Dawna leads to a grassy bank that boasts fantastic views of the Wisła river and Praga district. Known as Gnojna Gora (Compost Hill), this small knoll was not only the town rubbish dump, but also renowned for its healing properties. This is the spot where hyper-rich deviants would come to be buried up to their necks in rubbish as a supposed cure for syphilis. Climb up ul. Kamienne Schodki to get back into the main square. Not only is this the longest stairwell in Old Town, it’s also where Napoleon allegedly stood in 1806, pensively staring eastwards as he planned his campaign against Russia. On the other side of Old Town, the area around (B-2) ul. Piekarska and ul. Rycerska was once home to a small square used for executions. Nicknamed Piekałka (Little Hell), this is where witches and vagabonds were once burned alive or beheaded. The tiny ul. Wąski Dunaj played home to Warsaw’s Jewish population back in the middle ages, while Szeroka Dunaj was home to a large fish market. Jan Kościuszko, leader of the 1794 insurrection, lived at ul. Szeroka Dunaj 5. A set of defensive walls mark the boundary of Old Town, with the crowning piece being the Barbakan - a fearsome structure built in 1548 using the designs of a Venetian architect. Today, the Barbakan serves as a bridge between the old and new parts of town, and is particularly popular with gothic teenagers drinking super-strength lager. Although walking remains the best way to explore its many corners, a miniature train also snakes around the area. Expect to pay between 12-15zł for a 30 minute trip. Alternatively opt for one of the horse carriages that wait outside the gates of the Royal Castle. Prices tend to start at around 50zł for a 20 minute ride, though feel free to bargain.

The first Jewish settlers appeared in Mazovia at around the start of the 14th century. Although pogroms were not unknown, Poland was seen by many Jews as a relative safe haven in comparison to the discrimination of the west. By the late 18th century over 9 percent of the capital’s inhabitants were Jewish. By 1939 Warsaw was home to over 350,000 Jews. The horror of WWII and the subsequent prejudice of the anti-Semite government decimated Poland’s Jewish population. Today only around 2,000 Jews live in Warsaw.

Jewish Cemetery D-1, ul. Okopowa 49/51. In spite of sporadic disrepair and neglect, this remains a beautiful and poignant place to visit. The cemetery was originally founded in 1806 and currently houses around 250,000 tombs. Amongst those buried here are Ludwik Zamenhof, inventor of the ill-fated language Esperanto. Donations for the upkeep of the cemetery can be made to the Citizens Committee for the Protection of Jewish Cemeteries and Monuments of Culture in Poland, tel. 022 827 92 21. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 13:00. Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat. Admission 4zł.

Jewish Historical Institute F-2, ul. Tłomackie 3/5, tel. 022 827 92 21, www.jhi.pl. A chilling recollection of Polish Jewry and the only institution in Poland focusing entirely on the study of the history and culture of the Polish Jews, this amazing building houses permanent and temporary exhibits relating to secular and religious Jewish life in the country from its beginnings to the annihilation of the Jews in Poland during WWII and beyond. As well as an excellent bookshop, the institute’s museum, opened in 1948, features a large interactive display in the entrance hall that allows its users to find out about Jewish life in any part of the country, the extraordinary Warsaw Ghetto 1940-1943 exhibition, religious treasures, an archive and a small cinema. Particularly poignant is the collection of photographs taken in the Warsaw Ghetto by Heinz Jost, a German innkeeper who served in the German army and whose almost snapshot-style photographs speak volumes about the place and the time. Essential visiting. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Thu 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 10/5zł. Monument to the Ghetto Heroes A-1, ul. Zamenhofa. D esigned by Natan Rappaport, the monument pays tribute to the heroes of the Ghetto Uprising of 1943. Found between (E1) ul. Anielewicza, Zamenhofa, Lewar towskiego and Karmelicka it here that the heaviest fighting took place. In an ironic quirk, the stone cladding on the monument was originally ordered from Sweden by Hitler for a victory arch.

Warsaw In Your Pocket

Nożyk Synagogue E-2, ul. Twarda 6, tel. 022 652 28 05, www.warszawa.jewish.org.pl. Built between 1898 and 1902 in a neo-Romanesque style, this was the only Warsaw synagogue to survive the ravages of war. It was fully restored between 1977 and 1983. Now open for worship. Q Open to visitors from 10:00 until sunset, Sun 13:00 until sunset. Closed Sat. Please, no visiting during prayer. Groups of more than 10 must call and reserve in advance. Admission 5zł.

Traces of the Ghetto Following the Ghetto Uprising the whole area was levelled so few traces remain. If you duck into the courtyard at (A-4, on the ul. Twarda side) ul. Sienna 55 you will see a remaining part of the ghetto wall complete with a commemorative plaque. Possibly the only street that survived the maelstrom of 1943 is the depressing ul. Próżna (B-3). The tenement houses were built between 1880 and 1900 and were once home to Warsaw’s thriving Jewish community. Once a bustling street full of traders and hardware stores it now lies forlorn and neglected; a haunting epitaph to the past.

Umschlagplatz E-1 Found on ul. Stawki (E-1), close to the intersection with ul. Dzika, Umschlagplatz is a bleak, slightly disappointing monument marking the spot where around 300,000 Jews were loaded on cattle wagons bound for Treblinka. The Nazi commandant in charge of the deportations lived directly opposite on ul. Stawki 5/7. Lying between Umschlagplatz and the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes lies the legendary monument labelled Miła 18 (note: this is not the address where you can find the monument). Essentially no more than a symbolic grassy knoll, it marks the spot from where the Ghetto Uprising was directed. April - May 2007

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PRAGA Warsaw’s eastern suburb, Praga, has long been regarded as off-limits to Western visitors. Often painted as the bastion of tower blocks and the criminal underclass, Praga lies right at the start of the Warsaw monopoly board. The area is actually enjoying a snail-like renaissance, and as such offers visitors a combination of strange sights and sounds. While it is an enjoyable and recommended daytrip, do remember that this is not Old Town; huge zoom lenses and video cameras will attract unwanted attention, quite possibly worse.

Bazar Różyckiego H-1, ul. Ząbkowska, www.br.waw.pl. Once regarded as Warsaw’s premier bazaar, the compact Bazar Różyckiego has seen its popularity wane since 1989. Black market trade once thrived under Nazi and communist governments, nowadays the historic 102-year-old market is a ghostly image of its former self. Once considered the place for cardigans, firearms and spurious goods, it’s now a mildly depressing look into working class Warsaw life. QOpen 06:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Buildings Although in a sorry state of disrepair, much of Praga survived the war. Nowadays, to walk around the bullet-scarred tenement houses found by the riverside is to immerse yourself in pre-war Praga. The oldest surviving residential building in the district can be found on ul. Targowa 50/52. Built in 1819, it once housed a Jewish elementary school and bears a Hebrew inscription dating from 1934. Be warned, the nearby ul. Brzeska is reputed to be Warsaw’s most dangerous street.

Jewish Cemetery corner of Św. Wincentego and ul. Odrowąża. Traditionally the burial ground of Warsaw’s poorer Jews, this is the oldest Jewish cemetery in the city. Founded in 1780 much of it was wrecked during the Nazi occupation, with several tombs being used as paving stones. Even more graves were destroyed following the end of the war, with hundreds of tombs ripped from the ground and piled together in huge heaps. In spite of token restoration work, much of the cemetery is little more than an abandoned jungle of weeds. A poignant epitaph to Warsaw’s history.

Kościuszkowców Monument G-1, ul. Wybrzeże Szczecińskie, Near Port Praski. A formidable monument erected in 1985 to act as a memorial for those who fought in the First Polish Infantry Division. Formed in Russia, the division attempted to cross the Wisła river several times without success, in a bid to support the 1944 Uprising.

WARSAW UPRISING Orthodox Church of St. Mary Magdalene G-1, al. Solidarności 52, tel. 022 619 84 67. Constructed between 1867 and 1869 to a design by Mikołaj Syczew, St. Mary Magdalene’s was originally built for the large congregation of Russian souls living around Jagiellońska as well as people arri ving from the East at the nearby Wileńska train station. Now belonging to the in d ep en d en t Poli sh Sco Autokephalic Orthodox Church, this stunning, five-domed building features a breathtaking golden interior and some unusually cheerful abstract designs. One of only two Orthodox churches to survive a demolition campaign in the 1920s, this rather unorthodox Orthodox church comes with its own charming, football-mad priest. QOpen 11:00 - 15:00.

Russian Market H-2, Stadion Dziesięciolecia. For details see Markets on page 85. Soviet War Memorial G-1, intersection of ul. Targowa and al. Solidarności. Dedicated to the Soviet soldiers who died during the ‘liberation’ of Warsaw. Erected in the immediate aftermath of WWII, the rusting edifice is the city’s least loved memorial and is often daubed with graffiti. The Praga location follows the science of logic - this was where the Red Army halted their advance in 1944, while Nazi troops annihilated the western parts of town.

Sts. Michael & Florian Cathedral G-1, ul. Floriańska 3. In reaction to the building of an Orthodox Church and a number of other structures on the Tsar’s orders in the latter half of the 19th century, a certain Pole by the name of Father Ignacy Dutkiewicz decided to hit back with the construction of a huge new Catholic church. Consecrated in 1901, a year before its final completion, this vast Gothic beast was blown to pieces by the Germans in September 1944 and is now almost exclusively the work of ongoing reconstruction between 1947 and 1970. Featuring a pair of steel-tipped, 75-metre steeples, the church, which includes a photograph of what remained of it after the Nazis dynamited it on the left wall as you enter, has a rather plain interior, although the vaulted ceilings are well worth a look at if you’re in the area.

Koneser Vodka Factory H-1, ul. Ząbkowska 27/31, tel. 022 619 90 21, www. wwwkoneser.pl. Located in a complex of historically-listed buildings, the Koneser Vodka Factory has been producing the spirit since 1897. The distillery spawns over 16 million bottles per year, and aside from producing their own brands, Koneser also holds contracts to produce distinguished vodkas like Finlandia and Sobieski. Employing over 150 people, the factory uses specially filtered water from a spring 270 metres under the city to distill its vodka. Official tours are now available from Monday to Friday from 08:00 to 13:00 by prior arrangement. Walking amongst the conveyor belts and towering vats of vodka provides a fascinating insight into the laborious process that goes into distilling the devilish sauce. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Reservations three days in advance. Admission 25zł per person, 30zł with vodka sampling. After working hours additional fee of 700zł regardless of size of group.

Warsaw In Your Pocket

Warsaw Zoo G-1, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3 (Miejski Ogród Zoologiczny w Warszawie), tel. 022 619 40 41, www. zoo.waw.pl. Opened in 1928, Warsaw Zoo covers an area of 40 hectares and attracts some 500,000 visitors each year. Three elephants, a family of seals and a lion cub were added to the current collection of reptiles, birds and tigers. Conditions have improved dramatically in recent years, though a visit here will do little to change any opinions you have on locking animals in cages. As with every major Warsaw landmark, the zoo has plenty of war stories. It was bombed at the beginning of the conflict and by 1945 all the animals had either been killed, deported to the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo director, Jan Żabiński, became something of a hero; wounded during the 1944 Uprising, Żabiński helped save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the zoo. The zoo officially re-opened in 1949. Q Open 09:00- dusk. Admission 3/6zł. Kids under 3 years for free.

By 1944, with the tide of war turning and their resources and morale seemingly in disarray, German forces had begun a strategic retreat from Warsaw. Following close contact with the Polish government in exile in London and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Poland’s wartime underground movement) launched a military strike with the aim of liberating Warsaw and installing an independent government. At 17:00, August 1, 1944, General Tadeusz Komorowski (a.k.a. Bór), signalled the order for Polish troops to launch attacks on German held positions. In spite of being disastrously ill equipped, the sheer ferocity of the attack combined with the element of surprise, caught the German forces off guard. Within days vast swathes of Warsaw had been captured by insurgents and for the first time in five years the Polish flag flew defiantly over the city. The initial success of the uprising was short lived. News of the rebellion infuriated the German high command. Himmler immediately issued orders to recapture Warsaw, and with key strategic targets such as landing strips and bridges firmly under Nazi control, it wasn’t long before reinforcements of crack German and Ukrainian military units started pouring in to crush the revolt. The beleaguered Home Army, already stretched to the limit, had no option but to hold fast and wait for help from the outside world. The Red Army, whose forces had reached the environs of the Praga side of Warsaw, promptly halted their steady advance and essentially did nothing while the battle for Warsaw raged on the other side of the Wisła river. If the Poles thought things couldn’t get any worse then they hadn’t gambled on Stalin sticking his oar in. In a move that effectively sealed the fate of the uprising, Uncle Joe refused to grant permission for the Western Allies to use Soviet air fields in a bid to relieve the Home Army. Nazi forces continued to pound the Polish forces and the battle descended into a street for street, hand to hand bloodbath. Sewers and other escape routes were gassed, civilians butchered, children used as human shields, prisoners of war murdered. Mid-September saw numerous attempts by other Polish battalions to smash through German lines that had by now encircled the Home Army into small pockets of resistance. Token victories failed to compensate for the catastrophic casualty list that was now mounting. With the advent of October the Poles found themselves in an increasingly impossible situation. On October 2, 1944, with no hope in sight, General Komorowski signed a capitulation document. The battle had cost the lives of over 20,000 troops and some 150,000 civilians. With the uprising defeated, Hitler ordered all remaining civilians to be expelled and surviving buildings to be numbered in their order of importance to Polish culture then systematically dynamited.

Execution Sites Warsaw has over 300 plaques dotted around the city that commemorate Nazi execution sites. They display the date and usually the number of people who were killed by German hit squads. Monument to the Warsaw Uprising B-2, pl. Krasińskich. In the decades following the war the communist authorities refused to acknowledge the significance of the Warsaw Uprising. It was only with the regime close to collapse, as well as much lobbying from veterans and Solidarity, that a monument was finally unveiled. Built in 1989 on the site of the former national theatre, Wincent Kućma’s masterpiece depicts a group of insurgents in battle and another group fleeing into the sewers. It was here that German president, Roman Herzog, apologized on the 50th anniversary of the uprising for German atrocities committed against the Polish nation. The Little Insurgent (Małego Powstańca) B-2, ul. Podwale. Warsaw’s most poignant memorial commemorates the hundreds of children who were killed during the Uprising. Many were used as messengers, others fought in the ranks. The monument itself depicts Antek Rozpylacz - a boy-soldier killed nearby.

Warsaw remains Between 1939 and 1944 over 84 percent of Warsaw was completely destroyed, with the city centre bearing the brunt of the damage. In spite of the Herculean rebuilding work that has since taken place, the odd bullet scarred wall or pre-war tenements can still be found. (B-2) ul. Bielańska 10 - Built in 1907 the mammoth building originally functioned as the National Bank of Russia, before being turned into the Polish state treasury in 1917. Smashed by German bombs, its decaying hulk now lies fenced off from the public. Plans to turn the building into an Uprising museum have repeatedly stalled. (A-3) ul. Waliców - Located within the bounds of the Jewish ghetto, the shell pocked walls were actually damaged during the intense fighting of 1944. The dark, brooding courtyards of several of the tenement buildings still carry an ominous air. (F-4) ul. Wilcza - The facades of a few buildings between ul. Poznańska and ul. Koszykowa remain sprayed with bullets. In particular keep an eye open for no. 9a, 72 and 73. (B-3) Prudential Insurance building - Now the derelict Hotel Warszawa, when the tower was erected in the 1930s it was the tallest building in Warsaw. During the uprising it was a primary target for the Home Army and captured on the first day of battle. Although it was gutted by German shelling its steel skeleton refused to topple. Praga – The neglected Praga district holds whole streets seemingly left as they were. Visitors should look out for ul. Okrzei (G-1), and ul. Zamojskiego (H-1). Walking around at night is not advisable. Pill box - Lying between al. Niepodleglosci and ul. Nowowiejska (F-4) those with eagle eyes will spot a tiny bunker built at the tail end of the war. Craftily hidden by advertising hoardings, it’s quite literally the only German bunker you’ll find in the city.

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FURTHER READING Uprising Museum Warsaw Uprising Museum (Muzeum Powstania Warszawskiego) D-3, ul. Przyokopowa 28, tel. 022 539 79 33, www.1944.pl. A stunning museum, opened in 2004, and revamped in early 2005, and one which we rate as the best in Poland. Packed with interactive displays, photographs, video footage and miscellaneous displays this is guaranteed to leave a deep mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tramway power station the 2,000m2 space is split in three levels and takes leads visitors through the complete story of the uprising. Life under Nazi rule is covered through a series of slides, and a section of the ground floor is dedicated to the children who served as both messengers and soldiers. The rattle of machine guns, Stukka dive bombers and heart beats are played over the speakers, adding to the ominous atmosphere. Different halls focus on the many aspects of the Uprising; a replica of an insurgents radio station has been built, while other sections document the massacre in Wola, allied airdrops and the role of medical units. On the mezzanine level a cinema screen plays a ten minute film detailing the first month of the battle, after which the museums route takes visitors through a mock sewer. The final section features a section devoted to the Soviet creation of ‘Lublin Poland’, a hall of remembrance for the fallen and a display entitled ‘Death of the City’; a haunting epitath to the destruction of Warsaw in which silent films project before and after shots of city landmarks. The wall of the small park outside is marked with the names of 4,000 casualties, and is also home to occasional photographic exhibitions. New additions to this fantastic space include a replica of B24 Liberator plane, a 110-seat cinema and a 32 metre tall viewing tower. Although multi-lingual tour guides are available, the translations on most of the museums displays are clear enough to render a guide unnecessary and there’s even a creche for the kids. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Thu 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 4/2zł, groups 1zł, Sun free. Guides for groups of 12-20 people 15zł, individual tours 50zł.

Rising ’44 by Norman Davies It may have been a battle that determined Poland’s destiny, but to date the Warsaw Uprising has received little in the way of recognition from the Western world – so much so that it repeatedly finds itself confused with the 1943 Ghetto Uprising; most famously by German Chancellor Herzog in 1994, and most recently by French newspaper Le Figaro. Norman Davies, arguably the world’s number one authority on Polish history, attempts to redress the balance with this brick of a book. To do so he breaks with the linear format favoured by the majority of historical authors. Instead he chooses to split his work into several clear sections, thereby allowing the reader to dive in and out of chapters of particular interest. Text is further interspersed with what Davies describes as capsules: sub-chapters comprising of personal recollections; from the blurry memories of a five-year-old child, to the diary entries of a German soldier caught. Surprisingly though, the main focus of the book is not the actual Uprising, rather the prelude and the aftermath. While the first 240 pages of the paperback version are dedicated to events prior to the outbreak of combat, the first day of hostilities are deemed worthy of only a page. Madness. Davies has also faced criticism for his decision to Anglicize all Polish names. For foreigners familiar with Poland this can be deeply frustrating. Rising ’44 lacks the pace and the fizz of Antony Beevor’s excellent works on Stalingrad and Berlin, and it has a tendency to become bogged down in the impossibly complicated politics of the day, making it a demanding read. Fluidity is disrupted by the constant need to cross-reference the core text with the stack of notes translations at the back; have plenty of bookmarks to hand. Furthermore, readers will be left with plenty of unanswered questions. The fate of German combatants is largely ignored, while the wholesale destruction of Warsaw is covered in just fleeting detail. To his credit Davies is a superb historian, and his habit of unearthing fantastic detail saves interest from flagging. For instance, we learn that the Polish Home Army contained a battalion of deaf and dumb troops, of the existence of a concentration camp inside the city walls, and there is a superb section on life in occupied Warsaw. The fate of the insurgents makes particularly interesting reading, and Davies manages to track veterans from as far afield as Mexico and Australia. We learn of one who went on to become a famous anthropologist in the wilds of the Andes, and of an amputee who became a world legless ski champion. The days of statesponsored terror are described in vivid detail, along with the Soviet show trials and subsequent imprisonment of many of the Uprising’s leaders. In one anecdote the author reveals how one veteran was spied on by the security services for twenty five years following the Uprising. State files opened in 1990 show that the last report on him was written during his funeral; the informant was his wife. Davies does not shirk from the facts, and much of the book will make uncomfortable reading for Britons. The author is scathing, and deservedly so, towards the allied powers, responsible for double-crossing Poland and pandering to Stalin’s whims. Rising ‘44 is at times a laborious read, but ultimately a rewarding one. This is not a book specifically about the war, rather a keen exploration of the political intrigues between Whitehall and the Kremlin. Davies warns in his introduction that this is not a definitive account of the Uprising, and with so many questions left unanswered we are inclined to agree with him. In Your Pocket verdict: 7/10

Warsaw In Your Pocket

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Markets Russian Market H-2, Stadion Dziesięciolecia. See Saska Kępa, page 8.

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Bazar Różyckiego H-1, ul. Ząbkowska. Black market

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trade once thrived under Nazi and communist governments, nowadays the historic 102-year-old market is a ghostly image of its former self. Once considered the place for cardigans, firearms and spurious goods, it’s now a mildly depressing look into working class Warsaw life. Open from 09:15, closed on Sunday.

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Bazar na Kole D-2, ul. Obozowa 99. Quality flea market held each weekend from dawn till 14:00. Attracting buyers and sellers from across the country this is exactly the place if you’ve ever wanted to own a Prussian helmet or set of palace doors from India (yours for 16,000zł). The Russian market, with it’s plastic shoes and Bulgarian DVDs pales in comparison. What else can you find? We’ve spotted pre-war posters advertising Polish toothpaste, early 19th century postcards, prewar bathroom fixtures and grandfather clocks. The traders themselves are a set of curious characters, and watching these veterans at work is one reason alone to visit. While early morning is the best time to snap up the rare finds, the closing Sunday at 13:00 is the time to hit to try and get the last minute bargains. The golden rule is to haggle at all times. Paying the asking price means overpaying.

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Photo market F-5, ul. Batorego 10. Open Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Admission 4zł. Discount camera equipment inside the Stodoła nightclub. Lenses, lamps, filters, negatives, etc. Highly recommended for those who take their photography seriously and know what they are looking for.

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WILANÓW The ‘Polish Versailles’ is one of the many fitting monikers applied to the splendid, late 17th-century Palace of Wilanów, 10 kilometres south of Warsaw’s centre. Essential visiting for all who come to soak up the capital’s lavish culture, Wilanów is more than just a Palace. The sprawling 45-hectare setting is full of things to do, from visiting the superb Poster Museum next door to renting a rowing boat on the Palace’s lake. If the weather’s good and you’ve got time to spare, it’s easy to spend an entire and thoroughly rewarding day here.

Getting there By bus A 30-minute bus ride from the centre of Warsaw, bus N°116 leaves from the southbound stop at (C-4) al. Ujazdowskie, going all the way to the Palace entrance. Taxi At around 35zł with a recommended company such as MPT (tel. 022 91 91), a taxi ride to Wilanów is something of a false economy, taking more or less the same time as the bus to get there. If you prefer the comfort and privacy of your own car then find ELE taxis parked around the city, including outside the (A/B-4) main train station. Bicycle The main route to Wilanów passes several interesting parks on the way, and cycling is an option. Be warned though, drivers in Warsaw have little regard for cyclists. Cycling in Warsaw is only recommended if you’re used to riding a bicycle in a large city.

Sustenance As well as a McDonald’s, the option of bringing your own picnic or running the gauntlet of the kitchen in the café next to the Palace, you may wish to sample one of the three of the following restaurants.

Kuźnia Królewska ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel. 022 842 31 71. A good range of moderately priced international and traditional Polish dishes, including veal, goose, trout, classic pork knuckle and a fabulous selection of desserts, served by nice, English-speaking waiters in bow ties. The building itself was originally a blacksmiths, and the inside is decorated with a slightly ostentatious equestrian flair. On a good day the attached terrace is a great place to sit and waste a bit of quality time over a bowl or plate of quality food. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.

WILANÓW The Palace ul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16, tel. 022 842 81 01, www.wilanow-palac.art.pl. Wilanów gets its name from the Warsaw borough in which Wilanów Palace is located. First mentioned in the 13th century as Milanów, the then tiny village changed hands several times before being bought in the 17th century by the family of Stanisław Leszczyński. Leszczyński began building a Palace here, but the project was halted by the Deluge and the subsequent capture and plundering of the region by the Swedes. In 1676 the abandoned Milanów was bought by King Jan III Sobieski, who ordered a new Palace to be built. Originally called Villa Nova (New Village), the name was soon polonised to the one it’s known by today. With numerous additions over the centuries by its subsequent aristocratic owners, the Palace, park and surrounding ensemble of buildings represent the height of Polish Baroque and is one of Poland’s greatest national treasures. Confiscated by Poland’s post-war Communist government, Wilanów, seriously damaged by the Germans during WWII, was painstakingly renovated during the 1950s and early 1960s and opened its doors to the public in 1962. The first museum at Wilanów was opened in 1805 by the Palace’s owner at the time, Stanisław Kostka Potocki. The current museum, which takes up a substantial portion of the Palace’s astonishing interior, is a jaw dropping safari of extravagance and opulence, providing a remarkable insight into the life and culture of the former Polish ruling classes. Wander through room upon room of delights including some superb examples of traditional Polish coffin portraits, suits of armour, Etruscan vases, a room featuring magnificent frescoes uncovered during restoration work after the war, residential rooms, an exceedingly rare 18th-century glass grandfather clock and even a private chapel. With the aid of one of the museum’s English language audio guides it’s possible to spend a good couple of hours here. The Palace fills with schoolchildren during the week and tourists at the weekends, and there’s no best time to visit. You may also have to bite your lip and be patient if a tour group is occupying one of the rooms you particularly want to have a look at. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00, closed Tue. Admission 16/8zł. Sat free. Park and Orangery 5/3zł. Thu free. Guides for groups of 6-25 people admission plus 5zł.; for groups up to 5 people 135zł. Please book in advance.

For full contents of all our guides see: www.inyourpocket.com Other sights A stroll around the grounds at Wilanów is rewarded with more than just the pleasure of its individual parks and gardens. Among the many treats in store are the fabulous Poster Museum (see box), the domed, 18th-century St. Anne’s Church, and the large and imposing Neo-Gothic Potocki Mausoleum. A trip to the lake is rewarded with a glimpse of Enrico Marconi’s strange, Gothic-inspired pump room, and an adventure to the Park’s island reveals a monument to the Polish soldier, Captain Ksawery Burski, who served in the army of the Duchy of Warsaw and who gave his life at Wilanów fighting the Austrians at the Battle of Raszyn in 1809.

Restauracja Wilanów ul. Stanisława Kostki Potockiego 27, tel. 022 842 18 52. An extraordinary excursion back to the days of a planned Polish economy, this much talked about classy restaurant serves a range of international and Polish food in a blast to the past atmosphere. Despite what they say about the place there’s no ignoring the service. Breathtakingly snobby, expect to be treated like something the cat dragged in if you’re not dressed for the opera. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Villa Nuova ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 23, tel. 022 885 15 02, www. villanuova.com.pl. Memorable. Furnished with mahogany and chandeliers, Villa Nuova represents no less than culinary excellence. Private rooms, an impressive cellar and staff who make you feel special make this a perfect evening. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.

Poster Museum Housed inside the Palace’s former stables, the Poster Museum receives vast amounts of plaudits, which, if you judge the two large halls full of wonderful posters from all over the world on that merit alone, is truly deserving. But why the curators have chosen to put all the exhibits behind glass and light everything so carelessly remains a mystery. Thankfully, many of the best examples have been reproduced into postcards that can be bought from the museum shop. QOpen 10:00 - 15:30, Mon 12:00 - 15:30. Admission 9/5zł. SD Galeria ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel. 022 842 00 66, www.galeriasd.pl. This small collection of modern Polish art close to St. Anne’s Church includes paintings and sculptures by many of the country’s leading contemporary artists. Featuring some truly great pieces of art, most of the work on display is available for sale. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00.

Making a day of it The highlight of any trip to Wilanów is unquestionably a leisurely stroll through the sumptuous corridors of its Palace, but this is merely the tip of what is on closer inspection a much bigger iceberg.

Park & Gardens The 45 hectares that make up Wilanów Park grew over the centuries according to the particular fancies of its owners. The Park’s present form dates from the extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during the 1950s, overseen by the architect and historian Professor Gerard Ciołek (1909-1966). Made up of a series of individual gardens, the Park includes a two-level Baroque garden, a wonderful Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical English landscaped park and the socalled English-Chinese landscape park. There’s also a natural lake found behind the Palace, where boats can be hired for leisurely trips on the water. The upper level of the Baroque garden is currently the site of a series of archaeological digs, where several artefacts including ceramics dating from the 12th century have been discovered. The Baroque garden also serves as a splendid venue for outdoor classical music concerts during the summer season.

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Situated 25 kilometres west of Lublin, the spa town of Nałęczów is easily accessed by train, with approximately ten trains making the journey each day. Pencil in two hours for travel time, with first class tickets available for as little as 49.50zł. Tagged as ‘the garden city’, the origins of the town can be traced back to 1751 when Stanisław Małachowski purchased the land and named it in honour of his family coat of arms: Nałęcz. It was his ancestor, Antoni, who would later discover the healing waters on the property, hence changing the course of Nałęczów’s future path. Showing entrepreneurial spirit it wasn’t long before the Małachowski family decided to cash in on this discovery, and set about building bathhouses and accommodation. By 1880 the spa resort of Nałęczów was welcoming its first visitors, and it wasn’t long before it came to be regarded as the top spa retreat in the country. Attracting the celebrities of the day, eminent visitors included the pianist/prime minister Ignacy Paderewski and the writer Stefan Żeromski. Man of letters, Bolesław Prus, visited in 1882 in a bid to conquer agoraphobia and was so taken by the picturesque town he became a frequent visitor afterwards. The turn-of-the-century saw a series of alpine-style chalets constructed, with the most spectacular to be found lining ul. Lipowa and ul. Armatniej Góry. The Golden Age came to an abrupt halt with the outbreak of WWI, during which period the town was razed to the ground. The inter-war years promised to return the town to its glory days, with over 2,500 visitors flocking to the area each year, but the dawning of the second world war saw Nałęczów reduced to a smouldering rubble once more. The 1970s witnessed an aggressive expansion

of this backwater, with cardiology hospitals and sanatoriums added with abandon, though today the town has returned to its best, boasting an idyllic air that has made it a popular retreat with Poland’s elite. The Zdrojowy Park is the focal point of the town, with swans and squirrels adding to the picture book atmosphere, though it is the rococo-style Pałac Małachowskich that steals the show. Completed in 1775 the palace is where Prus penned his defining opus, Lalka, and today the structure houses a small museum honoring the man (Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Tickets. 2.50/3.50zł). Fans of Polish literature can peruse his manuscripts and letters. Head to the pavilion for a glass of crystal-clear water; rich in magnesium and calcium the waters are apparently the perfect tonic for anyone with a dodgy heart. An 18th century palmhouse is a favourite on the local postcards, and the park also contains two Greekstyle fountains named Faith and Love. A must-visit is the Żeromski Museum (Open 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Tue in April, in May just Monday. Tickets 3.50/2.50zł): a wooden Zakopane-style lodge, and currently home to the author’s skis and boxing gloves. Numerous guesthouses and hotels line the high streets, ranging from prim pensions like Samoniowka (ul. 1-go Maja 26, tel 081 501 47 47) to the unforgettable fairytale lodgings of Willa Uciecha (ul. 1-go Maja 22, tel. 081 718 79 60, www. willauciecha.com).

Train schedule From Nałęczów Dep. Arr. 5:45 7:50 6:40 8:45 8:40 10:46 10:40 12:45 12:40 14:50 14:40 16:45 16:40 18:55 19:40 21:45

City Warsaw (2) Warsaw(4) Warsaw Warsaw Warsaw Warsaw (3) Warsaw(1) Warsaw(2) Warsaw (1) except 9 April, Sat, Sun. (2) except Fri, Sun (3) except 7and 8 April (4) except 8 and 9 April

Warsaw In Your Pocket

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To Nałęczów Dep. Arr. 7:15 9:17 9:15 11:20 11:15 13:18 13:15 15:17 16:15 18:19 17:15 19:20 18:15 20:17 19:15 21:20 21:35 23:55

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ŁÓDŹ Łódź In Your Pocket Łódź may look like it’s pronounced Lodz, but it most cerŁÓDŹ tainly isn’t. Think of it as Woodge, and three hundred years ago a visit here would have produced the sight of little more than one man and his dog. In terms of age Łódź is one of the youngest cities in the country, and a direct product of the Industrial Revolution. And while Łódź cannot boast the twee charisma of Prague and Kraków a scratch of the surface rewards the intrepid traveller with a city stuffed with wacky stories, dark history and some of the countries finest after-dark venues – you’ll find them all inside our third issue of Łódź In Your Pocket; Poland’s first comprehensive English-language guide to the city. Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Streets Ahead

Europe’s longest street

There and Back

Tthe rickshaws of Łódź

N°3 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT) www.inyourpocket.com

saw many of Poland’s eminent artists and cultural institutes decamp to the nearest big city; that city was Łódż, and today the town can boast a rich cultural heritage, with Poland’s leading film school, one of the most important modern art galleries in Europe, and an exciting underground culture. Today Łódź is a city slowly rediscovering itself, growing in confidence and coming to terms with its patchy history. Overlooked by many visitors to Poland, this is a city full of hidden charms: from the awesome palaces that belonged to the hyper-rich industrialists who made the city, to Europe’s longest pedestrian street (Piotrkowksa) to the largest municipal park in Europe. You’ll find everything you need to know about the city in our print guide to Łódź, as well as our full content online at www.inyourpocket.com.

ISSN 1896-1169

Getting there Łódź lies 140km South West of Warsaw and was easily accessed by train - that was until repairs to improve the tracks began. When work finishes Łódź will be within an hours reach of Warsaw, for the time being though journey time depends on luck, and can sometimes take over three hours. If you’re travelling from the capital you’ll need to book a ticket running to Łódź Fabryczna train station. The city centre is directly across the road from the main entrance: take the underpass and carry on walking west and you’ll find yourself on the main street, ulica Piotrkowska, within ten minutes. For longer journeys taxis stand directly outside the main entrance, though travellers should only use cabs that are clearly marked.

Some basics Łódź first appeared in written records in 1332 under the name of Łodzia and remained little more than a rural backwater for the following centuries, with a population numbering just 800 as late as the 16th century. The birth of modern Łódź as we know it can be traced to 1820, when statesman, philosopher and writer Stanisław Staszic began a campaign to turn the Russian-controlled city into a centre of manufacturing. The first cotton mill was opened in 1825 and by 1839 the first steam-powered factory in Poland and Russia was officially christened. A massive influx of workers from as far afield as Portugal, England and France flooded the city, though the mainstay of the town’s population remained Poles, Germans and Jews. Within a matter of decades Łódź had grown into the biggest textile production centre in the Russian Empire, during which time vast fortunes were made and lost by the major industrialist families. By the outbreak of WWI the town stood out as one of the most densely populated cities on the planet with a population of approximately 13,000 people per square kilometre. But hard times were around the corner; the inter-war years signaled an end to the town’s Golden Age, and the loss of Russian and German economic markets led to strikes and civil unrest that were to become a feature of inter-war Łódź. Things were about to get worse: the outbreak of WWII saw the city annexed into The Third Reich. The following six years of occupation left the population decimated with 120,000 Poles killed, and an estimated 300,000 Jews perishing in what was to become known as the Litzmannstadt ghetto. Following the war, and with much of Warsaw in ruins, Łódź was used as Poland’s temporary capital until 1948. The wholesale war-time destruction of Warsaw also

Warsaw In Your Pocket

Manufaktura How many times have you heard a shopping centre call itself ‘More than a shopping centre?’ In the case of Manufaktura, for once the hyperbole is entirely justified. For this is indeed more than a shopping centre. In fact, we really shouldn’t be calling it a shopping centre at all. Covering a space of 150,000m2 Manufaktura does of course feature a mall with endless shopping opportunities, but that would not tell the full story. Manufaktura today is the result of Poland’s largest renovation project since the reconstruction of Warsaw’s Old Town in the 1950s. Originally a series of factories that were constructed in the latter part of the 19th century the restoration of the old factories quite simply has to be seen to be believed. Enter through the Poznański gate, where workers used to file through everyday on their way to the mills, and you’ll arrive at the projects ground zero: the 30,000m2 Rynek (main square). Featuring Europe’s longest fountain the square is the cultural hub, with restaurants, fitness club and IMAX cinema crowded around it. A full program of events is planned to keep things lively, including pop concerts, beer festival and big screen showings of sports events. With a catchment area of 1.8 million people in a 50km radius Manufaktura expect 15 million visitors in the first year alone. For the more languorous character two electric tramlines have also been added to ferry visitors from one end of the complex to the other. And in spite all of this Manufaktura remains very much a work in progress; further additions include the transformation of the showpiece Spinning Mill into a conference centre, office block and a four star hotel, as well as the addition of a huge modern art centre, children’s museum and technological museum.

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GETTING AROUND Arriving by bus Coaches arrive and depart either from the central train station or from Warszawa Zachodnia (Warsaw West). Zachodnia serves both as a bus and train station. There is an ATM in the main hall and a kantor to exchange money. Getting to town. Bus N°127, 130, 508, 517, 523, 605 and E5 all go to the centre. Taxis can cost from 15zł to 30zł so ask around.

Aura D-4, al. Jerozolimskie 144 (Warsaw Zachodnia - Bus Station), tel. 022 659 47 85, www.aura.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. In-Pol ul. Wandy 16, tel. 022 672 90 60. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Vealia Eurolines ul. Żurawia 26, tel. 022 621 34 69, www.eurolines.pl. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Arriving by car Pot holes, crumbling tarmac and fearless drivers. At best Polish roads, and drivers, are bad, but that’s part of the rich tapestry of life, we guess. We’ll let the statistics speak for themselves. Poland leads Europe when it comes to road fatalities. In Warsaw alone the year 2002 saw 27,102 motoring accidents, which resulted in a total of 2,301 injuries and 49 deaths.The speed limit in Warsaw is now 50km/hr. In other urban areas the limit is 60km/hr, outside urban areas 90km/ hr, dual carriageways 110km/hr and motorways 130km/hr. Seat belts must be worn at all times and it is illegal for drivers to use hand-held mobile phones. Following the letter of the law all cars should be equipped with a first aid kit, warning triangle, fire extinguisher, rear mud flaps and right and left hand outside mirrors. Flouting the rules will cost you 200zł (for using a mobile), 100zł (not wearing a seat belt) and up to 500zł for speeding. The legal limit for drink driving is 0.2% blood/alcohol level. Put simply, if you’re driving, don’t drink. Foreigners can drive on their national licenses for six months from the entry date on their passports. Carry your passport as well as driving license whenever you fancy going for a spin. After six months drivers must change to a Polish license. Drivers from Australia, New Zealand, UK, Ireland, US and Canada must take a written test before being issued with a Polish license. Be warned, the test is in Polish. For roadside assistance call tel. 981.

GETTING AROUND Marriott and the Sheraton have fixed price taxis (available to non-guests) and charge approximately 50zl respectively. MPT taxis stand outside and cost approximately 25zl to the centre. The bus to the city centre is N°175 and the stop is on the fourth island outside the terminal building. The city buses stop at the red bus shelters and Warsaw Central station is 16 stops from the airport. Buses run regularly between 04:51 and 22:51. After this there are two buses per hour (at night the N°611 bus runs to Warsaw Central). Tickets can be bought from the RUCH shop or from the machines outside (coin operated only). Remember to validate your ticket as soon as you get on board.

Car rental Avis ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. 022 650 48 72, www.avis.pl. Also on al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel) and ul. Łopuszańska 12a. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Hertz ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. 022 650 28 96, www.hertz.com.pl. Also on ul. Nowogrodzka 27. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.

Arriving by train Warszawa Centralna A/B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 54, tel. 022 94 36. The signs that greet you on the platform (peron) are a hindrance more than a help, and it’s easy to be caught in the labyrinth of subways. On arrival, whatever escalator you take, there will be a kantor in close reach to exchange money. Some of these are open 24hrs. The ticket hall is on the ground floor, and here’s where we can give you the good news. The days of ordering train tickets in fractured Polish are over. Now open by the Relay shop close to the arrivals/departure board is a newly opened office run by Polish rail (info line 022 94 36, www.intercity.pl). Open from 06:30-21:30, the multi-lingual staff here can search for the cheapest/easiest connection, sell you international and domestic tickets, and can help plan your trip for you. The services don’t stop there. They can organize hotel rooms, restaurant reservations, taxis and even flower delivery. The ticket hall has ATMs, a Tourist Information office (08:00 - 18:00), and you can now even buy train tickets from an automatic machine. The kiosks can sell you bus/tram tickets and phone cards. Getting to town: Officially sanctioned ELE taxis can be found outside the main entrance.

Budget ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. 022 650 40 62, www.budget.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.

WARSZAWA ul. Okopowa 47 tel.: +48 (0)22 636 63 93 fax: +48 (0)22 838 20 37 mobile: +48 (0)609 181 020 e-mail: [email protected] www.joka.com.pl

Arriving by plane Warsaw Okecie (a.k.a Fryderyk Chopin Airport) is a fully fledged international airport with a new terminal just added right next door. On arrival you will be deposited on the ground floor, to your left you will find left luggage and lost luggage. ATM machines can be found on the ground floor as well as numerous kantors (exchange offices) to exchange money. Tourist information can be found in the IT office right by the main exit (April 08:00 - 18:00, May 08:00 - 20:00). Orbis also have an information office close by. The RUCH shop on the ground floor sells stamps and phone cards. The domestic terminal can be found right next door and handles LOT flights across Poland. Although check in is 40 minutes before departure security checks often create delays, especially during peak hours. International budget flights (Sky Europe, Wizz etc) use the Etiuda terminal. The terminal is absolutely basic and your best bet for tourist info, car hire, taxis is to make the four minute walk to the international terminal. Those wanting refreshment or to log online should pop into the Courtyard by Marriott hotel directly across from the international terminal. Getting to town by taxi will cost from 20zł upwards. Hotel Sobieski,

Warsaw In Your Pocket

Avis makes car rental run smoothly from beginning to end... Just call:

AVIS Warsaw, Warsaw Airport ul. Zwirki i Wigury 1 Phone: +48 22 650 48 72

Hotel Marriott, al Jerozolimskie 65/79 Phone: +48 22 630 73 16 www.avis.pl

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GETTING AROUND Eur opcar ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airpor t), tel. 022 650 25 64, w w w. europcar.com.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.

Sixt ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. 022 650 20 31, www.sixt.pl. One of the world’s largest and oldest car rental companies offers a choice of solutions from short and long rental periods to holiday cars. There’s even a fleet of limousines if you’re interested. Vehicles range from Seats and middle-sized Peugeots to luxury Mercedes. Bonuses include GPS and Sixt cards. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.

Speed

al. Witosa 31/21a, tel. 0 609 029 928, www.speedcar. com.pl. Passenger cars for 5-7 people, limousines, vans and buses. From US$25/day. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Trust Rent a Car ul. Konstruktorska 4, tel. 022 843 05 80, www.trustrentacar.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.

Public Transport Warsaw has an extensive bus and tram system criss-crossing the city as well as a good, but very limited, metro system running from north to south. Over 1,200 buses operate in and around the city, and most run from between 05:00 and 23:00. After that night buses run on most routes twice every hour. All night buses display the number six, followed by a two digit number. ‘Fast buses’ (marked with red digits) skip the smaller stops. Tickets (all valid for use on metro, bus and tram) can be bought from all kiosks bearing the green and yellow RUCH logo, or anywhere with a sign reading Bilety. A

Warsaw In Your Pocket

GETTING AROUND

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In Your Pocket Mini Guides Aimed at travellers who don’t wish to carry around guidebooks In Your Pocket have produced a series of discreet fold-out maps to Warsaw, Kraków and Gdansk, with Wroclaw to be added in the future. Featuring hotel listings, essential sights, and key drinking and dining establishments our maps aim to highlight the very best the city has to offer. For your free copy of ask at the reception of your hotel in the relevant city.

single ticket is 2.40zł, one day passes 7.20, three day passes 12zł. Single journey tickets can in theory be bought straight from the driver for an extra 0.60zł, though most will refuse to sell you one after dark. Note that in winter the doors on trams and buses do not open automatically. Look for the button by the door. Once you’ve got a ticket you will need to validate it into one of the box-style kasowniks, thus validating the magnetic strip on the back. On the metro this must be done before you get on board. It is no longer neccessary to buy an extra ticket for animals or large pieces of luggage. Plain clothes ticket inspectors regularly stalk the lines, dishing out 120zł fines for those without valid tickets. For long-term residents then the Warszawska karta miejska represents the best value. Costing 66zł for a 30 day pass, or 166zł for a 90 day pass, you can pick one up from Metro Ratusz. When boarding tram, bus or metro simply wave the card in front of the kasownik and it will beep at you, displaying the expiry date. You can recharge the card at any Strefa machine – all of which speak accept coins and notes (up to 50zł), speak English and German and say thank you. Find them in all metro stations.

Download instant guides to Poland online: www.inyourpocket.com

Taxis The days when cash bells would ring whenever a cab driver would hear a foreign accent might have passed, but it’s still always better to ring ahead rather than just hailing a taxi in the street. In particular avoid drivers who hawk their services in the arrivals hall at the airport; we’ve heard plenty of horror stories.All the companies we list will usually have someone on their switchboard who can speak English. MPT, the state-run firm, can boast the most reliable reputation. But you won’t find many cheaper than Super Taxi. Find MPT taxis on the Marriott tower side of the central station; it’s the second row of cars. Tipping is not expected, but if your driver gets you from A to B without a detour through the countryside then by all means, feel free. Halo Taxi tel. 022 96 23 Merc Taxi tel. 022 677 77 77 MPT tel. 022 91 91 Sawa Taxi tel. 022 644 44 44 Super Taxi tel. 022 96 22

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MAIL & PHONES

GETTING AROUND Train schedule From Warsaw Dep. Arr 07:25 13:06 11:25 17:06 16:25 22:06 19:25 05:53 19:25 09:58 06:50 11:35 08:50 13:40 10:50 15:45 11:50 16:57 12:50 17:44 14:50 19:51 15:50 20:35 16:50 21:23 17:50 22:48 18:50 23:39 06:08 22:35 21:35 16:21 00:15 06:23 04:50 10:22 06:45 12:05 07:05 09:50 09:05 11:50 10:05 12:50 11:05 13:50 12:05 14:50 12:45 17:40 15:05 17:50 16:05 18:50 18:05 20:50 19:05 21:50 20:05 22:50

20:35 20:35 06:25 07:25 08:25 09:25 10:25 11:25 13:25 14:25 15:25 16:15 16:25 16:55 17:25 18:25 06:00 12:00 21:35 06:25 08:25 14:25 16:15 17:10 18:25

08:01 19:54 09:32 10:24 11:17 12:26 14:07 14:20 16:26 17:25 18:17 19:14 19:20 20:02 20:40 21:24 13:28 19:28 06:03 11:50 13:25 19:35 21:15 22:22 23:33

Destination BERLIN Ostbf. BERLIN Ostbf. (16) BERLIN Ostbf. BRATISLAVA (17) BUDAPEST GDYNIA (2) (18) GDYNIA (2) (18) GDYNIA GDYNIA (1) GDYNIA (19) GDYNIA (1) (4) GDYNIA (4) GDYNIA GDYNIA GDYNIA KYIV KYIV (4) KRAKÓW KRAKÓW KRAKÓW (9) KRAKÓW (9) KRAKÓW (1) (10) KRAKÓW (2) (11) KRAKÓW KRAKÓW (10) KRAKÓW (3) (12) KRAKÓW (3) KRAKÓW (1) KRAKÓW (13) KRAKÓW (4) KRAKÓW (5) KRAKÓW KRAKÓW KRAKÓW (4) MINSK (20) MOSCOW (21) (25)(10)(18) POZNAŃ (19)(26)(27) POZNAŃ (18)(10)(25) (25)(10)(18) POZNAŃ (27)(26)(19) POZNAŃ (18)(10)(25) POZNAŃ (19)(26)(27) POZNAŃ(29) (27) POZNAŃ POZNAŃ(27) (27)(26)(19) POZNAŃ (19)(26)(27) (28)(27)(5) POZNAŃ POZNAŃ (19)(27)(28) (28)(27) POZNAŃ (19)(27)(28) POZNAŃ (19) POZNAŃ VIENNA Sudbf VIENNA Sudbf VIENNA Sudbf (22) WROCŁAW (22) (22) WROCŁAW (24) WROCŁAW (13) (3) WROCŁAW (23) WROCŁAW (3) (13) WROCŁAW (3) (15) (15)

Train schedule Key To Warsaw Dep. Arr. 06:47 12:25 12:47 18:25 16:47 22:25 21:03 07:25 17:00 07:25 05:21 09:51 06:05 10:50 07:06 11:56 09:06 14:01 12:06 17:01 13:07 18:01 15:06 19:56 17:06 21:50 08:02 12:30 06:00 06:21 07:00 07:50 10:00 10:15 11:47 13:15 14:00 14:55 16:00 16:17 17:00 18:00 18:55 19:47 22:29 20:40 10:23 06:35 07:07 07:43 08:08 08:47 09:52 12:45 13:35 14:35 15:35 16:35 18:35 19:35

23:21 06:45 08:45 11:06 09:45 10:45 12:45 15:06 14:45 18:05 16:45 17:45 18:45 21:06 19:45 20:45 21:45 22:48 04:45 06:30 06:30 09:20 09:55 10:55 11:24 11:42 12:47 15:50 16:40 17:35 18:25 19:25 21:25 22:25

09:08 14:33 22:33 05:05 05:26 06:35 10:35 14:35 16:27

16:35 22:09 06:40 09:55 10:40 11:42 15:50 19:25 21:25

Vilnius train was cancelled because of low capacity. Instead there is a bus from Warszawa Centralna run by PKO Intercity. (30) 23:00 9:00 VILNIUS(31) 22:00 5:00 Trains to and from Gdynia stop in Gdańsk approximately 30min before and after Gdynia. For a full train schedule visit www.rozklad.pkp.pl

Warsaw In Your Pocket

(1) except 8 April (2) except 9 April (3) runs Mon-Fri, Sun except 8-9 April and 1-3 May (4) runs Mon-Fri, Sun except 8 April (5) runs Mon-Fri, Sun (6) runs Mon-Fri except 9 April, 1-3 May (7) runs Wed,Fri,Sun except 16-17 April (8) runs Thu,Tue,Sat except 15-16 April, From 17 April arrives in Kraków 14:00 (9) runs from Mon-Sat except 9 April (10) except 8-9 April (11) runs Mon-Fri, except 8 April and 1-3 May (12) runs Mon-Fri except 9, 31 April and 1, 3 May (13) runs Mon-Fri except 9, 30 April and 1-4 May (14) runs Mon-Sat except 9, 28 April and 30 May. (15) except 6-9, 21, 22 April (16) except 4, 6-9, 20-22 April (17) except 9-16 May (18) except Sun (19) runs Mon-Fri (20) runs until 25 May (21) runs until 26 May (22) runs from Mon-Sat except 9 April, and 2, 3 May (23) runs Sat only (24) runs Sun only (25) except 2, 3 May (26) except 7, 8, 9 April (27) except 1 - 5 May (28) except 7, 8 April (29) except 6 - 9 April (30) runs Mon, Wed, Fri (31) runs Tue, Thu, Sat

Airlines Aer Lingus C-4, al. Ujazdowskie 20, tel. 022 626 84 02, www.aerlingus.com. Aeroflot G-3, al. Jerozolimskie 29, tel. 022 621 16 11, www.aeroflot.com. Aerosvit Airlines A-3, al. Jana Pawła II 15, tel. 022 697 69 50, www.aerosvit.com. Air France C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 022 556 64 00, www.airfrance.pl. Alitalia C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 022 692 82 85, www.alitalia.it. American Airlines G-3, al. Ujazdowskie 20, tel. 022 625 30 02, www.aa.com. Austrian Airlines al. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 0 801 40 40 40, www.austrian.com. British Airways ul. Marszałkowska 76, tel. 00 800 441 15 92/022 529 90 00, www.ba.com. Centralwings, tel. 0 801 45 45 45, www.centralwings. com. easyJet, www.easyjet.com. KLM ul. Nowy Świat 64, tel. 022 556 64 44, www.klm. pl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. LOT (Polish Airlines) B-7, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 022 95 72, www.lot.com. Lufthansa ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, www.lufthansa.pl. Ryanair, tel. 00353 1 249 77 44, www.ryanair.com. SAS A-6, al. Jana Pawła II 29, tel. 022 850 05 00, www.scandinavian.net. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. SkyEurope, tel. 022 433 07 33, www.skyeurope. com. Wizz Air, tel. 022 351 94 99, www.wizzair.com.

International call cards Intracall ul. Grochowska 278, tel. 022 870 15 72/0 801 88 39 93, www.intracall.pl. 25 & 50zł call cards: 0.29zł for W. Europe and US

Intrafon ul. Grochowska 278/13, tel. 022 870 15 72, www.intrafon.pl. Call the US and Europe from as little as 0,29zł per min.

Telepin ul. Długa 44/50, tel. 022 331 42 38, www. telepin.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Internet cafes Casablanca C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 4/6, tel. 022 828 14 47, www.casablanca.com.pl. A popular student bar Casablanca is one of the few places where you can drink lager while checking your mail. Chess competitions, karaoke nights and other events also organized. 9zł per hour. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (9zł/h). Cyber Cafe ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (in Courtyard by Marriott), tel. 022 650 01 72, www.courtyard.com/wawcy. Poland’s best internet cafe. Seating sixty people the Courtyard Cyber Cafe offers high-speed wireless access, as well as a menu that puts most Warsaw cafes to shame. 25zł per hour. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. 35zł/h. Silver Zone D-5, ul. Puławska 17, tel. 022 852 88 88, www.silverscreen.com.pl. High speed access. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. 5zł/h. Simple B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 99/101, tel. 022 628 31 90, www.simpleinternetcafe.com. 150 flatscreen monitors offering bullet speed internet access. Open 24hrs a day, log onto the computers via a chip card – if you don’t use all your credits then you can simply return at a later date and your remaining credits will still be valid. Q Open 24hrs. (1-4zł/h).

Post EMS courier service can be used from any post office in town. The central Post Office is open 24 hours, 7 days a week and is listed below.Postal ratesThe going price for a non-priority letter under 50g:Poland 1.35zł Europe 2.40zł & The rest of the world 2.50zł

Central Post Office (Urząd Pocztowy Warszawa 1) A-3, ul. Świętokrzyska 31/33, tel. 022 505 33 16, www.poczta-polska.pl. Q 24hrs. DHL D-3, ul. Grzybowska 77, tel. 022 661 50 12, www. dhl.com.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 20:30, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Express Mail Ser vice (EMS Pocz tex) D-3, ul.Towarowa 5 (Warszawa Centralna Railway Station), tel. 022 557 95 08, www.pocztex.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. FedEx A-4, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Hotel Marriott), tel. 022 630 55 80, www.fedex.com/pl. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. TNT ul. Piłsudskiego 119, Marki, tel. 022 771 71 71, www.tnt.com.pl. Q Open 08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. UPS ul. Prądzyńskiego 1/3, tel. 022 534 08 00, www. ups-poland.com. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. 24hr call centre.

Telephone Netia Telecom ul. Poleczki 13, tel. 022 711 87 87, www.netia.pl.

TP S.A. A-3, ul. Twarda 18, tel. 022 93 93, www. tpsa.pl.

Mobile phones Mobile phones have ten digits and all start with either 05, 06 or 09. When calling from abroad, dial Poland’s international access code (48) followed by the mobile number dropping the initial 0. The easiest way for foreigners to lay their hands on a mobile is to buy a ‘pay as you go’, non-subscription phone (slightly more expensive). Plus GSM (Simplus), Centertel (POP) and Era GSM (Tak Tak) will all be able to sell you one.

Era GSM ul. Puławska 15, tel. 022 413 44 44, www.era. pl. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Orange F-4, pl. Konstytucji 6, tel. 022 628 84 52, www. orange.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.

Plus GSM E-3, al. Jerozolimskie 148, (Reduta), tel. 022 882 02 20, www.plusgsm.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun

10:00 - 20:00.

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MAIL & PHONES Books & Paper

Wi-fi access If you’re travelling with the laptop then you’ll find a growing number of internet hotspots in and around central Warsaw. All three of Poland’s mobile networks offer Wi-Fi connection, and you will be able to go online in most of their major retail outlets. W Throughout our guide we have highlighted those establishments (hotels, cafés, restaurants and bars) which offer wireless free internet connection. This covers both free access, where you are likely to need a network key and password from the bar/reception, and paid access where you will have to buy a card. Most places will have cards available for sale. A typical choice is the cards necessary for Orange hotspots. You can pay 9zł for a straight 2 hours

connection, 19zł which allows you 2 hours connection over a period of 2 months or 29zł for a 24-hour card. In all cases you will be given a scratch card which carries a number. Open an explorer window and follow the instructions.

Country codes Australia Austria Belgium Bulgaria Canada Czech Rep. Denmark France

61 43 32 359 1 420 45 33

Germany 49 Greece 30 Hungary 36 Ireland 353 Israel 972 Italy 39 Japan 81 Netherlands 31

Poland Romania Russia Spain Sweden UK Ukraine USA

48 40 7 34 46 44 380 1

American Bookstore E-4, ul. Koszykowa 55, tel. 022 234 56 37. Everything from architecture and history to stacks of Harry Potter and Lonely Planet. An excellent selection of translated Polish classics and a heavy choice of Jewish-related literature. English classics are available for as little as 10zł. The best bookshop in town. Also at ul. Nowy Świat 61 and ul. Powsińska 31 (Sadyba Best Mall).ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów). QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. EMPiK Various locations including the flagship store on (B-4), ul. Nowy Świat 15/17, tel. 022 627 06 50, www. empik.com. Hefty selection of international magazines and newspapers. Also loads of music, perfumes, video games, photo services etc. Q Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.

Traffic Club ul. Bracka 25 (corner of Chmielna), tel. 022 692 14 50. www. traffic-club.pl. Also at Piaseczno, C.H. Fashion House, ul. Puławska 42e, tel. 22 735 54 70. Multi-level store selling English-language books, DVDs, CDs and foreign language press. Full range of In Your Pocket’s also available. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.

Clothes Baumler ul. Bema 57a, tel. 022 837 44 74, www. baeumler.pl. Ties, shirts, suits and other formal attire for men. Labels include Boss, Zegna and the like. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Telephone Changes

Camaieu al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), tel. 022 331 21 51. Also on al. Jerozolimskie 148 (Reduta), ul. Mszczonowska 3 (Centrum Janki) and ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów). QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Claire.dk ul. Okopowa 58/72 (Klif), tel. 022 531 46 60. Also on ul. Marszałkowska 68/70, ul. Nowy Świat 58 and ul. Wołowska (Galeria Mokotów). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Deni Cler C-4, pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 022 627 34 45. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Diesel ul. Witosa 31, (CH Panorama), tel. 022 640 14 73, www.dieselshop.pl. Also on ul. Grochowska 241 QOpen 12:00 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.

Ermenegildo Zegna C-4, pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 022 584 70 00. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sun. Escada C-4, pl. Trzech Krzyży 16, tel. 022 331 91 33. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Esprit B-4, ul. Górczewska 124, (Wola Park), tel. 022 533 41 47. Also on ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) and ul. Marszałkowska 104/122. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Forget-me-not C-3/4, ul. Chmielna 21/3, tel. 022 826 66 06.QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Gino Rossi B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 74, tel. 022 622 75 93. Also on ul. ul. Ostrobramska 75 C (Promeda), ul. Okopowa 58/72 (Klif), and ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

TPSA, Poland’s telephone provider, started 2006 by changing the way numbers are dialled. In brief: If you’re phoning from land line to land line it is now necessary to include the local area code, even if you are phoning from within the city. Therefore the prefix 022 must be used for all Warsaw numbers. This also applies to four digit call centre numbers. We have changed all our listings accordingly. Nothing has changed when phoning from mobile phones to land lines (Era and Orange networks still use the Warsaw prefix 22, while Plus use 022). We use local numbers in all listings hence the appearance of 10-digit numbers. In the case of our advertisers you will find one of two forms being used. Either the local 10-digit number or the international dialling form of the number. Please note that it is not possible to use the international form of the number when phoning from a land line, though it is possible to use that form when calling from a mobile telephone.

Polish city codes Gdańsk Katowice Koszalin Kraków Lublin

0-58 0-32 0-94 0-12 0-81

Łódź Poznań Szczecin Warsaw Wrocław

0-42 0-61 0-91 0-22 0-71

www.inyourpocket.com Warsaw In Your Pocket

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SHOPPING H&M B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 022 551 73 40, www.hm.com. Also on ul. Ostrobramska 75c (Promenada), Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), Górczewska 124 (Wola Park) QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Hugo Boss pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, tel. 022 627 24 00. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Lacoste C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 4, tel. 022 628 25 37, www.lacoste.com. Also ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

LFC ul. Grochowska 241a, Gianfranco Ferre, Martin Margiela, Dsquared, Diesel for LFC, D2 by Vicini.

Flora E-1, ul. Dzika 19/23, tel. 022 635 61 62, www. kwiaciarniaflora.com.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.

Kwiaciarnia B-4, corner of ul. Marszałkowska and ul. Żurawia, tel. 022 629 34 52, www.kwiaciarnia87.com. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Kwiaciarnia C-4, ul. Nowy Świat 19, tel. 022 826 44 58, www.kwiaciarnia-nowyswiat.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.

Gifts & Souvenirs Artis Galeria Sztuki Użytkowej ul. Emilii Plater 47, tel. 022 620 59 30, www.artisgleria.pl. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Bazarnik - Nowy Świat ul. Nowy Świat 66, tel. 022 826 43 34, www.bazarnik.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat

10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Lilla Moda C-4, ul. Żurawia 2, tel. 022 621 57 74, www.lilla.com.pl. Also on ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów). Brands include D&G, Versace, Liu Jo, Exte, GF Ferre, Just Cavalli, Versus, C’N’C, Philosophy, Iceberg, Trussardi. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Lord B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 87, tel. 022 625 34 96, www.lord.waw.pl. Elegant clothes for men and women, made-to-measure shirts, bags. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Mango ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 022 541 34 92, www.mango.com. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Maya Cormier C-4, ul. Mokotowska 61 (corner of ul. Wilcza), tel. 022 626 06 55.pl. Exclusive and stylish maternity and baby clothes such as Armani Junior. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Moschino B-3, ul. Marszałkowska 140. Natalia Jaroszewska C-3/4, ul. Chmielna 27/31, www.jaroszewska.moda.com.pl. Cocktail, evening and wedding dresses, as well as casual wear courtesy of one of Poland’s top designers. Odzieżowe Pole G-4, ul. Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 022 622 48 67. Nationally famous Polish designer gear for women. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Peek & Cloppenburg ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów). Also on ul. Powsińska 31 (Sadyba Best Mall). Penny Black ul. Okopowa 58/72, CH Klif, tel. 022 531 45 37, www.pennyblack.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00 Timberland CH Arkadia (al. Jana Pawła II 82), Galeria Mokotów (ul. Wołoska 12), CH Promenada (ul. Ostrobramska 75c).

van Graaf ul. Zlota 59 (Złote Tarasy) tel. 022 222 07 30 www.vangraaf.pl. Sophisticated fashion for men and women with professional staff in the brand new Złote Tarasy centre.QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

Flowers Aga Flowers D-1, ul. Okopowa 58/72 (Klif Shopping Centre), tel. 022 531 45 13. Also on ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

Warsaw In Your Pocket

Cepelia B-4, ul. Marszałkowska 99/101, tel. 022 628 77 57, www.cepelia.pl. Also at pl. Konstytucji 5, ul. Francuska 49, ul. Krucza 23, ul. Chmielna 8. Your first stop for tacky souveniers. Amongst the tat also find tradtional Polish handicrafts: table cloths, ceramics, glass etc. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Perfume & Beauty Douglas C-3, ul. Chmielna 1/3, tel. 022 692 88 10, www.douglas.pl. Also on ul. Górczewska 124 (Wola Park)

Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

Perfumeria Francuska ul. Puławska 427, tel. 022 529 76 98. Also on ul. Jubilerska 1/3 (King Cross). Perfumeria Noory al. Witosa 31 (Panorama), tel. 022 640-11-56. Roxana al. Jerozolimskie 42, tel. 022 827 00 19, www. roxana-perfumeria.pl. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Sephora al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), tel. 022 331 52 05, www.sephora.pl. Also on ul. Jubilerska 1/3 (Geant), ul. Targowa 72 (Centrum Wileńska), ul. Ostrobramska 75c (Promenada), ul. Mszczonowska 3 (Centrum Janki), Nowy Świat 15/17, ul. Marszałkowska 104/122 (Galeria Centrum), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), ul. Powsińska 31 (Sadyba Best Mall). QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

Shoes Apia ul. Okopowa 58/72 (Klif), tel. 022 531 47 21, www.apia.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Bagatt C-4, ul. Mokotowska 42/44, tel. 022 621 91 44, www.bagatt.it. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Deichmann ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), tel. 022 852 31 86, www.deichmann.pl. Also on ul. Targowa 72 (Centrum Wileńska), ul. Górczewska 124 (Wola Park), ul. Stalowa (Tesco), pl. PIłsudskiego 1, Marki (M1) QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

Specialty shops Aroma Bar C-4, ul. Mokotowska 67, tel. 022 621 51 48. QOpen 10:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Inaba B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 84/86, tel. 022 622 59 55, www.inaba.com.pl. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Monti Cigars C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Bristol hotel), tel. 022 551 18 51. Also at al. Jerozolimskie 179 (Blue City), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów). Warsaw’s top cigar retailer. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00.

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Porthos ul. Marszałkowska 9/15, tel. 022 825 09 07, www.porthos.com.pl. Hats! And lots of them. A winter lifeline. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Quadrat ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 022 627 01 61, www. quadrat.pl. Designer jewellery.

Antiques & Art Galleries Antyki G-2, ul. Gałczyńskiego 3, tel. 022 826 32 57. Antique store and commission sales. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Art Gallery ul. Piwna 12/14, tel. 022 635 29 38. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Desa C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 51, tel. 022 827 47 60, www. desa.pl. A wide selection of antique porcelain, glass statues as well as some furniture and paintings. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Prima Porta Antiquities C-3, ul. Nowy Świat 2 (enter from ul.Ksiazeca), tel. 0 601 934 052, www.primaportaantiquities.com. One to explore. Amongst numerous artefacts find sculptures and other articles dating back to the Chinese Han and Ming dynastys as well as antiques from ancient Rome, Greece, Egypt and the Far East. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Children Endo G-4, ul. Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 022 629 30 65. Top and Polish clothes, books and teddy bears for kids. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Niebieskie Migdały G-4, ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 022 629 11 92, www.niebieskiemigdaly.com. Furniture and toys for babies and toddlers. Upmarket. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

SHOPPING Smyk C-4, ul. Krucza 50, tel. 022 551 43 00, www. smyk.com. Also on ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), ul. Targowa 72 (Cen trum Wileńska), ul. Górczewska 124 (Wola Park) and ul. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia). Childrens depar tment store packed wi th clothes and toys. Q Open 09:30 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.

Watches & Jewellery Ambra ul. Piwna 17/19, tel. 022 635 82 97. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Apart C-4, ul. Jerozolimskie 29, tel. 022 621 90 28, www.apart.pl. Also on ul. Targowa 72 (Centrum Wileńska), ul. Głębocka 15 (Centrum Targówek) and Marki, ul. Piłsudskiego 1 (M 1). Brands include Claude Bernard, Edox, Pierre Laniert, Ted Lapidus. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. W.Kruk C-4, al. Jerozolimskie 11/19, tel. 022 625 68 88, w w w.wkruk.pl. Also on ul. Okopowa 58/72 (Klif), ul. Ostrobramska 75 C (Promenada), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), pl. Konsty tucji 6 (F-4). Polish jewellery and watches from various international brand names including Empotio Armani, Rolex, Zenith, IWC, Omega, Tag Heuer, Maurice Lacroix, Longines, Tissot, Roamer, Anne klein Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

24h shops Maribo ul. Ogrodowa 7, tel. 022 654 25 60. Non stop Lech ul. Grójecka 22/24, tel. 022 659 40 40/022 822 08 12.

Rarytas Nocny pl. Hallera 8, tel. 022 818 25 66.

Shopping malls Arkadia D-1, al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 022 331 34 00, w w w.arkadia. com.pl. If you can’t find it in Arkadia, you probabl y never will. Covering a total area of 287 000 m2 Arkadia stands out as the biggest shopping mall in Central Europe. The five floor leviathan contains everything you need to survive Warsaw, so it’s little wonder we know of people who spend their lives stalking around its corridors; approximately 45,000 – 70,000 people visit each day. Completed after three years of work fashion stores include Lacoste, Gant, Peek & Cloppenburg and Tommy Hilfiger, as well as ubiquitous high street chains like Zara, Espirit and Kappahl. A giant Saturn store takes care of all your electronic needs: from DVDs to sound systems. Carrefour takes a large chunk of the ground floor, though most expats are making a beeline for the first Mark & Spencers food department in the country. If you can’t find what you’re after in there then head to Kuchnia I Świat. The shop is tiny but is home to everything from Marmite and Pirri Pirri sauce to Weetabix, Cadburys Chocolate and Dr Pepper. English language books are available from American Bookstore, and foreign press from EMPiK. Entertainment comes in the form of a 15 screen multiplex, and a wide variety of food options: Ooh Sushi! and Louisiana being the culinary highlights. The cherry on the cake appears to be the addition of a microbrewery, due to open in mid October (check By Night). Connected by 15 tram lines and 20 bus routes, and with a parking capacity of 4,000. QOpen 10:00 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

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Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 022 541 41 41, www.galeriamokotow.pl. At 150,000m2 Galeria Mokotów has been eclipsed in size by Arkadia and Blue City, but remains the mall of choice for a large number of expats. Clothes wise stores include Clavin Klein, Lacoste, Versace, Trussardi, Peek & Cloppenburg, as well as several high street chains like Mango, Diesel, River Island and Claire.dk. The entertainment center on the top floor includes bowling, food court and Cinema City multiplex.QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. AL Promenada ul. Ostrobramska 75c, tel. 022 611 39 52, www.promenada.com. On Warsaw’s east side, but well worth the visit if you’re a clothes horse: Max Mara, CK, Lagerfeld, Iceberg, Burberry, Donna Karen, Escada etc. Totalling an area of 121,000m2 Promenada was originally opened in 1996, making it somewhat of a granddaddy in Warsaw’s mall wars. Also on site and Alma Hypermarket, Senator delicatessen, Greenway health store and Spiżarnia store selling traditional Polish foods. In the way of entertainment there’s a bowling and multiplex cinema to enjoy, having first impressed your date with your ice skating skills on their glass domed ice rink. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A

Blue City D-4, al. Jerozolimskie 179, tel. 022 824 45 55, www.bluecity.pl. Poland’s first mega mall, and dubbed the ‘city within a city’. In the center of it all, a 26 metre fountain positioned under a giant glass dome. Covering an area of 218 000m2, the US$120 million project is home to 224 retail units. Trading since March 2004 the choice of shops includes specialist food stores like Piotr I Pawel (full of expat goodies), Asian House, La Passion Du Vin and Piwiarnia Gambrynus. American Bookstore and EMPiK sell English books and press respectively, and the ‘Home City’ section has 30 stores containing everything you need for house and home. Now, the fun stuff. Also housed in the mall is a skate park and go-kart track, and for younger mall rats the ‘Inca playarea’; a mini-funfair which apparently is meant to evoke the spirit of Treasure Island. Private medical center (Enel med) also onsite, and plans to build a hotel in the pipeline. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

Warsaw In Your Pocket

Złote Tarasy A/B-4, ul. Złota 59, tel. 022 222 22 00, www.zlotetarasy.pl. Warsaw’s monstrous train station now has a new neighbour – the sparkling Złote Tarasy complex. Officially opened on February 7, 2007 by Warsaw mayor, Hanna Gronkiewicz Waltz, the first afternoon alone saw 64,000 people file through the doors. The 250 million Euro project includes 225,000m2 of office, retail and entertainment space, with underground parking for 1,600 cars. Projected to draw a million visitors each month the complex signals a bold shift away from the out-of-town malls found in Warsaw, and familiar stores will include NEXT, Marks & Spencers, Aldo, Poland’s first Body Shop, Hugo Boss, Van Graf clothes store and EMPiK. Leisure visitors can visit Poland’s first Hard Rock Cafe as well an express version of the Warsaw Tortilla Factory, a branch of Wayne’s Coffee and a Burger King due to open in the near future. Designed by Jerde Partnership International (whose founder, Jon Adams Jerde, designed the Olympic Village for LA 1984), the central showpiece is a 10,000m glass dome, fitted with a special mechanism to both filter sunrays and to stop snow from building up. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. April - May 2007

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DIRECTORY 24-hour pharmacies Apteka ul. Puławska 39, tel. 022 849 37 57. Apteka ul. Żeromskiego 13, tel. 022 834 58 04, www. juventa.pl.

Apteka H-1, ul. Lubelska 1 (Warszawa Wschodnia train station), tel. 022 818 65 13, www.juventa.pl. Apteka Beata E-2, al. Solidarności 149, tel. 022 620 08 18. Apteka Grabowskiego A-4, al. Jerozolimskie 54 (Central Station), tel. 022 825 69 86.

Corstjens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna-Piaseczno, tel. 022 737 72 00, [email protected], www. corstjens.com. Worldwide removal services, excellent storage facilities and relocations to and within Europe, Office and local moves also handled. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Business facilities Hilton Warsaw Hotel & Convention Centre

Officials Australia B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 11, tel. 022 521 34 44.

Austria H-5, ul. Gagarina 34, tel. 022 841 00 81. Belarus ul. Wiertnicza 58, tel. 022 742 07 10. Belgium B-2, ul. Senatorska 34, tel. 022 551 28 00.

Canada D-4, ul. Matejki 1/5, tel. 022 584 31 00. China B-1, ul. Bonifraterska 1, tel. 022 831 38 36. Czech Republic G-4, al. Róż 12, tel. 022 525 18 50.

Denmark F-5, ul. Rakowiecka 19, tel. 022 565 29 00.

Estonia F-6, ul. Karwińska 1, tel. 022 881 18

E-3, ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 022 356 55 55, www. warsaw.hilton.com. Holiday Inn A-3, ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 022 697 39 99, www.holiday-inn.com/warsawpoland. Hotel Jan III Sobieski E-3, pl. A. Zawiszy 1, tel. 022 579 10 00, www.sobieski.com.pl. Hotel Mercure Fryderyk Chopin A-3, al. Jana Pawła II 22, tel. 022 620 02 01, www.accorhotel.com. Marriott Hotel A-4, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 022 630 63 06, www.marriott.com. Novotel Warszawa Centrum A/B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 24/26, tel. 022 621 02 71, www.orbis.pl. Sheraton Warsaw Hotel G-3, ul. B. Prusa 2, tel. 022 450 61 00, www.sheraton.com. Sofitel Victoria Warsaw B-3, ul. Królewska 11, tel.

10.

Dentists

Finland G-4, ul. Chopina 4/8, tel. 022 598 95

Anglo-American Corporation E-1, ul. Dzika 19/23,

00.

France G-4, ul. Piękna 1, tel. 022 529 30 00. Germany H-3, ul. Dąbrowiecka 30, tel. 022 584 17 00.

Greece G-3, ul. Górnośląska 35, tel. 022 622 94 60.

Hungary G-4, ul. Chopina 2, tel. 022 628 44 51. Ireland ul. Mysia 5, tel. 022 849 66 33. Israel F-4, ul. Krzywickiego 24, tel. 022 597 05

tel. 022 635 31 49, www.anam.pl.

Austria Dent Center G-3, ul. Żelazna 54, tel. 022 654 21 16, www.austriadent.pl. Eurodental F-4, ul. Nowowiejska 37, tel. 022 875 00 88, www.eurodental.com.pl. Hansa-Med G-4, ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 022 212 81 38, www.hansamed.com.pl.

00.

Ex-pat organisations

Italy F-2, pl. J.H. Dąbrowskiego 6, tel. 022 826

Alcoholics Anonymous A-4, ul. Św. Barbary (inside the

34 71.

library of the Świętej Barbary Church), www.aa-europe. net. Meetings for English speakers are on Mon - Fri at 18:30, Sat 11:00. Contact Jim at tel. 0506 449 534 or Zack at tel. 022 635 44 87 Curry Club Mostly Brits but other nationalities welcome. They meet every Wednesday at around 19:30 in the Tandoor Palace. For more info call Howard Floyd at tel. 022 816 22 88. Frogs & Co. www.frogsco.pl. Expat rugby club. For more details get in touch with Christian Gaunt - club president - at 0 502 19 87 82.

Japan E-2, ul. Szwoleżerów 8, tel. 022 696 50 00.

Latvia ul. Aldony 19, tel. 022 617 43 89. Lithuania G-3, al. Ujazdowskie 12, tel. 022 635 97 94.

Netherlands ul. Kawalerii 10, tel. 022 559 12 00.

New Zealand al. Ujazdowskie 51, tel. 022 521 05 00.

Norway G-4, ul. Chopina 2a, tel. 022 696 40 30. Portugal ul. Francuska 37, tel. 022 511 10 10. Republic of Korea H-4, ul. Szwoleżerów 6, tel.

Hash House Harriers Join others who enjoy walking/running in the forest, followed by a beer. Meet in front of the Marriott Hotel at 14:00 alternate Saturdays. Contact John Miller at tel. 022 831 78 49/0607 07 79 97, warsawhhh@ poczta.onet.pl. NS2H3 A.k.a. ‘The not so serious Hash House Harriers’. They organise runs, walks and cycle rides for the entire family in a rural area close to Warsaw. Meet approximately every 3 weeks on Sunday, meal and drinks afterwards. Contact Tom or Prew Bowtell (tel. 022 757 67 65, [email protected]). SWEA www.swea.org. The association of Swedish and Swedish-speaking women abroad. Cultural, educational and recreational activities throughout the year. For more info contact [email protected].

Fitness clubs & Gyms Biorelax ul. Mickiewicza 72, tel. 0 501 08 80 75, www. biorelax.waw.pl. Diamond Pilates Studio ul. Powsińska 106 (entrance from ul.Gołkowska near Sadyba Best Mall), tel. 0509 93 67 43/022 331 44 95, www.diamondstudio.pl. Fitness Club Jerozolimskie B-4, al. Jerozolimskie 91, tel. 022 622 53 99, www.fitness-jerozolimskie.pl. Holmes Place E-3, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 022 313 12 22. At 3,800m2 this is Warsaw’s largest fitness centre and includes a 25 metre pool, cafe and latest in hi-tech equipment. Just opened so look out for promotional membership offers. Leisure Club C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Le Royal Méridien Bristol Hotel), tel. 022 551 18 05, www.warsaw.lemeridien.com. Oasis Club G-5, ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Regency), tel. 022 851 05 63, www.cluboasis.pl. Health club and spad the offers top-class beauty treatments and products. Sheraton Fitness G-3, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Hotel), tel. 022 450 61 00, www.fitness.com.pl. World Class Health Academy A-4, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 022 630 51 16, www. worldclass.pl.

Hairdressers Cutting House ul. Wiejska 20, tel. 022 622 63 62, www.cuttinghouse.pl. Exclusive hairdressers with English speaking staff. Franck Provost G-5, ul. Puławska 25a, tel. 022 646 46 47, www.franckprovost.pl. Jean Louis David C-2, ul. Moliera 8, tel. 022 826 46 12, www.jld.com.pl. Maciej Wróblewski ul. Widok 8, tel. 022 690 67 89, www.maciejwroblewski.pl. One of the top hair studios in Poland.

022 559 29 00. Russia G-5, ul. Belwederska 49, tel. 022 621 34 53. Slovakia ul. Litewska 6, tel. 022 525 81 10. South Africa F-4, ul. Koszykowa 54, tel. 022 625 62 28. Spain G-4, ul. Myśliwiecka 4, tel. 022 622 42 50. Sweden G-5, ul. Bagatela 3, tel. 022 640 89 00. Ukraine G-4, al. Szucha 7, tel. 022 622 47 97. United Kingdom G-4, al. Róż 1, tel. 022 311 00 00. USA G-4, al. Ujazdowskie 29/31, tel. 022 625 14 01.

Warsaw In Your Pocket

105

April - May 2007

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STREET REGISTER

International schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202, Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. 022 702 85 00, www.asw. waw.pl. British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 022 842 32 81, www.thebritishschool.pl. Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupéry ul. Nobla 16, tel. 022 616 14 99, www.saint-exupery.pl. International American School ul. Dembego 18, tel. 022 649 14 40, www.ias.edu.pl.

Private clinics Alfa - Lek B-4, ul. Nowy Świat 58a (enter from ul. Ordynacka), tel. 022 826 45 02, www.alfa.lek.com.pl. Centrum Medyczne Puławska ul. Puławska 33, Piaseczno, tel. 022 716 53 49, www.cmpulawska.com. pl. The not-quite laying on of hands. Damian Hospital ul. Wałbrzyska 46, tel. 022 566 22 22, www.damian.com.pl. English-speaking doctors and home visits available 24hrs a day. Also at ul. Foksal 3/5. Euromed E-3, al. Jerozolimskie 123 (Reform Plaza), tel. 022 529 70 00, www.euromed.pl. Falck ul. Sapierzyńska 10, tel. 022 536 97 41, www. falck.pl. also at ul. Mariańska 1. Gromada Medica pl. Powstańców Warszawy 2, tel. 022 582 94 55, www.medica.gromada.pl. J.J. Capricorn C-1, ul. Podwale 11, tel. 022 831 86 69, www.jjcapricorn.com.pl. LIM Medical Center A-4, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 022 458 70 00, www.cmlim.pl. Lux-Med ul. Racławicka 132 b, tel. 022 332 28 88, www.luxmed.pl. Medicover D-4, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. 18, tel. 022 95 96, www.medicover.com.

Spa & Beauty Celebrity Beauty & Spa A-3, Rondo ONZ 1, tel. 022 335 77 44, www.celebrity.com.pl. 400m2 right in the city centre offering a vast number of treatments from head to toe. High standards and moderate prices guaranteed. Domisol Salt Cave ul. Smolna 36/7, tel. 022 826 61 96, www.domisol.pl. Elite Laser Therapy Center A-3, ul. Pereca 2, tel. 022 652 34 62, www.elite.waw.pl. Holmes Place E-3, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 022 313 12 22. At 3,800m2 this is Warsaw’s largest fitness centre and includes a 25 metre pool, cafe and latest in hi-tech equipment. Just opened so look out for promotional membership offers. Le Spa ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 022 622 94 28, www. lespa.pl. This is an authorized Lancome beauty parlour. In addition to spa and beauty treatments they have emergency services: the ‘last minute’ treatment is a facial and make up job fixed within an hour, or you can top up your tan in less than an hour with the ‘before party’ package. Nail Club D-1, al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia Shopping Centre), tel. 022 331 65 62. Manicure 40-80zł, pedicure 70-130zł, gel 170-240zł, acrylic 150-220zł. RiverView Wellness Centre A-4, ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 022 328 86 40, www.riverview. com.pl. Terra Spa ul. Mokotowska 57, tel. 022 622 14 17, www.terraspa.pl.

www.inyourpocket.com Warsaw In Your Pocket

Real estate Centur y 21 Atlantis Real E state B - 3, ul. Swietokrzyska 32, tel. 022 654 21 21, www.c21atlantis. pl. Estate agents with an office in central Warsaw with offers ranging from flats to large developments. Immopol ul. Bartycka 24/3, tel. 022 651 04 75, www. immopol.com.pl. Mamdom, www.mamdom.com. Mamdom.com is Polands largest Anglo-Polish Property Portal listing thousands of real estate offers from estate agents, private individuals, government organisations and companies. Every single offer has at least one image and the descriptions are all translated into English by a native speaker, not a computer. You can choose to deal directly with the sellers (who often speak English) or make use of interpretors, drivers, and other services. Mamdom charges no commission on any property purchases. Mansion & House al. 3 Maja 2/35, tel. 022 621 15 15, www.mansionhouse.pl. The Polish Property Company ul. Grójecka 40/55, tel. 022 668 58 36, www.thepolishpropertycompany. com. The Polish Property Company will organise fully escorted tours and property viewings and explain the buying process in plain English. Although based in Warsaw, they offer their services nationwide. Unigroup ul. Marszałkowska 83 lok. 1, tel. 022 628 81 85, www.uni-group.pl. Commercial and residential rentals in all quarters of the city.

Relocation companies AGS International Movers ul. Krasnowolska 21/27b, tel. 022 644 85 53, www.ags-worldwide-movers.com. Allied Pickfords ul. Łopuszańska 38, tel. 022 846 70 03, www.alliedpickfords.pl. Corstjens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna-Piaseczno, tel. 022 737 72 00, info@ corstjens.pl, www.corstjens.com. Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 022 878 35 35, www.expressrelocations.com. Mamdom www.mamdom.com. Mamdom.com is Poland’s largest Anglo-Polish Property Portal. In addition to listing thousands of real estate offers in English they also provide a number of extra services including help with relocating to Poland. A native Pole fluent in English is at your disposal for 48 hours to help you orientate to your new surroundings. Help includes checking tenancy agreements, organising utilities such as electricity, gas, internet access and television and getting to know your local area. Move One Relocations ul. Koszykowa 54, tel. 022 630 81 60, www.moveone.info. PRO Relocation ul. Kaniowska 41, tel. 022 869 04 40, www.prorelo.com. Universal Express ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 022 878 35 00, www.uexgroup.com.

1 Sierpnia D-6/7 29 Listopada H-4 Aleje Ujazdowskie G-3/5 Andersa, gen. A-1/2 (E-1/2) Anielewicza A-2 (D/E-1/2) Archiwalna D-5 Armii Ludowej, al. F/H-4 Bagatela G-4/5 Bagno B-3 Banachago D/E-5 Bankowy, pl. A-2 (F-2) Barbary, św. F-3 Barokowa B-2 Barona D-2 Batorego E/F-5 Bednarska B/C-2 Bellottiego D-2 Belwederska G-5/6 Biała A-3 (E-2) Białobrzeska D-4/5 Bielańska B-2 (F-2) Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. D-4/5 Bobrowskiego D-5 Boduena B-3 Bohaterów Getta A-2 (E/F-1) Bohdanowicza D-6 Boleść B-1 Bonifraterska A/B-1 Bracka C-4 Browarna C-2/3 (G-2) Brylowska D-3 Brzeska H-1 Brzozowa B-1 Bugaj B-1/2 Bytnara F-6/7 Canaletta B-2 Celna B-1/2 Chałubińskiego A/B-4 (F-3/4) Chełmska H-6 Chłodna A-3 (D/E-2) Chmielna A-4, B/C-3/4 Chocimska G-5 Chodkiewicza E-5/6 Chopina G-4 Ciasna B-1 Ciepła A-3 (E-2) Cicha C-3 Corazziego B-2 Czackiego B-3 (F-2) Czerniakowska G/H-3 Czerska H-5/6 Czeska H-2 Dąbrowskiego, pl. B-3 (F/G-6) Dawna B-1/2 Defilad, pl. B-4 (F-3) Dickensa D-5 Długa A/B-1/2 (F-1) Długosza D-2 Dobra C-2/3 (G-1/2) Dobrzańskiego A-3 Dolna G-6 Drewniana C-3 Dubois A-1 (E-1) Dzielna A-2 (D/E-1/2) Dzika D/E-1 Elektoralna A-2/3 (E-2) Emilii Plater A/B-3/4 (F-3) Esperanto E-1/2 Etiudy Rewolucyjnej E-7 Filtrowa E-4 Floriańska G-1 Foksal C-3 (G-3) Franciszkańska A/B-1 Francuska H-2 Frascati C-4 Fredry B-2 (F-2) Freta B-1 (F-1) Furmańska C-2 (F/G-2) Gagarina G-5 Gałczyńskiego C-3 Gamerskiego B-2 Geodetów D-5 Gęsta C-2

Gibalskiego D-2 Górnośląska H-3 Górska H-5/6 Górskiego B/C-3 Goszczyńskiego F/G-6 Goworka G-5 Graniczna B-3 Grodzka C-2 Grójecka D/E-4/6 Grzybowska A-3 (E/F-2/3) Grzybowski, pl. A/B-3 Grzymały D-4 Hoża B/C-4 (F/G-3) Hynka D-7 Idzikowskiego G/H-6/7 Inflancka A-1 Iwicka H-5 Jaktorowska D-3 Jana Pawła II, al. A/B-2/4 Jana Sobieskiego G/H-5/6 Jasielska D-6 Jasna B-3 Jazdów G-4 Jerozolimskie, Al. A/C-3/4 Joliot-Curie F-7 Kacza D-2 Kaliska D-4 Kanonia B-2 Kapitulna B-2 Karasia C-3 Karmelicka A-2 (E-1/2) Karolkowa D-2/3 Karowa C-2 (F/G-2) Kasprzaka D-3 Kazimierzowska F-5 Kępna H-1 Kilińskiego B-1/2 Klonowa G-5 Kłopotowskiego G-1 Kolberga F-7 Kolejowa D/E-3/4 Konduktorska G-6 Konopnickiej C-4 Konstytucji, pl. F-4 Konwiktorska A/B-1 Kopernika C-3 Kopińska D-4 Korotyńskiego D-6 Kościelna B-1 (E/F-1) Koszykowa E/G-4 Kotlarska D/E-2/3 Kozia B-2 Koźla B-1 (F-1) Krakowskie Przedmieście B/C-2/3 Krasickiego F/G-7 Krasińskich, pl. B-2 (F-1) Krasnołęcka H-5 Kredytowa B-3 (F-2) Krochmalna A-3 (E-2) Królewska B-3 (F-2) Krucza C-4 (F/G-3) Kruczkowskiego C-3 (G-2) Krywulta C-3 Krzywe Koło B-1 Krzywickiego E-4 Książęca C-4 (G-3) Kubusia Puchatka C-3 Kusocińskiego G/H-4 Kwiatowa F-5 Lądowa G-5 Łazienkowska H-4 Lenartowicza F/G-6/7 Lennona G-4 Leszczyńska C-3 Leszno D-2 Leszowa E/F-4/5 Lewartowskiego A-1/2 (E-1) Lindleya A-4 (E-3/4) Lipowa C-2 Litewska G-4 Lubelska H-1 Łucka A-3 (E-3) Ludna G/H-3

Ludowa G-6 Lwowska F-4 Madalińskiego FG-5/6 Majewskiego D-5 Małachowskiego, pl. B-3 Malczewskiego F/G-6 Mariańska A-3 Mariensztat C-2 Markowska H-1 Marszałkowska B-2/4 (F-2/4) Matejki C-4 Mazowiecka B-3 (F-2) Miączyńska E-6/7 Miedziana A-4 (E-3) Miła A-1 (D/E-1) Miłobędzka E-6 Miodowa B-2 (F-1) Mireckiego D-2 Mirowski, pl. A-3 (E-2) Młynarska D-2 Mokotowska C-4 (G-3/4) Mołdawska D-6 Moliera B-2 (F-2) Moniuszki B-3 Mostowa B-1 (F-1) Muranowska A-1 (E-1) Mysia C-4 Myśliwiecka G/H-4 Na Rozdrożu, pl. G-4 Na Skarpie, al. G-3 Nabielaka G-5 Nalewki A-1/2 Narbutta F/G-5 Narutowicza, pl. D-4 Nehru H-5 Niecała B-2 Niemcewicza D/E-4 Niepodległości, al. F/G-4 Niska A-1 Niska D/E-1 Niżyńskiego Pasaż B-3 Nowiniarska B-1 Nowogrodzka A/C-4 (E/F-3) Nowolipie A-2 (E-2) Nowolipki A-2 (D/E-1/2) Nowowiejska E/G-4 Nowy Świat C-3/4 (G-2/3) Oboźna C-3 Obozowa D-2 Oczki E/F-3/4 Odolańska F/G-6 Odyńca F/G-6 Ogrodowa A-3 (E-2) Okólnik C-3 Okopowa 1/2-D Okrąg G/H-3 Okrzei G-1 Oleandrów F/G-4 Olimpijska E-6 Olkuska G-6 Olszewska G-5 Olszowa G-1 Ondraszka E-4/5 Opolski, pl. D-2 Ordynacka C-3 (G-2) Orla A-2/3 (E-2) Orłowicza G-3 Ossolińskich B-2 Padewska G-6 Panieńska G-1 Pańska A-3/4 (E-3) Parkowa G-5 Pasteura D-4/5 Paszyna D-1 Pawia A-2 (D/E-2, E-1) Pawińskiego D-5/6 Pereca A-3 (E-3) Piaseczyńska G-6 Piekarska B-2 Piękna F/G-4 Piłsudskiego, marsz. pl. B-3 (F-2) Piwarskiego G/H-6 Piwna B-2

Płatowcowa E-6 Platynowa E-3 Podchorążych G/H-5 Podwale B-1/2 (F-1) Pokorna A-1 Polna F/G-4 Poniatowskiego, ks. Al. H-2 Powązkowska D-1 Powstańców Warszawy, pl. B-3 Poznańska B-4 (F-3) Promenada G-5/6 Prosta A-4 (D/E-3) Próżna B-3 Prusa C-4 Pruszkowska D-6 Przechodnia A-2/3 Przemyska D-5 Przyokopowa 3-D Przyrynek B-1 Ptasia A/B-3 (F-2) Puławska G-5/7 Pułku Baszta F-7 Pytlasińskiego G-6 Racławicka D/E-6 Radna C-3 Rajców B-1 Rakowiecka E/G-5 Raszyńska E-4 Rejtana G-5 Rokitnicka E-5 Rostafińskich E-5 Róż, al. G-4 Różana F/G-5/6 Rozbrat G-3 Rycerska B-2 Rynek Nowego Miasta B-1 (F-1) Rynek Starego Miasta B-1/2 Rysia B-3 Sandomierska G-5 Sanguszki B-1 Sanocka D-5/6 Sapieżyńska A/B-1 Sasanki D-7 Senatorska B-2 (F-1/2) Schillera B-2 (F-1) Siedmiogrodzka D-3 Sielecka H-5/6 Siemieńskiego D-5 Sienkiewicza B-3 Sienna A-4 (E-3) Skaryszewska H-1 Skarżyńskiego D-5 Skierniewicka D-3 Skorochód D-5/6 Sławińska D-3/4 Śliska A-4 Słoneczna G-5 Słupecka D-4 Smocza D/E-1/2 Smolna C-3/4 Sokola G/H-1/2 Solec G/H-2/3 Solidarności, al. A/C-1/3 Sosnowa A-4 Spacerowa G-5 Spartańska E-7 Spiska D/E-4 Srebrna F-3 Stara B-1 Starościńska F/G-5 Starynkiewicza, pl. E-3 Staszica D-2 Stawki A-1 (D/E-1) Stefana Batorego E/F-5 Stępińska H-5/6 Sulkiewicza G-5 Świętojańska B-2 Świętojerska A/B-1/2 (E/F-1) Świętokrzyska B/C-3 (E/G-2/3) Szara G-3 Szarych Szeregów D-3 Szczęśliwicka D-4 Szczygla C-3

Szkolna B-3 Szpitalna B-3/4 Szucha, al. G-4 Szwoleżerów H-4 Tagore’a F-6 Tamka C-3 (G-2) Targowa G/H-1 Teatralny, pl. B-2 (F-2) Tłomackie A/B-2 Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza B-2/3 Topiel C-3 Towarowa D/E-2/3 Traugutta B/C-3 Trębacka B-2 Trojdena, ks. D/E-5 Trzech Krzyży, pl. C-4 (G-3) Tuwima C-3 Twarda A-3/4 (E-3) Tyniecka G-6/7 Ujazdowskie, Al. C-4 Unii Lubelskiej, pl. G-4/5 Ursynowska F/G-6 Wał Miedzeszyński H-2/3 Walecznych H-2 Waliców A-3 (E-2/3) Wałowa A-1/2 (E-1) Warecka B/C-3 (F-2) Waryńskiego 4/5 Wąski Dunaj B-2 Wawelska D/F-4 Widok B-4 Wiecha B-3/4 Wiejska C-4 (G-3) Wierzbowa B-2 (F-2) Wiktorska F/G-6 Wilanowska H-3 Wilcza B/C-4 (F/G-3/4) Wileński pl. G-1 Willowa G-5 Winnicka D-5 Wioślarska H-3 Wiślana C-2 Wiślicka D-5/6 Wiśniowa F/G-5, F/G-6 Witosa, al. H-6/7 Wodna B-1 Wójtowska B-1 Wolność D-2 Wołoska E/F-6/7 Wolska D-3 Woronicza E/G-7 Wronia E-2/3 Wspólna A/C-4 (F-3) Wybrzeże Gdańskie B/C-1/2 Wybrzeże Helskie C-1 (G-1) Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie C-2 Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie G-1/2 Wybrzeże Szczecińskie C-1/2 Wybrzeże Szczecińskie G-1/2 Ząbkowska H-1 Zajęcza C-3 (G-2) Zakroczymska B-1 Zamenhofa A-1/2 (E-1) Zamkowy, pl. B-2 (F-1) Zamoyskiego H-1 Zapiecek B-2 Zawiszy, pl. E-3 Zbawiciela, pl. F-4 Zbierska G/H-5/6 Żelazna A-3/4 (E-2/3) Żelaznej Bramy, pl. A/B-3 (F-2) Zgoda B-3/4 Zieleniecka, al. H-1/2 Zielna B-3 Zimna A-3 Złota B-3, A/B-4 (E/F-3) Zoli G-4 Żurawia B/C-4 (F/G-3) Żwirki i Wigury D/E-4/7 Żytnia D-2

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